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Cheez2158
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

okay i am curious about the temps my bike is operating at and have a few questions. a little background first. i bought the bike used when i first got it i went thru all the fluids that were supposedly serviced at my local buell hd dealer.(i wouldnt take a bike there if i was paid) anyway the coolant wasnt even in the overfill so i flushed the system bled and rode i saw temps of 170-195 mind you ambient was cooler. anyway i was riding last week and developed a radiator leak another long story. after getting rad fixed at very low expense i put in new coolant and bled . i rode with an old friend yesterday (he rides a road king at less than desireable speeds) we rode 280 miles or so and temps ranged from 184 on open road to 197 on open road depending on speed and wind direction but got to 217 in traffic ambient was 89 is this ok or is something wrong like i need to replace the rad?
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Syonyk
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may have some air still in the system, but an ambient temp of 90F with coolant at 217 isn't that abnormal with the stock ECU.

Do you have the stock ECU? It runs the bike a LOT hotter than the race ECU...
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Cheez2158
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

im running ebr race ecm for jardine rt 5 bike runs great just hi temps at stop lights it goes down as soon as im moving just concerned i just checked for air smooth whirl pool look and no bubbles wondering if i need a reflash on ecm have no history on it other than its there
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Timebandit
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my experience has been that at midrange RPM at highway speeds the stock ECM will deliver coolant temps that are roughly 100*F above true environmental ambient temps. (not ambient temp on the cluster, which is more of an intake temp than environmental abmient).

if you run hotter, i would burp the radiator.
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Cheez2158
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks time bandit but I've got the race ecm for my exhaust just wondering if I should replace repaired rad. Reflash ecm( have no idea if its current) or just keep on ridin just don't want to damage.bike.
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Timebandit
Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The information I provided has value if you know how to interpret the data. Race ECMs run the bike cooler.
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Boogiman1981
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Speaking of which I think I need to burp mine. Been running a bit hot. Even with remap.
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Ratgin
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cheez..

these bike run hot as there norm.

Warm days on back roads i run in the 180s but in traffic ive seen 221

Burn your legs hot threw leather.
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Cheez2158
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Ratgin I thought all was well just new to juicers. First warm day just makin sure all was normal
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your temperatures are high, but normal. You should normally see 170-190 as long as you aren't in traffic, just like you were seeing before you had your leak.
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Boogiman1981
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just burped mine again. No time to really ride but there was some air in there.
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Reducati
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how do you burp the cooling system?...in laymans terms! thanks
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Cheez2158
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There a good procedure in the april archives under rad flush.
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Reducati
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

searched...is this it?
Yea, there is a procedure:

BLEEDING COOLANT
1. Allow the engine to cool.
2. See Figure 1-55. Remove the radiator cap and wrap the
filler neck with a shop towel to contain spilled coolant.
3. Fill the filler neck with coolant. Use only GENUINE
HARLEY-DAVIDSON EXTENDED LIFE ANTIFREEZE &
COOLANT (Part No. 99822-02).
NOTE
Reving the engine will draw more air into the system. If reved,
shut off the engine and restart the bleeding.
4. Start the engine and run at an idle.
NOTE
To bleed air from the system, the thermostat must be open.
The thermostat opens at 165° F (73.9° C).
5. As air bubbles up through the filler neck add coolant to
maintain the coolant level at the bottom of the filler neck.
6. Continue until no air bubbles are escaping the filler neck.
7. With the cap off, allow the engine to cool.
8. Top off the filler neck with coolant as necessary.
9. Install the filler cap.
10. Top off the overflow bottle
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a) I believe the system only takes 3 qts
b) if the fans come on pretty good bet the thermostat is open
c) ever watch a pot boil? - as the coolant gets hot it expands - and if you let the engine run too long ( and it gets hot ) the coolant will expand out of the radiators
d)start off with the over flow bottle at the correct "normal" level of coolant...chk it again after the engine has cooled off...as the engine and coolant gets cold - it shrinks and pulls liquid in from the overflow...( don't start off with a low to empty overflow bottle...it'll suck wind)- chk the overflow bottle's level after a couple of rides...don't forget!
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Raceautobody
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Vacuume fill

http://www.sears.com/uview-uv-550500-airlift-ii-co oling-system/p-SPM222409582P?currentProductTitle=u view%2duv%2d550500%2dairlift%2dii%2dcooling%2dsyst em&partNumber=SPM222409582P&storeId=10153&isSEOCan onURL=true&blockType=G5&blockNo=5&PRODUCT_TITLE_BR AND=uview%2duv%2d550500%2dairlift%2dii%2dcooling%2 dsystem&catalogId=12605&catgroupId=SPM222409582P&p rdNo=5&pageInd=product&i_cntr=1337978642621
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