|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 10:24 am: ||
I'm almost at the valve check stage of the game.
Called the nearest dealership that's half decent (just under an hour away - other one is about 1.5 hours the other way and I refuse to go back there - they're useless), and spoke with the head tech (one of the few guys there trained on Buells).
He says that since it's not under warranty any longer, it's not really something to be worried about at this stage, but maybe in another 10K km (end of next riding season). Apparently all of the 1125's he's done the checks on (he guestimates 20+) have easily been in spec.
Now, I'm wondering if he's full of it, or if there's some grain of truth. Apparently the shop is slow on work and offering a $20/hour discount (it's winter here -- today was 3 fahrenheit) - if they were hurting for work, they'd jump at the extra 5 hours of labour to do the check, wouldn't they?
p.s. yeah, I know... I should really learn to do it myself, but I just don't have the work space, proper tools or, biggest factor, the time to do it without losing track where I am in the process...
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 10:32 am: ||
He's full of it I did both of mine and all the exhaust valves were out of spec. get a shop manual and do it your self it's not that hard just takes time.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 10:50 am: ||
If there's a check you want to do, it's the first. I'd skip the second LONG before I'd skip the first.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 11:40 am: ||
Get it done. No Warranty = it's all on you if something grenades.
If you can't afford it right now, drive the cage and deal with it when you can.
The upside to doing it yourself is you can also check other components while in there (cams, tensioner). When a shop tells you "don't worry about it" they may also overlook other areas where there should be an eye for concern.
Don't you know anyone in your area with some space in their garage, tools, and can be a helping hand when you need it. Call a BRAN member! Can't hurt to ask.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 12:56 pm: ||
I checked mine at just 4000 miles.
ALL...were "under" the minimum clearance.
If I'd have let mine go to the full check interaval, the cams and rockers would have been trash...along with the rest of the engine with all of the sheared metal floating around in the crank case..!
Your engine, your money..!
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 01:12 pm: ||
Do it, but both of my bikes were nowhere near needing adjustment at the 12,400 mile service. Both will need the service again sometime this summer, so I'll have them checked again.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 01:44 pm: ||
What is this "valve check" of which you speak?
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 02:05 pm: ||
Thanks for all the input guys...
I'll be taking it in on Friday to have the job done properly.
Don't want my sweetie's engine going BOOM on me...
Again, would love to try it myself, but space, time and proper tools for the job are lacking.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 02:34 pm: ||
It may not go *BOOM*, but it will certainly begin to run like a POS. You'll probably have a lot of advance warning before anything grenades.
I have the same problem when it comes to not enough time and not enough workspace. Too many bikes jammed into one spot and no room to work. That said, there's no way that I'd ever skip the first valve check. If anything, I'd do it at the first possible convenience, even if that means doing it early.
20 years ago I made the mistake of skipping an early (first or second) valve check on a BMW oilhead boxer. I had spent a couple of weeks on canyons in the four corners, and instead of going in for the service interval I decided to extend the trip to make the river run in Laughlin. That was a mistake.
It didn't take very long before the bike started running rough and lost power. 2000 miles away from home it started running really rough. Other owners at the rally commented about how rough the bike sounded at idle. (And how I had already toasted the rear Battlax). The bike ran so rough that I couldn't keep up with them. Performing the regularly scheduled maintenance fixed the problem. It was like having a new bike again.
You've got to believe that the manufacturers know what they're talking about when they write up the service intervals.
Having learned the hard way, I'd never again skip a valve check because the timing is wrong or because it's inconvenient -- and I'd NEVER skip the first one. Now I do them at least annually, even if that means doing them early. And if it means that I have to rotate a bike out of the lineup until the work is done, I'll do that and ride/drive something else.
This winter I'll have a busy maintenance schedule. I'll be doing valve checks/adjustments on several bikes so everyone is in the lineup for spring. It gives me something to do with the bikes in the cold winter months when the snow starts piling up outside. I don't want them to feel like they're being neglected from lack of attention.
(Message edited by timebandit on January 04, 2012)
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 03:47 pm: ||
I just had my '08's valves checked with 6500 miles on the bike--the local dealer was having a "half off labor for December" deal and total cost for the valve check was $145, too good of a deal to pass up. I would have done it myself, but it would have taken me a day or two and I figured it was worth saving that much time to spend the $145. The tech said that all of the valves were in the middle of the spec range.
If you've got a dealer with a knowledgeable tech and they're offering a labor discount, you might as well do the valve check. Better to know that they're in spec.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 04:34 pm: ||
Wow. For $145, you have to wonder if they really checked them.
My Triumph Sprint was $800 for the 12k service.
Does the 1125 require many gaskets and parts?
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 05:11 pm: ||
Got a quote of $670 after 15% GST (stupid Ontario tax) for the whole service, including filters and oil etc etc.
That's with a $20/hour labour discount (works out to be about a 15% reduction in cost, so it basically covers the normal taxes).
Dropping it off on Friday.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 05:12 pm: ||
total cost for the valve check was $145,
Wow, with the amount of work to be done motor rotates down then back up seems like you did good or the tech was really fast IIRC the procedure is about 14hrs total..
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 08:15 pm: ||
> What is this "valve check" of which you speak?
Something you do on high performance motors that don't suck.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 08:17 pm: ||
I think "book time" is 8.5 hrs.
Usually takes me a week of "spare time".
First time 12.5k miles, all valves tight-in spec.
Second time @ 25k I replaced 6 of 8 to put all mid-loose.
The last one took longer, I spent 3 days looking for a shim I dropped. use a strong magnet....
DO NOT START if you drop a shim, you WILL grenade.
I would not skip the first, I will skip the third one tho.
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 08:35 pm: ||
Working on the boxers is nice.
* cylinders stick out sideways
* heads come right off
* doesn't take long
* if you drop parts they hit the floor
|Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 11:50 pm: ||
But it's still a BMW when you're done....
|Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 06:28 am: ||
Do it, mine were all tight @ 4500kms.
|Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 09:27 am: ||
I took my 1125 and service manual to an independent ducati mechanic who's done tons of valve checks. $300 and i know it was done right.