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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through October 18, 2011 » Clutch weep for the new owner « Previous Next »

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Ghost12
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alrighty so I've had my 1125r for about 2 months now. And started hearing about clutch weep. I've got it and want a little information before I take my bike in to get fixed.
Forgive me I do not have an owners manual or shop manual.
What fluid is actually leaking?
Why is it leaking? Just a bad seal or what?
How long will it take the dealership to fix it if I don't have to wait in line behind others trying to fix their bike?
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Jcjohnson33
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your clutch fluid (brake) is what's leaking. So keep an eye of you clutch fluid reservoir. It's leaking from the seals that make up the clutch piston. With parts I think a dealer should be able to replace in about 2 hours or less. I've never had mine replaced so I don't know the time line on replacement. Mine leaked a small amount. Then I just refilled the res. bleed the system and it has not leaked. Maybe cuz I switched over the a better synthetic fluid IDK but it doesn't leak now.
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Ghost12
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So the hydraulic clutch fluid that runs from the master cylinder on the handle bars down to the clutch?
So to check the level just look at the master cylinder sight glass on the front of the resivior?
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Jcjohnson33
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 08:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes that is correct. But be careful just checking for fluid thru the "window" can be misleading. Hold the bike straight up and remove the cover it is better to know exactly the level instead of a guess thru the window.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

don't over fill it ...from high school physics class...liquids expand when heated....liquids can't be compressed...( that's why hydraulics work they way they do)...the engine gets hot heats up the fluid...the seals in the master cylinder are more robust than the ones in the slave cylinder down by that hot engine...the expanding fluid has to go somewhere... if you have an air gap up in the master cylinder the expanding fluid will fill it up...if you don't the fluid will find the least point of resistance (the slave cylinder down by the engine) and leak out...bottom line...like JC sez - hold the bike level and do your best to get the Master Cylinder level and chk the fluid level ...you should see some "air" in the sight glass (window)...to allow for fluid expansion....if you're up to it change the fluid with a better grade (MOTUL makes some "hi temp" brake fluid (DOT 5.1 & RBF660) the racers use)...I like the 5.1 ( not too costly) good luck
Note DOT 3 or 4 and 5.1 are all Glycol based and are compatable ( the boiling points are higher as the designation number is higher)...DOT 5 is NOT as it is silicone based ..DO NOT use DOT 5 in the system.

(Message edited by nuts4mc on October 04, 2011)
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Xodot
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ghost - the master cylinder on the left handgrip is your clutch aster cylinder. It has DOT 4 fluid in it.

I have mine "repaired" by the dealer three times now. May I suggest http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125cr /ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.htmlif you are not under warranty. Your dealer will install it if you can't do it yourself.

Jcjohnson33 - what was the better synthetic fluid you replaced it with???
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only reason to use upgraded fluids in the clutch is because you did the brakes and had some left over.

It won't last as long and will turn black sooner than regular old DOT4.

The demands places on fluid for the clutch are relatively low. Use the cheap stuff that's designed to last longer instead of perform better.
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Xodot
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks Jdugger
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Ghost12
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its luckly still under waranty for acouple more months and ive got a couple other issues for them to take care of. But is the clutch weep even worth having the dealership take care of or will it just leak again?
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Jcjohnson33
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I replaced all fluids when I replaced my brake pads. Using my brake bleeder kit just sucked out all old fluid thru the bleed valve and kept adding more in the m/c till I felt all the old stuff was out. I used valvoline syn power full synthetic. It's still a dot 4. May go to a dot 5.+ next time around. All I did on the clutch side was remove the puck cleaned up inside, did not remove piston, and change out the fluid and it has not leaked since. I'll check my fluids today, it's been a few months since I did, so the brake fluid I used may not be super oil but it's better than stock.

(Message edited by jcjohnson33 on October 04, 2011)
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