| Author | Message | ||
     Dnlink |
So I'm riding the 1125 to Colorado at the end of June and since I'm at 13600 miles I figured I would do the check. I had Friday off so after reading the engine rotation section of the manual a couple of times I started pulling parts. In about 6 hours I had the engine ready to rotate. Saturday: Spent 5 hours rotating engine, Removing valve covers, checked Valve lash(several times)all were slightly out save for one,doing the math and deciding which shims to get. Sunday: 6 hours going to H-D (spit) to get shims, install shims, replace valve covers and rotate engine back into position(twice, coolant crossover tube goes below K brackets.) Monday: 4 hours, scuffing and painting muffler and bolting everything back on. Test ride and DONE! 21 hours over 4 days, first time and going slow as to not screw anything up and everything save body work was torqued. How long has it taken the rest of you luna....gentlemen that adjust your own valves. I think I could take some time off the next time but I don't know how much. | ||
| Velocity |
I hope while you were in there you replaced the plugs? Scott | ||
| Avalaugh |
Can someone explain what would happen if I leave the valve check until the winter, I'm at 12k now but need to drop engine this winter for further mods. If mine needs any shims, will it just be a tad noisy, or down on power ? Or will it cause damage to the engine. | ||
| Dnlink |
I did the no rotate plug change about 3K ago. they looked good so I rechecked gap and reinstalled. | ||
| Dnlink |
Avalaugh, the valves clearance will decrease with wear so you won't get noise. If they got tight enough to hold open or not seat properly it would at least run poorly and at worst burn valves. Or maybe someone who knows better can answer that question, I have never claimed to be a mechanic. 13600 miles was the first time mine had ever been checked and they were just slightly out, I will probably let mine go 15K next time. Disclaimer, I'm a Calibration guy not a mechanic. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Mine were tight but in spec at 12k. Just a hair tight outside at 25k, I shimmed for loose/mid on clearance(6 of 8). They don't seem to wear very fast with the follower design. Dlink's opinion of your situation is identical to mine... Z | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
When the valves get tight, the bike will be hard to start, if they get loose, you might loose power, but it would be hard to notice. As far as waiting until winter, how many more miles will you put on it? Waiting until 13k, probably ok, waiting until 15k, might be pushing it. The first valve check is the critical one, if they are all in spec, then you don't have to worry as much. | ||
| Avalaugh |
Thanks chaps, I think I'll wait until the winter. | ||
| Crowley |
My TRX trackbike became very difficult to start when the valves closed up. After re shimming, I only have to look at the button and it starts  | ||
| 1_mike |
Dnlink - You comment about clearance is incorrect. The gap will get larger with wear. The gap will get smaller with seat (or valve) recession. The Rotax design "wears" on the shims AND...both sides of the rocker arm along with the cam, unlike the bucket design which has half the wear locations. In my experience, the shim under bucket "seems" to be longer lived. The materials and heat treatments seem to be more suited to each other than the Rotax design. I've had Yamaha's, and Kawasaki's, that went double or more mileage before needing any sort of adjustment. My 03 R1, with just over 100,000 miles on it has never needed reshiming..! No more than .001" change in any of the 16 valves. I set my CR's valves on the high side at about 4000 miles. I did this because they were all "under" the minimum, with one exhaust valve at .001" total gap..! At the last check in December, the valves were even but all just over the maximum. I let it go at that. If you listen, you can hear valve clatter above about 3500 rpm. Soo...the CR's coming out of service this weekend for a valve adjustment. Mike |
