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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through September 14, 2010 » Ordered the barker exhaust & Erik Buell Racing ecm to match « Previous Next »

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Bad_boy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have not received my service manual yet, is the ecm plug and play?
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ECM comes with instructions.
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Bad_boy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks Froggy
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Jules
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Umm - no it doesn't.. At least not in my case.

But it is pretty much plug and play:

Disconnect the battery earth (not absolutely essential but good practice)

Remove the OEM ECM

Install Erik Buell Racing one (carefull when screwing the nut back onto the post, they occassionally break)

Reconnect Battery Earth

Do a TPS and check values

Have a beer
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine didn't come with instructions, but it is simple.

Disconnect battery.
Remove stock ECM.
Install new ECM.
Reconnect battery.
Reset tps.
Start bike, idle for 10 minutes.

Barker install--



On right side of muffler: 
1.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for rear muffler mount. This bolt is not reused for installation. 

2.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for front muffler mount which also happens to be the lower heat exchanger support fastener. Nut on back side of this bolt is captive so it stays installed in stock muffler and you don't need a wrench to hold it. When stock muffler is completely removed, this bolt gets reinstalled along with the nut and toothed lock washer that comes with Barker's kit to re-secure the lower heat exchanger mount. 

3.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt that supports engine just below brake peg. Remove spacer. This is where the Barker's oval bracket mounts. It takes the place of the spacer, so put it away for storage in case you want to revert back to stock. 

4.) Loosen two clamps for the header/collector. 

On left side of muffler: 
5.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for rear muffler mount that you can see through the holes of the idler pulley for the final drive belt. May need to move the bike forwards/backwards to be able to see bolt. This bolt is not reused for assembly. 

6.) Remove 6mm hex head bolt for front muffler mount which is the same situation for the other side: it doubles as the lower heat exchanger mount, except the nut is not captive. You have to shimmy a 13mm (I think) open end wrench under the heat exchanger to get to it ... not hard at all. This bolt and nut gets reused after stock muffler is removed, though it's much easier to get to is after the stock muffler's gone. 

Barker's: 
7.) Loosen muffler clamps and make sure they're oriented right for easy future loosening/tightening. 

8.) CAREFULLY pre-install oval bracket on Barker's can with the mount to the right side. I recommend using the spacer that you removed from the stock mount to keep the bracket spread apart. The can will scratch VERY easily. No worries though ... surface finish can be restored with some 0000 steel wool, polish, or green scotch bright pad and WD-40. 

9.) Slide collector over headers and orient bracket correctly and tighten up!! 


I'll add to the above to loosen up the right foot peg assembly as it makes lining up the Barkers much easier.
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They just assume you Brits are illiterate : )


After receiving multiple emails regarding this question, they started including the instructions, which is pretty much what you posted but in more detail.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy,
Really, this Brit not long ago got his, no instructions and read recently on this board that prolonged idle was a bad idea, but is suggested above, seem to remember the advice not to idle for prolonged period came from a copied email from Erik Buell Racing talking about the stator issue.
Got to love the internet.
Just what do you believe?
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The reason for the 10 minute idle is so the iac will reset itself.
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Jules
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the e-mail said leaving the bike idling for 20 mins was a bad idea (but you could leave it idling connected to a battery tender if you like)..

10 mins shouldn't do it any harm.

I'm not illiterate, my parents were married thank you very much LMAO
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Stimbrell
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got it, if stuck in traffic for ten minutes, no problem, if twenty minutes plug in battery tender, hang on, where do I plug in a battery tender in traffic?

Just kidding.............

Maybe....................

Ish......................

Seriously, instructions from the people themselves would be really good.
Just a thought.

Another thought, if I had done what is said on the internet I would have disconnected the BAS, it was the totally correct thing to do, was required, said so, on the internet, who is going to argue with that!

(Message edited by stimbrell on September 03, 2010)
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm just forwarding what the info I used to do my installs. If you don't want an answer from the Internet, don't ask questions on the Internet.
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stimbrell, congratulations on reading old information! : )

The ECM does now come with printed instructions, and it does say to idle it for 10 minutes. Whether you do or not is up to you.

The BAS and kickstand switch used to need to be disconnected, but Erik Buell Racing changed that as most trackday riders are using street bikes. I hope this clears it up : )


Badlionsfan, thats twice in one thread you replied in the same minute as me! Stop reading my mind : D

(Message edited by froggy on September 03, 2010)
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Stimbrell
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy,
My point was my recently received ecm did not come with printed instructions and I only had bad advice from the Internet to go from, any chance anyone can scan these instructions and post them for us illiterate people that never had the benefit of receiving them. helping out fellow Buell 1125 owners, how good would that be.
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Install ECM, do TPS reset, idle 10 minutes. Thats basically what it says.
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you un-fix the charging harness, you don't need the battery tender at idle......


<grin>

R
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Jules
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stimbrell - what you read about the BAS was correct at the time it was posted who's to say that if new instructions were scanned and posted now they'd still be valid in a year?

There's a LOT of info available on the internet, that hard part is making sure what you have available is accurate when you need it...
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Jules
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you un-fix the charging harness, you don't need the battery tender at idle......

No but you may need a new stator shortly thereafter if you leave it that way...
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Jules
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh Balls - sorry PLEASE don't let me turn this into a bad stator thread... it was meant tongue in cheek
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Jayz
Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, i got mine a couple of weeks ago and no instructions but I live in Oz so that might explain it! I got some good advice from the threads here and other forums which helped me through it.

My tips...

1. Get some good tools. I ended up investing in a good set of ball ended Allen keys (allows you to remove the bolts at an angle) and also a good set of open ended spanners. The bolts are really tight and one of the front exhaust mounts requires an open ended spanner to hold a nut while you undo the Allen bolt.

2. Get some ear plugs. The Barkers are loud even with the 1.5" quiet core. I started the bike with just the headers on just to see how loud it would be. What an experience!!!

Good luck!
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2010 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

maybe all literate? :-)
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Augustus74
Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2010 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Install ECM, do TPS reset, idle 10 minutes. Thats basically what it says.

If you don't let the bike idle for 10, it will still learn the new map, just take longer right??
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2010 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty much. Honestly, though, you can plug the ECM right in with no fooling about, battery still attached, no IAC reset, no TPS reset and go like a raped ape. I know because that's how I did it the first time.

But safety first...follow the instructions.

Instructions are great for people that don't like to break stuff and figure it out later.

(Message edited by mountainstorm on September 04, 2010)
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Jayz
Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2010 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to mention that I had my engine light come on after I swapped my ECM. When I checked the logs in diag mode I found a few errors. I later found out that this is common and will clear itself out after 50 starts. The engine light went off after the first start.
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Sekalilgai
Posted on Monday, September 06, 2010 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just did the same...Barker exhaust and matching Erik Buell Racing ECM....the 'reduced braking' option works with me..on-off throttle transitions are ever so much smoother now...

Only have a short ride in so far.
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