| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
'09 1125R I have newish stator, R/R, harness and battery. I added an additional ground to subframe and to the battery. I figured why not I am planning to mount a 12V computer fan on the R/R seems like it might help. any thoughts? I hope this isnt a hijack. sorry. todd | ||
| Ezblast |
Its a good question about trying to make do with what you have and mod/improve with a fan? Think it will take the heat away fast enough? Good question! EZ | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
What's still unclear, is where the problem really lies. The possibilities are: Wiring; poor or failed connections, inadequate sizing. A wiring failure could single-phase the stator, overloading the windings. (the negative or ground circuit is always suspect, as the M/C frame is much of that circuit) Rectifier/regulator: overheating, (original has no heat-sink, and depends on attachment to the frame to dissipate heat) and/or internal failure of the R/R, leading to single-phasing as above. Stator: Overheating due to inadequate cooling; improper/inadequate winding insulation; poor workmanship in construction; inadequate materials used. (a comment here is that the stator has physical attachment to the engine, and is cooled by engine oil, so winding temp would not be expected to exceed engine temperatures. The stator windings should be comfortable at temps well above engine temps..) We know some '08 stators fail, but not all (so far). We know many '09 stators fail. The '09 stator has higher output, which is a clue, and that both years use the same R/R. So far, I don't think the stator itself is the culprit. Proof would be '09 bikes that have a upgraded R/R, all wiring sizes/connections verified. Then have no problems. So far, in bikes I've worked on, the only stator failures I've seen that seemed to have originated with the stator itself, have been old bikes with failed stator insulation. If I've left out anything, jump in..! | ||
| Tpoppa |
(a comment here is that the stator has physical attachment to the engine, and is cooled by engine oil, so winding temp would not be expected to exceed engine temperatures. The stator windings should be comfortable at temps well above engine temps..) Not sure I agree with this. The stator generates its own heat. It can get hotter than the surrounding engine components. (Message edited by tpoppa on April 15, 2011) | ||
| Syonyk |
Syonyk - This discharge problem with high beams is not just at idle, this is continuously riding at medium (4-6K) rpm. I would suspect from these symptoms that at least 1 arm of my stator is dead, and that the remaining parts are (barely) able to keep up with minimal electrical demands (I have no accessories on the bike yet). Oh, alright. That's definitely a problem, then. If I'm at 5k or above, even with high beams and fans on, I'll see 13.5-13.8v. Misunderstood, sorry!  | ||
| Kinder |
So as based on posts here a switching style regulator is the way to go if one is upgrading. Now where can you find one? | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
http://www.usmotoman.com/index.cfm I gave $173.39 for mine, very good customer service too, this is for the Compufire 55402 series type regulator. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, looks like I may be an 08 with a stator failure. Checked my volts at idle with fans running and low beams on. 11.8. At 3000 rpm it's 12.02. Not good. Going to double check my VR wiring and ensure all 3 phases have volts on them, but I think this is a lost cause. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
This is with my fans running and sitting still in my garage after about (150) miles of riding today. I think I like my new Compufire voltage regulator.  | ||
| Kruizen |
Being that the stator is oil cooled has anyone looked at comparing oil type used and stator failure rates? | ||
| Dannybuell |
Finedaddy1 what were the voltage readings before the compufire install? | ||
| Kinder |
Kruizen: I had considered some things along that line of thought. I was wondering if certain oils have a better cooling properties. I reread the Amsoil white paper report but no info on time to temp or max temp stuff. I even was wondering if there would be some benefit to adding a larger oil cooler or at least a more efficient one. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Dannybuell- My readings were mid-low 12's, at the condition I posted above. My readings during normal riding on the original V/R were from high 12's to low 14's. So far this thing looks rock solid, it pretty much stays @ 14.5 to 14.6 while riding now, and when sitting still with fans running my voltage looks so much better. | ||
| Syonyk |
Could you do a writeup on the install? Or just some basic "Watch out for these while installing" comments? Awesome to see those voltages! | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, rechecked my wiring. Turns out one of my connections was bad. Pulled the harness I made and redid it. Now it works 20x better. At idle I'm seeing 13.5-13.9 and at 3000 rpm it's solid at 14.3. With the fans running at idle it's 13.1-13.5 and at 3000 rpm it's 13.9-14.3. With high beams and fans running at idle it's 12.9-13.3 and at 3000 rpm it's 13.5-13.9. A hell of a lot better than the stock one. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Syonyk- I do have a really good "how to" that's pretty much complete with pics. I'm working on putting it in .pdf format or maybe linking it to something like Photobucket. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Finedaddy, I don't think both fans run until 190*, just sayin. | ||
| Stargazer |
I have an '09 1125R, 2500 miles, last ride was only to a buddy's house, round trip 25 miles, on the way back home, 11.7-11.8 was the reading, check engine light and battery light came on and stayed on. took quite a while for the trickle charger to build the battery back. I was ready to yank the stator until I read this thread, now.. not so sure? I see the same thing everyone else does, when its cool outside and the bike is cool, 14-14.4, bike gets to op. temp. anywhere from 12.2-12.6 until the other day, first time I noticed it go to 11.7. I'd like to get a vote, if most think its regulator or stator? | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Bueller4ever- I stand to be corrected, one fan running. Honestly I did not know both come on @ 190°. Thanks for the correction. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Stargazer- I decided to pull my V/R when I noticed the wires going into it looked like this, therefore I figured it was getting ready to fry.  | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
After starting this thread, and watching it progress, I see no solid conclusions yet. But, leanings are certainly toward the R/R as the culprit. That is, when the stator fails, it appears the problem started at the rectifier/regulator. This could be due to poor heat transfer from the R/R to the frame, since the frame is the heat sink for the R/R, or internal failure from unknown causes, or ______? (Note here that poor wiring connections, wire sizing or inadequate grounding can also cause stator failure) So, at this point, it certainly seems wise to change out the R/R as soon a possible. If you wait till symptoms appear, it's quite likely the stator will already be toast. We do know the '08 and '09 have the same R/R, but the '09 stator has a bit more output. Do '09 stators have a higher failure rate because the later stator winding can't take the additional heat that they may generate? Or does the '09 R/R fail quicker because of the higher output of the stator, which in turn cooks the stator windings?....With the '08 R/R just needing more time/miles till failure? So, until more data is posted, the best insurance seems to be replacement of the R/R. If new Rectifier/Regulators such as the FH014AA are installed in several '09 bikes with good original stators, and these stators do not then fail, we can draw the conclusion that the R/R is indeed the root cause of stator failure. That answer will take some time; so having a bud with a trailer on speed-dial may be wise for awhile yet... | ||
| Rt_performance |
I installed a fh014aa and had my stator rewound . The stock stator at 10,000 miles wasn't as toasty as the 9k one from texas which failed at the gap this last weekend. I agree the vr seems to cause the issue. Dam DUc parts anyhow. I put roughly a 1,000 miles on it around the Dragon this weekend and it charges high13 to low 14's all the time even with the fans on. Ps my 1125 has mobile 1 v-twin every 3k since i got the first 500 miles on it. | ||
| Dirty_john |
Cycledoc59 - replacing the R/R with an FH012AA is a very simple wiring mod, but it is difficult to mount the FH012AA in the same location as the standard Ducati E part. As suggested by others on this forum I bought electrical connectors from Eastern Beaver and the FH012AA via the internet, it is also used on the 2009 Yam R1. The new R/R was mounted in the 1125R tail unit. The HD quick fix, i.e the relay and wiring harness is an attempt to reduce the possibility of the stator overheating on the 09 bikes (we are told) - changing the R/R can only help matters and if I had not already bought and fitted the FH012AA I would buy the Compufire R/R instead. Good luck with whichever mod you use. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
so is this the recommended voltage regulator? Where do you get the correct connector? http://www.amazon.com/COMPU-FIRE-REGULATOR-VLTG-CM PFRE-55402/dp/B0035U7LRM I assume you don't need to cut the stock connectors and can just modify the connectors on the new regulator? | ||
| Militarybuell |
Dirty, I've been reading a lot of the comments about the V/Rs. What makes you say that you would have chosen the Compu-fire instead of the Shindengen? I've been wondering which is the better choice for replacement. | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
Here's a photo of my FH014AA install. ('08 w/11K miles; no charging issues to date)  I sawed off the upper bolt-stud, and drilled a a hole adjacent to it for a new single bolt for the new R/R. The fittings are simply 3/8" spade connectors from a NAPA store. I removed the original plastic "squeeze" covers on the connectors, soldered the connections, then covered with shrink tubing. Next I lightly coated the connections with dielectric grease. After connecting, I put small pieces of rubber between the R/R terminals to be certain they would not touch each other. Finally, I "potted" the connectors with Goop to keep out water. I picked up the R/R on Ebay. This one is from an '07 CBR1000. It seems they a popular on a number of bikes, and there's a lot of them listed on Ebay. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
from an earlier post of mine... The top stud is a PEM stud - pressed into the alum. plate (that serves as base of the "heatsink")grip it with some vice grips and wiggle it back and forth - it'll fall out. ( no hack saw needed.)  | ||
| Nuts4mc |
you may want to add a fuse in line with the pos output (40amp) of the R/R  | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Bueller4ever- This is the correct V/R, as far as connectors I purchased a new one (coming from the stator)from e-bay about $24.00 and soldered the ends on myself. I purchased a used R/R from e-bay also and used the +/_ ends and soldered them on to the +/- leads on my Compufire regulator, it worked out really nice. | ||
| Gofast |
OK, Yes, mine was toasted at Deals Gap this weekend. 15 hour drive for 2 days of riding out of 4. Little bummed, not happy about my 1125R at the moment. Still, I'm ordering parts to get it running as soon as possible. 9K miles when it went, wiring harness upgrade at 600 miles. Never run high beams, occasionally use the GPS. Stator - Is being rewound now by Custom Rewind out of Birmingham, wished I had taken pictures when I dropped it off. Voltage Regulator - FH014aa - I assume this is the Honda CBR 1000 RR 2004 to 2007 model? E-bay has then for $90 to $120, free shipping. Any reason to get the more expensive Compufire? Connectors - I'm confused here, do I need connectors that fit the Honda regulator, or do I need connectors to fit the Buell Harness? Or do I use connectors from the wiring harness upgrade and solder them onto the aftermarket voltage regulator?\ Forgive me, but I just finished a 14 hour plus one day drive back, so I need to be clear until I catch up on sleep. Thanks Rob |
