| Author | Message | ||
     J_copeland |
Last Saturday I was going on a group ride. I slabbed it down the highway about 15 miles and everything looked good. I pull off and the bike quits,and then nothing,just a little click when I hit the starter button. Pulled her into Arby's and I let it sit for about 5 minutes and it fired right up. Now, this happen about a year and a half ago with no problems since. I should also mention that I rode for 6+ hours after this happen with no problems even when I stopped for gas and to BS. Voltage never dropped below 12.9 and was usually around 14.1 the whole day. 1700 miles on original stator and harness. | ||
| S21125r |
Any codes in the cluster? Anything else electrical acting goofy? When it was in the "dead" condition did it appear that lights and indicators working as expected and fuel pump cycled? When you heard the click did it sound like a relay click or more like a start solenoid click? First choices would be to check + and - battery cables followed by chassis to batter ground strap. After that I think you would want to check the 2 chassis ground points. Looks like the manual shows a ground point that services the front half the bike (headlight, ignition switch, etc) and the second ground for the rear half,(rear lights, start solenoid, VR, etc) Only other failure mode I can think of the ignition switch itself - I know there a few guys on here that have had the guts of the ignition switch go bad because the pig tail is stressed too much by the fairing stay. But IIRC correctly that failure was light out nothing on. | ||
| Syonyk |
I know there a few guys on here that have had the guts of the ignition switch go bad because the pig tail is stressed too much by the fairing stay. I'm one of them, and this sounds familiar... My way of diagnosing this was to figure out that when I swept the bars to full lock, the bike would cut out. It had pulled a wire apart internally, and there was enough tension at full lock to cause it to separate. Try that - if turning the bars all the way one way or the other causes it to cut out, it's most likely the ignition switch. The good news is that it's fairly easy to fix with a soldering iron (and, preferably, a file - to reduce the tension in the future). I'd also look at the grounds. There's a fairly important one up in the front somewhere, and of course check the battery terminals and the grounds back there. | ||
| J_copeland |
Good places to check out ! Thanks! |
