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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through October 18, 2010 » New 08 1125r owner - comments / questions « Previous Next »

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Bassettkyle
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I pulled the trigger and traded my cbr for the buell.
A few thngs i have noticed, some i have read about on this forum.

1. I check the oil and it seemed high, I had it to the dealer for a safety and they also confirmed it was WAY too high. The previous dealer had more than 4l in the bke. The dealer made the comment i should check inside te air box as it is most likely covered in oil. They also had regular mineral oil in the bke, i plan to switch to synethic next time i change the oil.
Question . What can too much oil do to the engine? Would it cause it to run hotter? Would synthetic oil cause the bike to run cooler?

2. The back break sucks and has very little play in it. I read this on the site and not sure there is anything i can do about it?

3. The heat, I read the bike runs hot but man on man it is hot. Today I came home and could smell gas. I opened the cap very slow and noticed the gas was boiling. This seems crazy but somehow common? And not bad for the bike? I was using 94 oct gas. It was only about 70 today, I can imagine in the middle of the summer when it is 100. The bike was only showing mid 90's on the dash.
QUestion. Anything i can do about the heat? Doen the ebb ecru help. This much?

4. This bike is not happy going slow, i get stuck on the highway and it is not fun crawling along in 1st gear. I hear and ecru will fix this quite a bit.

5. Notice the throttle has lost of play in it, especially when I am on the road at about 5k rpm. In some cases I roll it a bit and get nothing as soon as i hit the spot the bike get a big blast. Maybe the ecru will help this as well? Is it easy to a dust the throttle?

Outside of this stuff the bike is sweet. The heat is my biggest complaint. Thanks n advance for the feedback. O i am in Toronto Canada.

Kyle
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Bassettkyle
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry about the typo's i am on my touch and it sucks for typing
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Red93stang
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't use 94 octane gas, they run better with 91. 94 octane caused weird problems with mine anyway. When I went back to 91 all the little weird problems went away.
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. I think it mostly just makes a big mess. Syn or Dyno is likely to be just fine in this bike as long as it's decent quality and changed frequently enough.

2. The back brake is fine. It's not intended to slow the vehicle, anyway, and it does the usual tasks of holding the bike on a hill, doing 180 degree turns in parking lots, etc., just fine.

You could replace the master cyl and even caliper and make a much stronger brake for the bike, but my advice would be to become familiar and comfortable with the front instead, which is far more effective.

3. Yea, they run hot. And, yea, all that motor heat cooks the frame and heats the gas. Best thing you can do is let the bike cool before you put it away so it doesn't stink up your garage.

On the 09 models, the intriduced frame insulation on the inside of the frame and it helps reflect the motor's heat. You can get the kit for an 08. Also, solutions like stomp grips and tech spec grips work well for insulating you from the heat, but it's definitely a valid complaint of the bike.

The Erik Buell Racing ECU is an option, but it will only make a very modest different in temps. And, you don't really have the option of dropping the coolant and running striaght water where you live. That's another common small help.

Personally, I live in Texas, I DO ride in 100+ heat, and you know what, I notice the heat more on cooler days that hotter ones! My advice would be to ride faster or come down here for a summer and get some hair on your chest : )

4. No, it's not happy going slow. Lots of people here will tell you the bike runs way better at low RPMs on the Erik Buell Racing ECM. It probably does. I'll tell you that the bike runs better when it's being ridden hard, as you have already discovered. Spank that thing.

5. Try taking the slack out of your throttle cables. Also worth while is pulling the airbox and just making sure the push/pull of the cables is in balance and everything is tight and working smoothly at the throttle bodies.
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Stevasaurus
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The first thing I thought as I read this is, "Does it even have the updated factory map on the ECU?" It sounds like the '08's of old. If a dealer is able to overfill the oil, I wouldn't have much faith in them regularly hooking it up to Digital-Tech either.
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Smit3833
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bike runs much much better IMO with the Erik Buell Racing ecm. Not as much engine braking so its easier to control and not as choppy with the throttle. It also starts up much better when hot. In general the power band is a lot smoother too. I have a 2008 1125R, previous bike was a gsxr 750. When I first got it the throttle was tricky to get used to and it ran like poop below 4 or 5k rpm.
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Bassettkyle
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It does have all the updates and it does have the new maps. The dealer who did the oil somehow has a 4l and 1l jug on the warranty invoice. They had put a whole new head on the bike as it was leaking oil a bit I was told. I use a different dealer now close to my house who seems to know a lot about the bike.

I got this bike off an 83 year old believe it or not. He just purchases a s1000 r BMW. If I can even get my leg over it at 83 I will be a happy man.

Thanks for the feedback. I am going to order the ecu forusre.
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Rhinorear
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where might one find that frame insulation kit for an 08 that you talk of?
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Red93stang
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dealer can order the kit or people are using a dynomat type production on the inside of the frame.
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Smoke4ndmears
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Simply turning off the closed loop feature with one of the software tools like ecmspy or tunerpro makes a world of difference to the driveablity of the bike.

Do a bleed of your back brake -mine had little travel and I had learned to live with it, but the issue was the cylinder was sticking. Go figure. Even then it's only as much rear brake as you really need.

Enjoy your '08!
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Ratsmc
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your rear brake is capable of working like the rear brake on any bike: it will stop you just not very fast.

Not to start the rear brake argument again but you can and should be able to use the rear but you need to bed it in. Find some space and get a little speed then hit just the rear until it does something. Hold it until you are nearly stopped. exception: if you have to hold it for a long, long time be careful not to overheat it.

When I got my CR I complained about the rear being completely useless. After the dealer told me "they designed it that way so that people don't lock it up" I came here and found the answer.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock exhaust also blows a lot of soot on it. I swear that it works better now with my Keda pipe.
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Stirz007
Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on Jdug's comments (he's got a couple in his stable I think). I also have an '08 and run it fairly hard - mostly track and canyons. It just isn't a commuter bike, IMO. Some other thoughts:

Replacing the chip really makes a difference at low rpm - 2-4000 range really improves. You will find that now you can run 2nd where before it was 1st.

As I understand it, the rear brake is somewhat of a hold-over from H-D. You just have to work it harder than some other bikes. You CAN lock it up - at least I have.

Enjoy..
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Bassettkyle
Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 10:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the feedback. I think to get started here is the list of stuff I am going to do.

1. Get the ebr ECM
2. De nod my bike. I don't want to do much so plan to get the pug and just unplug it. I don't see much value in taking it out outside of saving weight. Let me know if I am missing something else? What happens if i take if off with no plug?
3. Get k&n filter
4. Tail elimination kit
5. I want to do something with the exhaust. Long term get a pipe but to start try to find some turnout's or get some welded on. I read you can get them on ebay but can't find them. If someone has a link that would help. Don't like how it blows on the rear wheel and break. Or other ideas?
6. Get a service manual and get to know the bike by taking it a part this winter?
7. Need to play with suspension and get the best setup for my 200lb but. Any sudgestions that people like?
8. Oil change and actually put the proper amount of oil in the bike.
9. O and last I need to take the entire air box off as i suspect it has oil all inside it as they had way to much oils in the bike. After you take the filter off how hard is It to get the rest off? I saw
The posting to make sure you unhook the clip or you may snap the file line. Any other tricks? I am told there is a small place for oil to go but have never been inside it as of yet.
10. Drive the shit out ofit before the snow comes.

Thanks for the feedback, one of the best bike boards I have ever used.

Kyle
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Dannybuell
Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I read here that the Erik Buell Racing ECM doesn't even see the noid so the plug would only benefit you when using the stock ECM.
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Xodot
Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Kyle, Nice to have another Canuck on the board. Welcome to the insanity. This is a great source of knowledge and support as you have already found out. If you are planning to ride north to the Muskokas for a tour, drop me a line and we can try to hook up.

You asked "In some cases I roll it a bit and get nothing as soon as i hit the spot the bike get a big blast."

I have noticed that too and thought it was just my lack of finesse. Now I'll have to check throttle bodies and cables.

If you are going to be doing any work yourself, get the factory service manual.
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Bassettkyle
Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Xodot, the first time it happened was after a fillup. I had put 94 oct in the bike. Sounds like 91 is better. I checked the cables and notice when the bike is off the throttle is quite tight. It is only when I drive it it seems to have a whack of play in it. I have to turn my hand quite a bit before the thing actually does something. It seems different depending on gear and rpm.
I gave the feeling that the ECU may help but as you can see i am real new to the bike. Will let you know if I head north some weekend.
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Smoke4ndmears
Posted on Monday, October 11, 2010 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the ebr ecm does still have active intake and muffler control (says it on the documentation). it just doesnt throw a code when you remove it. same as the o2 sensors.
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Blower1
Posted on Monday, October 11, 2010 - 02:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I,ve got a -08 1125R with following induction modifications:

-denoided
-Twin Motorcycles velocity stacks
-Fuel Solutions tune
-K&N air filter

There is a huge difference in power and rideability, when comparing with stock bike.
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