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Nobuell
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ordered and received a new Barker Exhaust, EBR ECM and new rotor nut. Borrowed a crank locking tool from a friend and plan on installing the new nut this weekend. The loctite 272 and activator 7649 will arrive in the morning. Plan on dumping the oil, installing a new filter and taking out the screen to clean.

Any other things to look at while I am in that neck of the woods?

The bike has only has about 1900 miles now. The dealer I purchased from said the 600 mile service was performed however, I am not sure what kind of oil is in there from the original owner. Best to change to be safe and reset the clock.
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Timebandit
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oiling rotor!
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Nobuell
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Time,

My bike is an 08. I thought the oiling rotor was for 2009 and 2010.
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Timebandit
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

they did do the oiling rotor mod on some of the low-output charging sytem kits. my understanding is that they can do the oiling rotor mod for 08 rotors if you ask them to. it's like going to your favorite restaurant and ordering something that's not on the menu.

an oiling rotor will make your stator run cooler. the only downside is that they don't have an exchange service for your model year, so you'd have to wait for your own rotor to be done. might want to do the upgrade in the off season.
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Nobuell
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will put it on my winter list.

I finished removing the stock pipe and installed the EBR ECM. Tomorrow I will tackle the rotor nut. I borrowed a 400 lbft torque wrench from work. It does not look like to bad of a job. I did pull the right pod and found that the over flow canister was empty. The radiator was full so it was a good thing I checked.

One thing I discovered, EBR did not send the startup procedure for the new ECM. Does anybody have the directions or do I need to contact EBR?

Thanks

Tim
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Baf
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the oiling rotor really necessary on the 08 system though? If you're going to go to that expense/hassle, why not swap in an 09 stator at the same time, and gain actual benefit from it?
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Timebandit
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cooling extends the life of all electronic components. It doesn't matter if it's an 08 or an 09 stator, both will have their service life extended beyond the normal failure point if oil cooling is utilized. The bike's oiling system was designed to provide forced oil cooling of the stator. It seems foolish not to use it if it's available.

People like to pretend that the 08 stators are totally reliable and will never fail. That's wishful thinking. We have no evidence that they will last forever. What we do know is that 08 stators haven't failed yet. That doesn't mean they will never fail.


(Message edited by timebandit on May 18, 2012)
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Musclecargod
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I remember correctly the start up procedure, is install ECM and let run at idle for 10 minutes to calibrate IAC. I'm sure someone will chime in that knows for sure.
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Muscle,

That is how I did my XT when I replaced the ECM. I assumed it would be the same. I also assume that I need to do a manual TPS reset prior to idling for ten minuets.
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I lost the stator on my XT at about 30K miles. Not bad mileage wise except if you are in the middle of no where on a trip. I might consider the oiling rotor after the riding season for added reliability.

The higher output stator is not that big of an issue for me. My 1125R is my play bike. If it is cold and nasty, I will take the XT. Heated grips, and lots of electric gear.
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the stator cover off. Good thing I purchased a spare gasket because the old one is torn.

I need to get a socket to remove the nut in the morning. The one I have is to shallow.

The worst part of the whole thing is the wire conduit that the stator wires run through. Bending to release the sensor and wires was a PITA. It does not look like it can be easily detached from the top so it is a matter of bending it out of the way. Did I miss something? Getting the retainer together appears to be difficult.
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Timebandit
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you tear the gasket or did it come that way with the used bike? IME they tend to tear at the rubber grommet at the top, because they use RTV to seal the grommet into the ignition cover, and they always seem to spill some onto the gasket. The result is that when you go to pull off the cover, you have to pull like hell to overcome the magnet, and you don't even feel the paper gasket being torn where it adheres up top.

I'm not sure what retainer you're referring to. What are you trying to do? Replace the stator or just the rotor nut? If you're just replacing the rotor nut, you don't need to mess with any of the stator wires under the seat. Just drape a towel on the bike and rotate the ignition cover toward your right (rear of bike) and hang it out of the way on a bungee. No need to mess with any stator wires.

You can buy a 32mm deep hex impact socket at Menards on Indy Blvd for about $14.
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Time

I am replacing the nut only. The gasket tore at the rubber grommet.

I was talking about the black plastic conduit that the stator wires run through.

Tim
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Timebandit
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've never pulled the wires through from up top if I wasn't replacing a stator.

Even if you're only doing a rotor, the manual tells you to release the stator/vreg connector and to push the stator wires down from up top to create slack. You don't have to do that if you're not replacing a stator, you should have enough slack in the harness already. Just remove the CKP sensor and the bolts on the ignition cover, and rotate the cover toward the back of the bike. There's enough slack in the wires to hang it out of the way on a bungee while you work.

Don't forget to check the battery disconnect.
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Craigsmoney
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I read the instructions for the race ecm, it was just to reset the tps:

Turn on key, make sure the kill switch is on run.

rotate to full throttle, hold for one second then release so it snaps shut. wait one sec

repeat 2 more times then turn off ignition and wait for at least 2 seconds then you can turn on the bike.

It said nothing about letting it idle for 10 min, but I don't think that is a bad Idea. I know when you do stuff like that with cars you have to drive around for a while before the computer relearns.

I hope this helps, and good luck.

Oh, why are you replacing the rotor nut?
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Trbulnt
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the pleasure of having Michael Richter from EBR install my Race ECM and it was as simple as plug in, reset TPS and go. He stated that I may receive an error until everything gets used to the new ECM, which I never did. Have fun!
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Father_of_an_era
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, what Craig said. I did it that way and it was smooth sailing. Never had an issue and its been over 2 years now.
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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2012 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finished the rotor nut change out, installed the new Barker and reassembled everything.

I lined the inside of the rotor with 1/4" silicone rubber to protect it from the heat gun exposure. After heating the nut, it was barely warm. The nut would not budge without the heat and did come loose with some work after heating.

Tightening the nut with the 400 left torque wrench was easy. It was slow going only because I am not familiar with this bike.

This morning I will do the TPS reset and go for a ride. By the way, The Barker with the 1" quite core sounds great.

Thanks for all of the help.

Tim
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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2012 - 07:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Craigsmoney

I replaced the rotor nut due to the nut loosening issue that have occurred. Better safe than sorry.
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