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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through December 27, 2010 » Low Speed Brake Shudder « Previous Next »

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Drawkward
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The condition is not a new one to me, but this time it's not going away. After my last trackday, I noticed a low speed (under 15mph) shudder in the front brakes when applying them fairly hard (not enough to do a stoppie though).

During the trackday I noticed the worst pad feel and brake fade I've ever felt. The pads I'm using are the EBC HH pads and I'll never recommend them to anyone who rides track. They're horrible. Absolutely horrible.

I have yet to replace them with the extreme pros, but I hope that solves my brake fade problem and low speed shudder.

Last time I had this problem after a TD it went away by just using the brakes really hard all the time, but it's no longer working. I have yet to take the pads off to inspect them but I wanted to come on and see if anyone had an idea (I've read all the other threads regarding this).

JD: The rotor edges are now a darker tan color as opposed to a yellow color like they were earlier in the season. I'm definitely braking harder now and the EBC HH pads aren't doing shit for me. I'm still going to use the bike on the street next season but I think the Extreme Pros will be fine if I'm just a tad bit more careful. I just can't continue to use these HH pads on the track. Lever feel is completely gone by 4 sessions and it's becoming dangerous.

I'm considering upgrading the rotor and hardware after I do the pad change if it doesn't help the problem I'm having. What do you think? Which rotor?
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Avalaugh
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

follow my threads soon, nearly got all my parts together.

Front end conversion
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Drawkward
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Conversion to what? Erik Buell Racing stuff?

Looking forward to it. I can't afford Brembo MC so I hope that's not what you did or else I'll be super jelly!! LOL
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Avalaugh
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, gone Yamaha front shocks, wheel, and calipers, custom yokes and a MAUGURA RADIAL MC

About £1000 conversion and alot of DIY man hours : )
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Hammer71
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That explains the different front wheel in Powdercoat thread.
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01lightning
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doc, take a look at your hardware-Once I had an issue with my CR. The square spacers were twisting in the stays not allowing the rotor to float properly.. I actually came off track once because i felt a vib and heard a noise. Thats when I found the twisting spacers.
I got the Erik Buell Racing 5 mil race rotor and hardware package with the performance friction ebr pads($150 i think)and it works great.
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only cure is a new rotor with new hardware. The stock one works fine unless it's a bike you race more than you ride on the street. Just had mine replaced under the ESP and the bike is like new again.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have uneven brake drag when you manually spin the wheel with the front on a stand?

So, I do recommend the 5mm finned rotor and a new rotor mounting kit from Erik Buell Racing. That's the best collection of parts.

Then, get a dial test indicator and a magnetic base. Hang it on a fork tube (anything else and there's enough give in the setup it's hard to get an accurate reading) and rotate the front wheel with the DTI checking lateral run out. I usually find a path just inside of the rotor bolt that doesn't have an air hole and doesn't hit the bolt.

I look for "less than 10" or so, and if I find a spot out of whack, I have various thicknesses of shimming washers I buy from McMaster and I'll put one of those in place of the copper washer in the EB kit. Most of the time I can shim in a rotor to about 5-10 thous of run out, and holy mother is that some smooth action when you do.

The EBC Extreme Pro pads are a big step above the basic EBC, however I'm moving on from them myself to EB Race Pads, with testing to be done on a couple of different compounds tomorrow -- I have a day off and it's 70F, so track time!!!

I've got a couple of extra sets of the Extreme Pro I'd let go cheaply enough. You in Texas?
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Poppawheelie
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey Jdugger, I am in Oklahoma(don't hold it against me i was born in Texas), how much for the pads, got anything for an xb too?
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No XB pads. Where in Oklahoma? I'm going to be at the track tomorrow in Slidell, TX, and that's only about an hour into Texas. Bring your bike and $150 and a track day is yours, too. : )

If you pick up, $50 a set, and I've got two sets. These are the EBC Extreme Pro race pads. If you make me go to the post office and mail them... well, hell, I'll probably just leave them in my spares case.
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Drawkward
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm in Houston, way too far to pick the pads up, but thanks for the offer.

I'll do all the testing and whatnot on the front wheel after Christmas when I get the time. I figured the 5mm rotor was what you were going to say, just wasn't sure, but thank you for chiming in.

01 and Mountain: I figured new hardware would be in the mix too. I've been to the track 11 times this year so I'm guessing it's time for an upgrade!
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those drive bushings mentioned earlier (the ones that go crooked) are a wear part, and they are especially prone to twisting and wear using the 08/09/10 mounting hardware.

The new hardware that holds the rotor rather rigidly is a major upgrade and highly recommended.
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Drawkward
Posted on Tuesday, December 14, 2010 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's what I'm gonna upgrade. The rotor, pads and hardware. If that doesn't work I'm gonna light my bike on fire and stand over it as it burns and weep.

Well...maybe not that, but I'll be disappointed.
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