| Author | Message | ||
     Kruizen |
I installed a 19 radial cylinder on the clutch, bled it, clutch switch disconcected now have a couple of questions: 1. when the bike is off, pull in the clutch with the bike in gear and it won't roll freely? I can feel the slave/cylinder moving when I pull the clutch and have my hand on the puck. normal/not normal 2. with bike running in neutral, pull in the clutch, shift into gear. bike doesn't jump and I can release the clutch and the bike will start to take off all normal. 3. with bike running in gear with clutch pulled, it rev's upto approx 3000rpm and stays there. I do have a modified ecm(non E br), i've found previous posts about this happening with the clutch switch disconnected. this might be my way to reduce engine braking, but wanted to just correct the deceleration correction in the eeprom. haven't ridden it yet, just did the couple of tests in the drive/garage. Thanks for input -Eric edit: weird I don't remember putting the red smiley in the title?? (Message edited by kruizen on May 01, 2012) | ||
| Froggy |
Not sure what to say regarding issue 1, but for the rest you can put the bike in diagnostic mode (hold both buttons on the dash, turn key on), one of the things under live data is the clutch state. It should switch from 0 to 1 as you squeeze or release the lever. If it does not change, your switch is not connected or is malfunctioning. | ||
| Kruizen |
No clutch switch, i installed a Brembo style master cylinder. Going to take it for a short ride now that I have it all put back together. Just took it for a short ride: clutch feels great, when I got back into the garage it would roll in gear with the clutch pulled. Still felt like it was dragging a little, so I probably have to bleed it a little more. I will give a write up on the cylinders and install in the previous thread started about them. (Message edited by kruizen on May 01, 2012) | ||
| Stirz007 |
If in gear, but clutch pulled in, the engine will run at a high idle. It should run at a lower idle if in neutral. (Controlled by neutral switch, not clutch switch) | ||
| Kruizen |
Yeah, and I realized that it was also running cold idle which is normally higher. | ||
| General_tso |
Kruizen I recently installed a Brembo 16 RCS and have the same engagement issue but not the idle issue. EBR-ECM installed. Rode it at the track this past Sat and Sun and the one annoying issue I experienced is that it is a little difficult to find neutral. Other than that it performed normally. I'm thinking the 16 may not be large enough so I reached out to the company I purchased it from and asked them to reconfirm the application with Brembo. Definitely interested to learn if your issues go away after you bleed the cylinder. | ||
| General_tso |
Kruizen - I spoke with the Brembo distributor who spoke to EBR and advised that the 19 is the correct Master. So I have a 19 on the way to replace my 16. Now that you've put some time on the Master have you noticed any improvement? | ||
| Kruizen |
Yes, rode today felt great. Probably still have a little air in there somewhere, but much better. Very consistent feel in the release, pull is about the same maybe a little lighter, might just be the change in the fulcrum and lever length. Watch overfilling the resevior. | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
Kruizen - I use a ZX14 (Nissin) radial clutch master, and it does exactly as you describe, except the clutch switch is connected. After a start-up and in gear, it's great; just the right pull-tension for me; much better than stock. (both stock masters are identical to those on the old 1000cc Kawasaki Concours and many other Kawasaki bikes... also on Triumphs) Old-school axial lumps. My ZX10 radial brake master was also a very nice upgrade. | ||
| Kruizen |
I did the 19 on the Brake side also. Just waiting on the new pads to get the full feeling of how it's going to feel. |
