| Author | Message | ||
     Duphuckincati |
300 ft-lbs has been mentioned around the board a few times, as per the manual it's 207-214 ft-lbs, which is 295 Nm, thus the confusion. And don't forget to heat the nut before removal to "melt" the loctite. (Message edited by duphuckincati on December 14, 2011) | ||
| Froggy |
You are mistaken. The 210 ft lbs is an old spec. 300 ft lbs is the newer recommended spec. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
OK, posted this on another thread here too, same response. Just for the hell of it sent an inquiry to ebr. I'll let you all know what the latest word is. Just spoke to Mitsui (sp?) at Bartell HD in LA, he said at 220 ft lbs the nut would loosen in racing, so 300 it is for him, and he also said to use the red Loctite 272 over the green 648. (Message edited by duphuckincati on December 14, 2011) | ||
| Mako |
just curious what stock is? do we have to re-torque and threadlock if they get ridden hard? what if the stator has been replaced by dealer in aug '11?? more stuff to worry about... | ||
| Roadrash1 |
I doubt if the stock nut is coming loose. When I did the EBR kit on my 2010 1125R, I needed heat and my Makita electric impact to get the nut off. There was no budging mine with an 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar. I'm still amazed that the crankshaft locking tool takes that abuse! Short test ride in my neighborhood, and the voltage displayed with the EBR kit was a very steady 14.1 to 14.2 volts. Plugged in the tender after riding & it went straight to the green light. Come on Spring!  | ||
| Roadrash1 |
By the way, there should not be any reason for the dealer to loosen the rotor nut to just replace the stator. Unless something came apart and damaged the rotor anyway. | ||
| Anonymous |
Do NOT use believe the old manual info and use the old torque. It is now 300 ft-lbf and red loctite. Check many places for the specifics on process. If the rotor comes loose, you will have a large check to write for repairs. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Well that seems to be clarified. Thanks to all. Anyone got anything else change-wise from the manual the home mechanics here should know? | ||
| Froggy |
It can, I've had it happen to mine and some others have reported it too, especially if the bike is raced. Play it safe and stick with the higher spec if you ever need to touch it. | ||
| Roadrash1 |
I suppose that is why the torque is so high, and that red locktite is pretty impressive too! Seems like they would have a service bulletin on the nuts coming loose.... Check your nuts! Sounds like a PSA! | ||
| Jdugger |
> If the rotor comes loose, you will have a large check to write for repairs Sage advice. Mine did, cost me a motor and a very ugly crash in a race. The crank fused to the bearings in the resulting damage and the cases couldnt be split. I broke a collar bone when the rear wheel locked up at wot with my knee on the ground and tossed me off the bike. | ||
| Pmjolly |
So, who should be concerned about the rotor nut coming loose? Is it only the motors that have had rotors removed, or all the motors? Is it a certain year? I am wondering if I need to check mine before I do a Jim over the side. I know it's easy enough to check. I would just need to pick up a crank locking tool. | ||
| Jdugger |
I think it varies. My first race bike was an 08 appropriated from street duty. It was torqued to the old spec and never had the issue. The motor that got me was one built by a reputable builder, was torqued to the new EBR spec, and still came loose. For a street bike, I wouldn't worry about it too much. You might check it when you do the valve service. The bike makes quite a noise when it's coming loose, so I think you will be OK as long as the motor sounds normal. If it starts making a lot of clatter from the bottom, then check it. If you are racing, just make the check part of your oil change procedure. I change the oil every 10 or so hours, and pull the clutch, stator, exhaust and screen, so I'm already all up in there. Adding the stator nut check is not much additional work. I have the locking tool. You can borrow it -- it doesn't get a lot of use. | ||
| Timebandit |
hijack: just thought I'd ask what kind of oil you're using for the race application, and how you came to settle on the 10-hour change interval. granted, i'm in a street application, but if I changed every 10 hours, I'd be changing at least once if not twice a week. aargh. | ||
| Jdugger |
1. Motul 300V 15W-50 2. I change it when it has visible debris or shifts a little sticky. It's about 10 hours or so, but I'm not specific about it. Just when it's time. My slipper clutch is set very soft, so a lot of clutch debris ends up in the oil in short order. | ||
| Timebandit |
loose slippers. got it. thanks. you must wear through a lot of slippers. | ||
| Jdugger |
Slippers no, clutch plates and precision length bolts, yes. | ||
| Glide |
Does anyone have a torque chart that shows how the use locktite affects the final bolt stretch. Torque is reduced when using anti seize or other lubricants on threads and is included on charts but I have not been able to find this information regarding thread lockers. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Not sure this will be what you're looking for, but by using the hi-temp red thread locker you're to put that to 300lbs, but first to about 215 then back off two full turns then to 300. This lower setting/backing off has something to do with activating the thread locker. Got that direct from one of the Buell factory techs. |
