| Author | Message | ||
     Jornum1 |
Looks like my old thread was archived and I cant update, so I started a new one. As some might have seen, I adapted a Uly tail and Front fairing to my 08 1125r. I used a cr highbar kit for bars and cables. The rest was all ULY. It looked like this(had a issue with seat fitment, its fixed now)  I was very happy with the changes, it was super comfortable and everything I wanted. The Uly front just never looked right IMO. Too bulky, and just not right. I have a buddy on the forum who has a CR he is racing this year and wanted to put a R front end on. So I traded him for his CR front. It was a straight forward swap aside from having to drill two holes for the headlight tabs on the lower tree. No big deal. I still need to paint the fairing to match, and adapt my ULY madstad brackets to the fairing. I am also researching having some longer cables and brake/clutch lines made up to incorporate a 1.5" rox riser. A traditional riser wont work as the top clamp holds the IC cluster. Just bought some bar ends from Knight designs to fit the hand guards, and some of these mirros off fleabay http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/0/7/0/9/webimg/ 368176096_o.jpg Anyway, here are some mock up pics. I plan to paint the subframe to match the plastics as well. I just used some old track wrap I had laying around to cover up the magnesium color. It clashed really badly. While I am sacrificing some wind coverage, looks wise, its 100 times better IMO.     | ||
| Dennis_c |
I will give you my real ULY the same year with all 3 bags for your want be ULY.I know I will be taking a loss on this trade but thats ok  | ||
| Ezblast |
That looks great! I'd not thought of that for the CR. How much higher is the seat height with the Uly set up on it? I agree with Dennis, that set up looks trick. Can't wait to see it finished out. EZ | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thanks guys, I am really in love with this setup and I have yet to ride it with the cr setup. NJ like the rest of the north is buried under snow and ice  Dennis, I do have all 3 bags, as well as some smaller 20L side bags. I am just modifying the braces for the standard XB passenger pegs. EZ, I am not sure about the height. Its hard to tell. If someone has the stock measurement, I can measure this one once I get it off the stands. | ||
| Nono443 |
Now this is my type of 1125! I kind of like the retrofitting between the two (or more in your case) models that most of you guys are doing (mostly lightning and 1125r). I hope to do this someday, so keep up the good work and don't forget to document! | ||
| Nono443 |
Almost forgot, how is the light output difference between the two headlight setups? Better (longer and brighter) for the dominators? Or better on the CR headlamp? | ||
| Cravacor |
That is very cool! Way to get your custom on. One good thing about winter is having time to work in the lab. | ||
| Jornum1 |
Nono, I havent taken it out with the CR front, so I cant compare the headlights. I have a 4000k HID in the low beam, so I wont be able to compare stock wise. I have heard others say that the CR headlight seemed to give off more light then the XB's, but I dont know that for a fact. When I tear the subframe down to paint, I will take some good pics and show everyone how I did it. Yeah Crav, I thought I was done with the ULY front, but looking at it every day, it was just bugging me. It didnt look right, so I had the opportunity to do a straight swap with a CR owner and took advantage. Thanks for the props guys | ||
| Cravacor |
I have a CR and find the headlights essentially useless for night riding. If I was serious about riding at night I would upgrade the headlights for sure. | ||
| Nukeblue |
cravacor, my cr headlamp was terrible also. what helped me out was adjusting it. it was pointed WAY down. there is a small 8mm (or 5/16) bolt at the lower back of the housing. i probably moved it 5 full revolutions before the low beam was up to where it actually shined ahead on the road! maybe you did this already but it sure helped mine. oh and a buddy of mine got one too and his was pointed down also. just be careful not to go too high or your high beam will be in the trees lol | ||
| Jornum1 |
Hmm good to know Nuke, I honestly dont do much night riding. Maybe just riding home after a long spring or fall ride when the sun sets early. I have the HID, because it does make a difference on those days, and the DDM units are so cheap its worth it. I will have to check out the angle when I get her off the lift. A little update, the Madstad bracket is not going to work. The angle of the CR flyscreen is so much greater the the uly screen that even at full extension it would just redirect the air flow right in my face! The only other option I can think of is to make a angled riser to increase the angle. Not sure if its worth it. I will have to see how bad it is once the roads clear up. I dont do a whole lot of cold weather riding, but I do a little. Also buttoned up all my wiring, mounted the HID ballasts and mounted the the Garmin 660 Mount. All I need now is my mirrors/bar ends, and some new paint on the flyscreen/subframe. IS everyone else in the north dying to ride already! | ||
| Ratgin |
I still think you had it nailed with the Ully fairing. All that is needed is a way to hide the pods a little. Can you still attach the side fairings? Now if i had any talent.. and a few ully parts mine with look like yours.. and a cr swingarm to fix the gearing | ||
| Jornum1 |
I hear ya Ratgin, it just didnt look right to me. Something about it just seemed off, like it was bunched up. But to each there own, I am very happy with it now. I believe the factory side fairings attached to the R front fairing. There are some aftermarket full fairings that you could use. I am not a huge fan of the shape of the pods, but at the same time I think the Rotax is a beautiful engine and I dont want to cover it up. And my buddy who swapped the front end with me is considering swapping the gearing also. I am kinda indifferent, but wouldnt mind having the CR gearing. So here's the fairing painted and ready to go. I put a NJBO sticker on before painting to kinda give a inconspicuous ghosted look. I like it. Everything is all buttoned up and ready to go now. Just need some sunshine here in NJ!     | ||
| Ratgin |
Looks good man. Wish i could find a Ully subframe. Well that ground hog says only 4 more weeks... tired of all that snow myself | ||
| Jornum1 |
Keep looking they pop up every once in a while. Just be aware it does take some creativity and fab work to get it done. I am by no means a engineer or a seasoned fabricator, but would like to say I have a decent skill set. Dont get me wrong, I like snow, I am a snowboarder. But after the IMS in NYC, it got me amped for the upcoming season. | ||
| Hotrats |
Jornum, your bike looks great. the uly sub frame works - looks and function. | ||
| Jornum1 |
Finally had a few warmer days. So I took the bike out to wash her off. I installed my bar ends and mirrors. I love the mirrors, but am not sold on whether the mesh with the hand guards. The guards are only going to be used in the colder months though. Once it gets warmer I plan to take them off. I was surprised, the mirrors were smaller then I had thought. But seem to be well built.    | ||
| Zcat |
Dude, I like that look. Great job putting a very unique idea together. I have owned a Uly and now a CR, this is a mod I think I'll have alot of interest in. Was there much frame fabrication involved? How bout storage room under the seat? | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thanks Zcat, There was a little fab work needed. I made two adapter brackets out of steel for the top two mounts. The bottom ones bolt up, though the top edge needs to be shaved to a bit to get the right angle. The pan also needed to be modified due to the location of the shock. The underseat storage was reduced because of the additional parts that are stored in the tail of the 1125(starter solenoid, and VR). I ended up mounting the solenoid and fuse block on the side of the battery, and the VR and relay block behind it. The only wiring I had to lengthen was the three wires coming from the stator to the VR. Of course I am simplifying it a lot, it took a good amount of time to get it done, but wasnt overly complicated. Anyone with some decent fab skills and the tools, can do it. | ||
| Hughlysses |
BTW, if anyone's interested in building one of these (Ratgin?), there's a Uly rear subframe and passenger footpeg brackets for sale in the classifieds: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 615050.html?1297517076 | ||
| Jornum1 |
Wow that's pricey. I think I paid less then $250 for all that besides the tail light and undertail. You could probably get it new from one of the 20% off sites for about the same. | ||
| Ratgin |
Yea those prices are a little steep for me | ||
| Bigevildoer |
Hey Jornum... What kind of bar ends did you use? I've got the exact same mirrors as you do, and I find the bar ends I have end up turning a bit in the wind. They're the kind with the rubber hose that gets compressed by bolt/washer/nut. PM me please if you can - I don't want to step on the admin's toes by having a non-sponsor item listed up. Thanks! | ||
| Jornum1 |
Those are knight designs bar ends, they also have the rubber compression fitting. They seem secure but I have not had a chance to ride yet. Hoping this week, its supposed to warm up some. | ||
| Bigevildoer |
Hmm.. I mainly had problems with the right side bar end. I had to leave the end slightly away from the handle bar rubber or else the throttle really stuck. Ended up putting some epoxy inbetween the rubber and the bar end so that they would not twist - it helped, but it's still no perfect. Tried the CRG bar ends, but they're too small for our mirrors. Let me know if you experience the same problems or not - if not, I might just have to invest in a pair of the Knight Designs bar ends. later! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Odd - I've run 2 sets of generic metric aluminum bar-ends, then made my own using the generic rubber piece and nut. All have mounted solid with no movement. Maybe it's the buzz, put some small lead shot, #7-8 birdshot is good, in ziplock bags inside the bars. It will kill the buzz, maybe then your bar-ends will stay put. Generic -  Mine -  Z | ||
| Jornum1 |
I believe big is talking about them rotating with the bar end mirrors like I have. This style sometimes can make the bar end come loose. I had some rizoma bar ends before which had a metal spreading mechanism. They worked good, and were very secure. I opted foe the knight designs because I had a set of their pegs before which I really liked. They make quality parts. And at $30 shipped they are reasonably priced. | ||
| Zac4mac |
OK, missed the mirror part. That's a lot of inertia to deal with. What about using left-hand threads for the RH bar-end? Z | ||
| Socoken |
Way, way cool bike, Jornum. Nice work! | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thanks Sockoken! Zac, I have thought of that as well. I am going to see how the Knigh designs hold them as is. They seem pretty secure, but it is only rubber. Most bar ends werent intended to hold a mirror like that. I may end up making my own metal insert if I have any more trouble. I have access to a lathe. I would have just made my own, but for $30 it wasnt worth my time, plus I would have had to get them anno'd, I dont like shiny stuff on my bike |
