| Author | Message | ||
     Smit3833 |
So after a tip-over mishap my clutch cover was damaged. I replaced the clutch cover with the new Rev B version and the critical o-rings. After re-assembly I've tried bleeding the clutch the old-fashion way by squeezing the lever and opening the bleeder valve. Adding Dot 4 when necessary. Repeat 50x... The clutch lever does move the piston, but not enough since it is still dragging. AKA its not fully disengaging. I've since tried vacuum bleeding and pressure filling from the bottom up. Neither seemed to make any difference. Anyone have any idea whats causing this? Am I just terrible at bleeding this thing or is there something else wrong? | ||
| Rt_performance |
be sure you have no leaks. (Like at the crush washers) Clutches are a b!tch to bleed cars or bikes. Be sure you have the lever adjusted all the way out. Try a bottle and hose . Hose that fits the bleeder tight into the bottom of a bottle with enough fluid to cover the end. Crack the bleeder slightly and fill resvoir and stroke. The bleeder is up? not sure you can index the cover wrong but if the bleeders down it will never bleed right | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a) Small cross sectional (thin) O rings (2) that go on outer clutch slave cylinder need to be lubed with at least brake fluid so they “slip” into the clutch cover – if they’re torn you’ll be leaking brake fluid into the clutch diaphragm area b) The clutch slave cylinder is “keyed” to the cover (you can see it where the puck goes in – it’s a small half round protrusion -pointing inward toward the engine – that fits into the half round “cut out” in the slave cylinder) – they have to match or the outer o rings may not seal – again brake fluid in the diaphragm area c) leaky hydraulic lines - ((2) crush washers) on both sides of banjo fitting…against the head of the hollow bolt and against the machined “port” – tight but not toooo tight – steel bolts going into aluminum can be tricky – I remove the cable clamp down on the engine to make sure I don’t cross thread the hollow bolt going into the clutch cover. d) you forgot the “preload” spring – goes into the cylinder BEFORE the piston …about 1.5” dia by 2” long – a couple of coils – not too strong – but strong enough to push the piston to the end of it’s stroke and take up the “free play” of the clutch “pull “ rod. e) the spherical nut is too loose – you stopped tightening the nut when the nut’s o ring hit the piston – gotta use a Allen wrench ( 5mm I think) and a box end wrench to make sure the spherical nut “hits home” and tight on the pull rod – the nut will push the piston in and pre load the spring, The piston will now be “out” as far as possible retained by the spherical nut , but allowing for the maximum amount of fluid to fill the cylinder – when you pull the lever on the mater cylinder – it will force more fluid into slave cylinder and it can only accept it by pushing the piston outward. Good luck | ||
| Smit3833 |
Thanks for the tips. I may have forgot to lube the (2) o-rings on the slave cylinder. American Sport Bike gave me some additional tricks to try on bleeding that I will give a try. Al recommended taking the kink out of the line that is a good place for air to get trapped too. | ||
| Afatka |
Smit3833, I know it has been years...but were you able to get your clutch sorted out? I recently upgraded my master cylinder and am having a similar concern. Either I suck at bleeding...or I'm missing something :-/ |
