| Author | Message | ||
     Believer |
I'm about to buy apex 3" risers for my 1125CR. Do you have any feedback about them? http://www.apexmfg.com/3-inch-apex-riser-clip-on I BELIEVE SIZE SHOULD BE 55mm? Am I right? Does the bar fit to our stock levers? So why am I doing this: -I want to lower forks in clamps, but my bar is on my way. I will lower my forks for about 1,5" - DO YOU THINK THIS IS STILL SAFE? (I hope the low clamps won't hit the front fender when I hit the hole on the road). HOW MUCH TRAVEL DO CR FORKS HAVE? p.s.: I need to lower the whole bike because I have short legs! MAYBE ANY GOOD IDEA TO ALSO LOWER THE BACK END? | ||
| Kicka666 |
Beleiver are you running the Fat bars or the clubmans? You have to take into account throttle cable lengths & clutch/front brake line lengths when fitting different bars. Lowering the forks into the clamps will affect the bikes handling considerably. You could take some pre-load off the rear spring but thats about it for lowering the rear. | ||
| Believer |
my CR is 2010, so no clubmans, but stock "high" bars. The geometry almost stays the same, so there should be no problems in handling. I already lowered about 0,5" (as low as it can go with stock bars). | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
You absolutely want to lower the back of the bike a comparable amount to the front. Lowering the front a large amount (1.5" is HUGE) will make a big negative difference in the bike's handling. | ||
| Believer |
OK, so my handling will go bad... My question is still, will it be safe to go that low and not to hit the fender? How much travel do CR forks have? And my other question was, is the 55mm the right size for our forks to install apex risers? Thank you for all the help. | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
Yep, 55mm is it. I have Apex clip-ons on my R, but it's not necessary to drop the forks for "full" clip on contact. I have mine at maybe an inch, and it's plenty for security. But I got that amount not by dropping the forks, but by installing the CNC top clamp, which is much thinner than stock. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/chassis/upper-triple-clamp-kit.html | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I used the 54mm Apex bars on my R and they fitted fine. Mine are mounted below the triple clamp. See http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=2167221#POST2167221 | ||
| Believer |
Ok, so what do you recommend now, 54mm or 55mm? Really nobody knows how much forks go down? Thanks for the answers  | ||
| Kicka666 |
Lowering the forks will affect the bikes handling as discussed, as for how much the forks go down explain? lowering the forks in the triple clamps wont affect the forks travel. Do you want to mount the bars below or above the top triple clamp? | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
The 54mm's were a good fit and I think that's the size most clip-on manufacturers recommend, so I'd go with those. If you want to know exactly how far you can lower the front you'll need to remove the fork springs and compress the front and see how far you can drop the triple clamps down the forks before something hits. I wouldn't have thought you could go much beyond 20mm safely without running into ground clearance and tire clearance issues. Shorter springs and limiting the travel inside the forks may be another option but I don't what needs to be done to do that. You would also need to find out how to modify the rear shock to suit. (Didn't the Scg's have reduced travel?) How much do you want to reduce the seat height by? 0.5" usually makes a noticeable difference. Other options are a modified seat, lower profile tires (eg 120/60-17 for the front). | ||
| Believer |
I will lower the forks in the triple clamps, but I don't know how much I can lower them that the lower clamp won't hit the front fender ("when I hit the hole in the road"). I must know what is the minimum distance between lower fork clamp and the front fender (or in other words, what is the forks travel?). If I can lower them enough I'll put the bars above the top triple clamp, other way, below. p.s.: I already lower for about 0,5" and I don't fell any difference. Which I probably will when I'll lower them for 2" or 3". But I still think that the handling won't be much worse. | ||
| Believer |
I was asking some mechanics to install shorter spring in forks, but nobody wants to do this. I will look for a lower profile tires (thanks for the tip), but I can't lower the seat anymore. I have xb scg tail on my CR already but it didn't made much difference in height. For Xb's you can get some Alu profiles to lower the rear end, but not for 1125. What do you mean much below 20mm? Maybe 30mm or 40mm? I would really need the spec. for forks? What is the travel?.... I need to lower the seat height for about 3" or even more, which I know it's almost impossible. Thank you for all the help for now... | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
You could wind up with a lower but mostly unridable bike. Gas-in-frame Buells are picky about handling. Small changes in suspension settings, tire type/profile, etc,can easily make a mess of handling characteristics. If the front is lowered more than a few mm, the rear must be lowered an equal amount, or you could have a very unpleasant riding bike, unless you can avoid curves and stick to straight roads... | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
What do you mean much below 20mm? Maybe 30mm or 40mm? I would really need the spec. for forks? What is the travel?.... I meant maybe 22mm. You'll also need to check if the forks are tapered below the lower triple clamp, I think they are. Obviously you can't lower the triple clamps below where that taper starts because the clamps won't bite on the forks correctly and the tube isn't as strong at the point. Google is your friend: 2010 1125CR Front suspension travel: 120 mm (4.7 inches) Rear suspension travel: 127 mm (5.0 inches) Ground clearance: 138 mm (5.4 inches) You asked in your opening post if lowering 1.5" is still safe, I don't think so, and 3" even less so, for all the reasons the others outlined above. That doesn't mean it can't be done. With some careful, serious engineering you could make a bike that is rideable but reduced in performance. I would check out the drag forums like www.outlawdragbike.com and superstreetbike magazine and find out how they do the Hayabusa's and R1's etc. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
See also http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lowering_y our_bike_safely/index.html | ||
| Believer |
Thanks Lemonchili_x1. I have already read that article some time ago, and it is written about lowering the bike on the same way I want. Everything would be much easier if I had someone who could shorten my springs in fork and on rear shock. The front suspension travel you mention is not a real one... It can't be even longer then 95mm (which is the distance between lower triple clamp and front fender!) and I'm sure it's even shorter - let's say about 70mm or maybe 75mm. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Maybe a MUCH easier and cheaper and safer option is to get thick soles on your boots. Two inches should be doable. You may need to get the lower pegs and adjust the shifter high unless the boot-maker can leave the arch of the sole thinner than the rest. Just tell people Disco is back! (Or just getting to Slovenia) | ||
| Dennis_c |
Grow 3" more  | ||
| Kevmean |
Remember that if the bikes weight is already on it's wheels that part of the suspension travel is already taken up .....so just because you only have 95mm clearance now doesn't mean the travel can't be 120mm |
