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Archive through November 17, 2011D_adams30 11-17-11  05:21 pm
         

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Green1
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you take the shim out and measure it,you'll have to add a larger shim decrease the gap or a smaller shim to increase the gap

ie one of your front inlets is 0.10 and you need it to be 0.15-0.22 so you need a shim that is between 0.05-0.12 smaller to put it in spec by increasing the gap

the trick is to get it to a spot where as it wears it still stays in spec.Some engines tighten up as valve wear happens and some loosen,it can be a little of an art to get it right

(Message edited by green1 on November 17, 2011)
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Green1
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats funny,got called away for a couple of mins and come back and finish my last post,and another post was there with charts and worksheets
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Duphuckincati
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Avalaugh, out of curiosity, how many miles on your bike and have you noticed any material on your drain plug magnet or the bottom screen?

I'm also thinking, and would like to hear comments, that most of the change in valve clearance happens within the first 10,000 miles or less, in this dohc design they tend to tighten rather than loosen and setting the clearance on the loose side will give longer intervals between adjustments.?
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D_adams
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Running the clearance too tight will eventually burn the valves, running too loose causes it to mushroom the valve and excess wear overall.

I will agree that the clearance tightens up initially, the valves wear into the seat some. I'll be checking mine again sometime this winter, but I don't expect the clearances to change much from where I set them last time.
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Avalaugh
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2011 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks I have those sheets, I didn't realise I had to measure the old shims, thought they were just standard size from factory.

I have about 15500miles on it, and never had anything on the screen except a tiny bit of what looked like black plastic once.
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Avalaugh
Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2011 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took some measurements today, going to put all my shims nicely in the middle of the range and see what they're like next year.

I had some trouble using the formula in the manual ? it doesnt seem to work out, i tried re-taking all my readings just to make sure, even got the wife (deals with numbers all day) couldnt see how it would work, nor get it to.

Ill pop up some of my readings tomorrow and see if you guys make it the same as me.

Heres a short video of follower slide and shim removal for those who've never seen it before.

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Avalaugh
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Front cylinder intake valves

valve NO 3 initial lash measurement 0.10mm
Valve NO 4 initial lash measurement 0.15mm

Valve NO 3 installed shim measurement 2.650mm
Valve NO4 installed shim measurement 2.600mm

By using my method iv'e come to needing new shims at 2.550mm, this will put me right in the middle of the tolerences ?

By using the method in the book its coming up with shim size 1.935 which would mean a 2.000mm shim as thats the smallest available ?

What am i doing wrong, or is the book incorrect.
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2.55 mm would be correct.

.1 ( #1 initial lash reading) + 2.65 ( #2 shim actual) = 2.75 mm total.
2.75 (1 + 2) - .22 (3) = 2.53 (L or lower limit)
2.75 (1 + 2) - .15 (4) = 2.6 (U or upper limit)

((L)+(U)) / 2 = (S = desired size)

(2.53 + 2.6) / 2 = 2.565 mm

Target is in the middle, or as close as you can get, so 2.55 is correct.

2.6 + .15 = 2.75 mm so the numbers match on the other intake valve.

I guess the mathematical equation listed in the book is a little misleading since the / 2 is in parentheses as follows.

((L)+(U)) / (2) = (S)

The divide by 2 is literal. Add the lower lash to the upper lash limits, divide by 2 and you have your true target. In this case, it was 2.565 mm which is not an available shim size.


Make sense now?
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Avalaugh
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes it does, but my book shows

(1)+(2)-(3)= (L)

(1)+(2)-(4)= (U)

and to get the desired shim size (S)

((L)+(U))/(2)= (S)

using this method I got (S) as 1.935 ??

But i have just done this again and now i get 2.565, so god knows what we were doing last night ?? Must of been tired.
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Avalaugh
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah i see now, i was using (2) rather than just dividing by 2. Really then the book is wrong, as 2 shouldn't be in brackets.
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It must have been either too much or not enough Boddingtons.

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Dennis_c
Posted on Monday, November 28, 2011 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

V Rod shims will work they use the same part #
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Avalaugh
Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dennis, are you sure they have the same part number ? my local dealer arnt very helpful with Buells.

If i just call in and ask for V-ROD shims and give them the part numbers listed in my workshop manual, am i going to confuse the parts guy ?
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Mhpalin
Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My dealer says they are the same ones I would just check the size marked on them before you take them home also I just talked to my dealer Buell frendly and they say they are the same part # in Canada.
Mike
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Avalaugh
Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Mike, that's great.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi everyone just finished adjusting my rear cyl on my 08 R at 13000 kms both exhaust were .006 and the intakes were .006 and .007.
This is just like what my 09 CR was like at 15000 kms lots of tight ones I think its well worth it to check your valves before the recomended mileage yes I ride both of them hard.
Mike
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Kicka666
Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 06:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine were tight @ 4000Kms,all the bikes I have owned were checked well B4 the service interval : )
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I checked Loretta at 12.5k miles, all the valves were tight-in-spec.
I did get a new front exhaust cam thru warranty, so I suppose I got fresh shims there at that point.
When I checked at 25k miles, I had to change 6 of 8 and put everything on the loose side of spec.

I haven't been getting much seat time lately, 27.7k on the clock now.
I expect all to be fine next inspection tho.

Z
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Njdevils1990
Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So from what it looks like in the pictures the hardest part of checking the valves is getting everything out of the way (ie frame..etc.) also when you check them does the cam have to be in a certain position? I have never checked valves before but am technically inclined and with the shop manual would you recommend i give it a shot? I also have my dad who could help me out if need be.
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Avalaugh
Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2011 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It really is quite easy, i have taken alot more off than needed as im having alot of paintwork being done.

When you check the valve clearence the lobe must be 180 degrees away from the shim being checked. All explained in the manual.
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Pizzaboy
Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2011 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I checked Loretta at 12.5k miles, all the valves were tight-in-spec.
I did get a new front exhaust cam thru warranty, so I suppose I got fresh shims there at that point.
When I checked at 25k miles, I had to change 6 of 8 and put everything on the loose side of spec.

I haven't been getting much seat time lately, 27.7k on the clock now.
I expect all to be fine next inspection tho.

Z

holy cow zack! i finally beat you on mileage!! i am at 29.5k. and i was worried that im slowing down too! haha

anyways, this is a great article so far; im thinking ill try this method this time around; cant put off the valve check on my beast any longer either- its happening this winter!
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