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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through February 19, 2012 » 3 bearing rear axle « Previous Next »

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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I already know the answer to this question, but, doesn't the three bearing rear axle work with the two bearing rear wheels also?
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 3 bearing axle works fine with the 2 bearing wheel. In fact if you tried to order a new 2 bearing axle, they will send you the 3 bearing axle instead.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good to know. I need to replace my rear axle.

Thanks.
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Dirty_john
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Strange, I have both a three bearing rear wheel and axle and a two bearing wheel and axle, I will compare these at the weekend when I get home but from memory the tapered sections of the axles are different lengths, may be nothing wrong here given three v two bearings.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 02:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes the tapered sections are a different to accommodate the additional size and number of bearing sets, but it works fine for the older wheels.



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Pmjolly
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the replies. I thought this was the case.
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Timebandit
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

froggy, which is which?
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Smoke4ndmears
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i would guess the top one is the 3 bearing due to its extra bearing surface length.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, the new one is anodized black. I am replacing mine because it is pitted. Mine has the same cruddy white junk forming as the one in the picture, but it is worse. I hope the anodizing stops all the corrosion.
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Sportster_mann
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2010 CR with the 3 bearing rear wheel and updated rear axle.

The coating didn't stop my axle from seizing to the bearings ...

... it had to be removed under warranty by a dealer ...



... just thought you ought to know.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 04:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How did the bearings seize? Did they fail all together, or did you discover this when trying to take the axle out? Just curious.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always put Loctite Anti-Seize on my axle every time I re-install. Comes right out every time. I'll bet most dealers won't do this and just stick a dry axle in there. Or worse, they may wipe the axle clean before re-insterting. It seems like the right way to do it until you read the Service Manual.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I live in Colorado, High Desert in geological terms.
Not much corrosion of any kind, but I always coat my axles with a thin layer of never-seize too.
No axle or bearing problems on a 2003 Firebolt(20k miles and gone to bro) a 2008 1125R(27k miles) and a 2009 XB12X(25k miles).

Z
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The corrosion I got in my rear axle was inside the hollow tube but only AFTER I fitted those nylon crash protector bushings from American Sport Bike. I fitted those for 4k miles, commuted on the bike, got rained on a few times but only for short bursts. After 4k miles, I removed the bushings from the axle (to replace the tires) and was surprised to see lots of corrosion on the inside of the axle tube. I mean it was bad! I'm scratching my head on this one!
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like water got in but not out
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Sportster_mann
Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I discovered that the axle was seized when I had to remove the wheel as the tire had a puncture, it had only been on the road for a couple of weeks and had less than 500 miles on it.

I was told that the axles were anodised to help prevent seizures ...
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