| Author | Message | ||
     Boogiman1981 |
well even though i have an 08R i went ahead with the add a wire idea. i know that we have been told the case of the r/r is electrically isolated. that being said i was thinking that there may be a lack of good conduction path from the subframe back to the battery. as the main ground cable goes straight to the main frame at the pivot. so i added a 12ga wire from the top lug on the r/r mounting straight to the neg post on the battery. let it warm about half way then road it around. voltage holding steady 14+ with high beams on. pulled into the driveway and it was still holding a steady 14v. let it sit for a while on the side stand both fans running and high beams on. basically max draw vs least output and it took a while for it to start dropping but would nearly immediately begin to rise once the rev's were brought up. i used the r/r lug as it was there and easily accessed. so far i think that the additional grounding wire is a good thing even if only moderate returns are realized. on this same idea when i was in there i looked closely at the stator wires and one of them is turning brown on the stator side of the plug. warranty is up in jan... | ||
| Bueller4ever |
It did nothing for me. I even ran an extra ground wire from the battery to one of the mounting holes for the passenger pegs and it didn't make a difference. I did learn that the fans don't run at all when the battery light and check engine light come on.  Coolant temp jumps up really quick at stoplights. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
lol i bet it does!! maybe only helps if grounding to the subframe is an issue? i dunno i am going to add updates to this tomorrow after i've ridden to work in the am in stop and go for nearly 8 miles | ||
| Sparky |
If you want to know if an additional ground wire does something, remove one end of the external ground wire, then take a voltmeter and put one lead on the unattached wire and the other lead on the point where this wire would go. Start the bike and see if the voltmeter shows any voltage potential. I would be surprised if there is anything other than 0.0 VDC indicated. No voltage would mean that it makes no difference whether the ground wire is connected or not. However, if there is a significant voltage indicated, that could mean that there is some unwanted resistance between the battery negative post and the engine case which is where the batt negative cable goes. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
hey whats the link for the thread with the how to pics? i think my stator is going out...AGAIN...and i wanna see if this might relieve the symptoms Thank You Jake | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
hey sparky was gonna do that last night but go to cold so i will today after work. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
new buell owner - but not new to motorcycles (yea I am a rice burner type of 30 + years) recently brought home a 1125r from the salvage yard (the ODO sez 641 miles)- I was able to ride it home with wifey in my pu following... upon dissection of the seat and what was left of the plastics the VR was "floating" in mid air being retained by only 1 nut ready to totally unscrew from the mounting stud. a)the design uses the mount as a heat sink - there is thermal grease between the VR and the mount - the VR must be "tight" against the mounting plate for the design to work efficiently. b)the self locking (acorn type)nuts MAY be failing due to heat generated by the VR - the nuts anneal (soften) and the grip on the stud loosens (I'm assuming that this is why my VR was floating under the seat) - the nuts unscrew due to vibrations (1125s vibrate?) c)simple fix is to buy some 6mm x 1mm nuts (yes they are metric don't try and put a 10-24 or 1/4-28 nut from home depot on it)at the autoparts store and double nut the VR to the plate. (a single nut + loctite won't work the heat will destroy the loctite- nut will unscrew) d) if upon inspection your fasteners are loose - 1) tighten and double nut or 2) remove the VR - check for scratches/damage on the mounting surface - If scratched - clean off the thermal grease - use some sand paper or emery cloth and a sanding block and knock off the burrs - apply new Thermal Grease(Radio Shack has some - it is used on CPUs and the big heatsinks in our computers - or a good auto parts store may have some as GM used it on mounting their ignition modules in the distributor back in the '80s.)and double nut the VR to the plate...don't know if VR failure or overheating causes the stator to fail....but Honda had similar problems on their '08 CBR1000RR - new stators had to be retro fitted on those bikes - on late model VFRs (1999- 2001??)the VRs would over heat and the battery would be to weak to start the bike. For those of you who know how to solder - a suggested fix can be found in this thread as it retro fits VRs from newer jap bikes ( MOSFET type VRs) to those bikes having charging issues SCR type VR. http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenance-tips-and-tri cks-for-your-sprint/115955-upgrade-regulator-recti fier-install.html in the above link is a reference to "eastern beaver" http://www.easternbeaver.com/ he supplies pre made harnesses that could be spliced in to the existing harness (yes cut and splice - solder those connections and use heat shrink!)so you can plug into a FH012 voltage regulator - NOTE the mechanical mounting may take some work - so please don't think the FH012 VR is a plug an play type fix - it doesn't require the mounting plate to act a heat sink - but you should solidly mount it so it doesn't bounce around under our seat....good luck - gotta tackle the weepy clutch cylinder next... | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
well so far the split acorns are doing their job the backing plate doesn't seem to have good contact though so i will ahve to flatten it out some to help it make better contact. and being as though this is an 08r i'm not likely to run into trouble but with seeing that wire turning brown i am a bit concerned as a new stator gets very spendy. looks like something else to check into this weekend |
