| Author | Message | ||
     Cocobueller |
620 service done at the dealer, I specified synthetic oil, when making the appointment and when I arrived at the dealer. Went to pick it up and purchased SE synthetic to top off when needed. A checked the oil a few days later and it was at MIN level, so topped it up with the syn. Later was reviewing the receipt and noticed standard type oil noted there. Should I change the oil at this time or is it ok to mix these? I thought I would call and ask them what they used, but I'm sure they don't have a clue. | ||
| Datsaxman |
I think they got regular PB on your synthetic chocolate...most are compatible, but I would find out. At this point, you have a mix. Check the stick. If it looks ok, I would just go with it. But I use extended change intervals for synthetic. Not so the dinosaurs. Depends on the specific oils, I think. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I would assume the "worst"--that they used regular oil. I've read that ~1500 miles is a good time to switch to synthetic (under the assumption that regular oil is better for break-in and that break-in is mostly complete by 1500 miles) and that's what I adhere to. There is no problem mixing synthetic and non-synthetic oil other than the non-synthetic negates most of the benefits of the synthetic oil. I'd wait until ~1500 miles and then switch to synthetic oil. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
The mix of oil you have is fine- mineral and semi-synthetic. Change it within 3,000 miles and then put 100% fully-synthetic oil in there (there is not an H-D branded fully synthetic oil). Search BadWeB for synthetic oil before asking everyone's opinion- it never turns out well. Short answers to common questions: Syn3 is semi-synthetic made by Citgo. You cannot void your warranty by using non-H-D branded oil (as long as it meets or exceeds the specifications [type, class, grade] listed in your owners manual). You can buy 100% fully-synthetic oil for less than the price of Syn3 (and avoid supporting Hugo Chavez in the process). Mineral oil is fine during break-in and should have no issues for the life of the motor as long as you change it every 3,000 miles (or less based on oil analysis). Do Not leave mineral oil in your bike for the full 6,000 mile interval as suggested in the manual. At a minimum semi-syn should be used for an extended interval such as this, and 100% full-syn is good for much more. With an oil analysis, 100% fully-synthetics can last up to 10,000 miles or 24 months (or longer based on individual circumstances) and therefore provide superior performance at a lower cost. Yes, you most likely have more knowledge about your bike than the guys at the dealership. Be polite, but don't believe a word they say. And no, it's not going to get any better... | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
Amsoil and Redline are "true" synthetics and I believe them to be superior products based on several UOAs (Used Oil Analysis). The cost for each varies from about $6 to $12 depending on where you buy it. Even at $12 a quart I bet it is much cheaper than having a dealer change the oil. | ||
| Jng1226 |
Gofastalot99 - in your experience with UOA, have you heard any comparisons of Amsoil and Redline with Motul 300V? I hear good things about that oil as well. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
Sorry Jng1226, I haven't done anything with Motul and haven't seen much either. I'm not impressed with their website, which does not seem to give very much information about the oil. I've heard its good but I won't use it without knowing even the most basic specs. | ||
| Joshinga |
hey not to thread jack but have any of you guys had issues using repsol? | ||
| Ratsmc |
Holy crap. Another which oil is better topic? Just go to Bobistheoilguy.com so you don't have to rely on the "experts" here. (that's not meant as a jab at anyone, just noting the general path these topics take) (Message edited by RatsMC on August 17, 2010) | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
Yes, BITOG is the place to go to learn about oil. I agree. You will get even more opinions over there. I spread about 400-500++ hours of reading over about two years to separate the crap/marketing/fanboys from the reality. A lot of it comes down to what *you* personally want out of an oil. Performance, price, extended drain, max HP, max protection, etc. There really is no be-all-end-all oil for every situation or wallet. | ||
| Vinb |
If I were you coconbueller I would go back to your dealer and have them change the oil and filter asap. The bike came with synthetic from the start and than you asked for it now its up to them to make it right. That's what I'd do that is and I'd try for free stuff for there stupidity. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Just do it yourself and move on. Unless my SM breaks something or left something in a dangerous condition I don't even bitch about it. I've got the tools and time to redo the work to my own satisfaction. For instance I have never gotten the bike back with enough oil in the crankcase. I always have to top it off with at least 250cc. But I can count on them being consistent about it...so I can deal with that. | ||
| Cocobueller |
Hd review called and asked if had any negative. issues about my last service. I said really no but? I would not have said anything but as I plan to do most of my own service and couldn't resist. I told them the issue that started this thread and the service writer called 4.5 minutes later and said, put in the SE semi syn as requested but never got around to changing the bill, so you got "it" for free. So there, I got "it" for free. just trying to figure out what "it" is? It all depends on what the definition of "it" is,is? |
