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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Archive through June 24, 2012 » My Turn! » Archive through October 29, 2011 « Previous Next »

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Rhard
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just put in my Erik Buell Racing ecm and during the 10min acclimation run the battery light comes on. Take it for a run around the block battery light goes out. Take it out for another ride it makes it one block to the stop sign and it dies when I blip the throttle. It won't restart, low voltage scroll. Push it back home and call Erik Buell Racing thinking I might have cooked something installing ECM. Erik Buell Racing tech tells me to check voltage on battery and regulator. Everything seems good after ii sits on charger over night. Charges at 13.6 at idle and 14.02 at 3grand. Take it for a ride today, stop at Blue Springs H-D and it doesn't start again. BS H-D charges battery and tests it and charging system, it seems alright. Pull in driveway battery light comes on again. This time I put volt meter on and it's reading 11.6 even when it revs to 5 grand. Going to dealer and am going to ask for an '08 stator and rotor. They put a '10 motor in my '08 in july of last year, harness installed then too. I have 2K on this motor. Updates to come.
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Green1
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You my want to swap back to the stock ECM before it goes in for warranty work,give them no excuses.My stator went just after installing the ECM as well,took it out before taking it in and just got my bike back,haven't put the ECM back in yet but my battery light was on as well during the relearn
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Rhard
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, I was going to do that just so there wasn't any problems. I thought somebody else had the same problem. Thanks for the reminder.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Test the harness relay. There was a recent thread about the stator harness relays failure giving the same symptoms as a stator failure. Bypass the relay by running with out the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBYEYGJfyBw&lc=7K_i v4njC--S3_A5mbQwDf83ep5MuHBdSqFNn2lIdzI&feature=in box
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Rhard
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Danny, I'll try that. I heard that some of the harnesses were going bad but I thought they were burning. My harness is not discolored at all. If I had only know about the BadWeb before hand I'd have had the dealer put in the '08 stator in the '10 engine when they did the change. Thank all of you Buellers for all the info and fellowship. Randy Harding.
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Craigsmoney
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

be careful when you unplug the wiring harness fix. I've heard of people doing that and cooking the stator within a few miles.
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Rt_performance
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

craig thats Bullshit.....none of these where built with the relay shutting off one leg.
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Bextreme04
Posted on Sunday, October 02, 2011 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just swap out the relay with a known good one... pull one out of your car or something and see if it charges normal after that... mine is an 09' with stock stator and recall harness and Erik Buell Racing ecm, and it charges at 14.3v at idle on startup.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not bs Rt. The 09-10s were not designed properly to be 530 watt systems using a 400 watt VR. So a compromise had to be made somewhere hence the harness & relay. So if you delete the harness & relay, it's inevitable that the stator will burn out again eventually. Not too hard to understand.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RT as far as unplugging the harness fix it might be what happens. Mine had the relay put in several thousand miles ago and the batt light never ever lit up at idle before this season now it happens more frequently. This says to me the stator is weakening from either heat cycling or internal resistance changing in the winding or just plain burning out. When I change the plug which I will do today it will immediately charge the 14.1 volts or so it was designed to charge. However it will burn itself out in record time I believe as it is already in a weakened state.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brumbear - I too expected to burn out my stator when I switched away from the harness a few thousand miles ago, no problems so far. I received my bike with 39 miles, the harness was already on. My original stator failed at 2,200 miles. The warranty stator did fine with OEM ECM but had trouble staying alive with the eebbrr ecm. I really wanted to leave the eebbrrr ecm in so I tried running with out the harness. The darn thing runs better than ever this way with several thousand miles so far. I use almost 3.4 quarts syn. oil and change at 1,000-1,500 miles.
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Rt_performance
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if you guys think that leaving the harness in keeps the stator alive why is this sub form here??

the r/r and stator are just big ole piles of crap. making the recall harness polishing a turd. seems like a great idea but does nothing.

after the harness was put in my stock r/r failed withing 500 miles.

sorry everyone venting here. i can't belive i have had this bike for 2 years and the only fix is 1500 worth of 08 parts.

I wish someone would step up and help us.
HD,rotax or Erik. give us a cost effective repair.
i wouldn't blink at a 500 repair that lasts.
Hell i spent 300 on a rewind and a better r/r already. yet my stator still fried.

This pisses me off to no end first and likely last new vehicle i will ever own.
I have a 93 dodge w100 truck with a 6 cylinder i plow with after it sat in a field for 2 years that is way more dependable than this bike.
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Craigsmoney
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wonder if the race ecm takes care of the stator like the wiring harness does.

If you are having trouble with the charging of the system with the upgraded wiring harness, try installing a new relay. That's what happened with my bike.

I hope this helps.
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Rhard
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just looked at relay, it appears that the top connector has got hot. Does anybody has test procedures for the relay or a part # for the auto type relay? I haven't pulled harness off yet and tried that. Have it scheduled to have CycleConnection in Joplin,Mo. saturday.
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Craigsmoney
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sparky - The 09-10s were not designed properly to be 530 watt systems using a 400 watt VR

Does this mean if I find a 530 watt VR, it would save the stator?
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Yugi
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:


Just looked at relay, it appears that the top connector has got hot. Does anybody has test procedures for the relay or a part # for the auto type relay?



My original relay failed already with the top wire burned and melted some plastic of the connector. I replaced the relay and it ran fine for a while. Yesterday I've got system voltage message and the voltage went high and burned my headlight bulb. I found out that the same top wire on the harness is pretty hot again. Removed the harness, and running fine so far. Not sure what happened to VR. I'm going to call a dealer and let him to replace the harness and test the VR.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RT I don't think it keeps the stator alive I got it done in the begining when nobody knew what it would do? I just know that once a stator starts to go it's gonna go eventually and I agree I wish I could find a fix.
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Bextreme04
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced my VR with the fh0012 when it went out and then the relay when i started getting a low charging voltage condition. No issues since. I wouldn't think that the stator would slowly put out less and less voltage until it failed. seems to me it is either good or bad. I would think that the relay going bad would put a really high load on one phase of the stator and possibly burn it out as well as not having the harness installed puts too much power to the VR and can possibly short some other components. If you are having a low charge condition replace the relay, if you have an overvoltage put a better VR in it. Just my .02
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Rt_performance
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

criag the Ebr ecm idles lower and thats when the relay drops a leg and some have a low rpm charge issue.

I am sure the f0012 is rated high enough and stators still fail we need a cooling aid or less megnatism.

That is a standard size car relay in the recall harness you won't have an issue walking into a parts store and getting one or
just ask for a 1991 dodge dakota starter or horn relay that will get you one.
Finally the weather is getting warm agian i can got get rid of some of this aggresion on my Buell
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Craig, possibly the only way a VR could save the 09-10 stator design is if it were a series type as typified by this 50 amp 3 phase regulator CE 605 SB offered by Roadstercycle.com. A series regulator open-circuits the output of the stator rather than shorting it when excess power needs to be regulated.

A shunt type VR like the stocker and the better performing MOSFET Shindengen FH012A work OK but they cause the poor stator to run at full current output all the time thus generating needless amounts of heat (compared to a series regulator) even at lower rpms.
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Crustyxpunk
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I keep hearing about people talk about spending insane amounts of money on the '08 stator and rotor. I got in eBay and looked around, found a couple of sellers who deal in used motorcycle parts and had some 1125r bits for sale. I gave them a call or message and said hey I see you have (engine cases, cylinder heads, etc) for sale from an 08, how about a stator and rotor? Long story short I got a very nice low mile used setup for $300 shipped for if and when my 09 bites the dust. I say stop spending money on rewinds you know are probably going to fail and just go this route.
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Rt_performance
Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2011 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lucky snag crusty.
might have to try that myself
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J2blue
Posted on Thursday, October 06, 2011 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The '08 swap is a great solution, but just think of how many '08 owners will suddenly disappear from the face of the earth? Remember the commandment: "Thou shall not covet thy neighbors 2008 stator"?
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Rhard
Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it's the stator. Cycle Connection H-D in Joplin said they have ordered an '08 stator just like I asked for. Guess we'll just wait and see if that is the case. What are the part #s for the '08 and '10 stators? When I talked to them they didn't say anything about the rotor which I know is different.
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Rhard
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Two weeks and no news from dealer. Guess I'll call HmfD customer service and find out what the problem is. Dealer said they were waiting on UPS.
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Rhard
Posted on Friday, October 28, 2011 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

CC H-D tried to put a '08 stator in the bike and said it wouldn't fit. I told them it would if they put in an '08 rotor. they said couldn't do that, so they have a '08 stator for sale at a discounted price if anyone is interested. Cycle Connection H-D is in Joplin, MO. 877-545-8964. H-D customer service said that the stator problems were from shorted wires. Yeah right. Just wonder how long this one is going to last. Guess I'll have to wait and see how the rewind sort out.
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Yugi
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I never seen the harness working as designed. I tested the control wires, and they seem to be reversed. Dealer confirmed this. Harness never switched 2 legs off.
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The harness/relay only controls one phase on and off. The other two phases go straight from the stator to the VR albeit through the harness but not the relay.
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Yugi
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you cut out one of 3 wires, two phases will be out, and only one will remain. I've never seen the relay cutting anything yet. It only cut when it was fried.
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

If you cut out one of 3 wires, two phases will be out, and only one will remain



That's not true. Each of the two remaining phases will produce a positive pulse with the return going through the other phase because the stator is connected to the VR which electronically ties all 3 phases together through diodes.

If that's hard to visualize, look here.
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