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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through May 19, 2011 » Interesting Engine Brake Change « Previous Next »

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Tsnake
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 08:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello,

Engine brake on my stock 09CR suddenly changed!a lot!
Strange but smooth, mysterious but cool!

before, I barely use front brake unless I need to stop or fast slow down, and rear brake pedal was almost forgotten.

but just a few days ago, engine brake reduced VERY MUCH below 3000 rpm, it sticks between 2000 and 3000, rpm drops very very slowly, and if on a little downgrade, I could even let the handgrip go, the bike won't slow down : )

so, now, I have to pull the clutch(to set the rpm to idle) and brake lever earlier if I want to stop.

good thing is it's become smoother below 3000, like an Erik Buell Racing ECM! I could easily re-accelerate without playing some clutch like before (cause before @ the same rpm, it's not smooth at all : D).
in addition, if now I see a red light far away, I could do some hand-free jobs!



I tried a race ecm once, didn't like it too much because of weak engine brake.
but if it's just around 3000rpm, I would definitely keep it!

running full STOCK, engine brake over 3500 seems the same as before.
de-noided in the meantime.

Don't know if this ever happened or been discussed before, found very interesting.

I think it's maybe the idle cable is not working very well?
or some wireless american-europe Erik Buell Racing ecm upgrade testing program?

should I feel lucky for this?!
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Bueller4ever
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you sure the throttle linkage isn't binding? Sounds odd, i'd pull the air box and make sure the throttle blades are closing fully.
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That or the clutch switch wire came undone.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check for clutch weep.

Mine just started and I'm getting less engine braking than before.
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> Check for clutch weep.

Not saying your observation isn't accurate, but I personally don't understand how they could be related...
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Dannybuell
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking a slipping clutch won't give as much engine braking.
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Xodot
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

clutch weep does not cause slipping clutch- just to opposite. There is no operational effect on the clutch with clutch weep until you run out of fluid and then it stops you being able to actuate the clutch. Found out first hand last week!

As long as you have fluid the clutch works fine
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 04:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bet is your clutch switch is acting up. Normally, when you are in gear and start letting out the clutch, the bike will add a little throttle to make getting off the line easier. When you squeeze the clutch, it stops doing this and the idle will drop back down to normal. If you switch has failed, it thinks your lever is out all the time and you get the 2000-3000 idle.
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Tsnake
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 07:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

froggy
i thought of this, but the switch works, maybe not properly...clutch switch is linked to ? iac?
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> clutch weep does not cause slipping clutch- just to opposite.

Exactly. If you have no clutch fluid at all you can't disengage the clutch.
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Tsnake
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i did feel yesterday the clutch lever easier to pull, but this morning seemed ok, maybe just due to temperature change?
throttle cables were not quite well guided, may this is the cause, i re guided the cables and lubricated a little the idle one, nothing change.

if its a clutch weep, where could i find the liquid? cause the clutch side is clear, banjos seem fine.
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