| Author | Message | ||
     Guard_rail |
She had a weak charge to begin with and never charged during the 2 hour ride. Voltage just kept getting lower and lower 10.9 was the lowest I saw then she died. I jumped her rode home got 6 blocks from my house and she gave up the ghost. I tried to jump her and then she said theft error. What do I do now.???????? | ||
| Ccryder |
Put her on a battery charger. At that level you may need to start off with real battery charger and then switch over to a trickle charger. | ||
| Guard_rail |
Thanks cc. Hottest day in history of Philly and I decided to ride to Baltimore. Every light on the bike was lit at some point. But when the temp light came on that's when I really got scared. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Kyle,only use a 2amp or smaller charger,the AGM batteries don't stand the higher amps.On a battery tender it may take 24hrs. | ||
| Guard_rail |
The dealer told me that Harley told them to disconnect the relay and the bike will start to charge itself. So where is the F'n relay cause I'm tired of pushing this thing 500 pounds of the best bike ever made next to the 1190 | ||
| Guard_rail |
Slow and steady wins the race....so I'll do the trickle charger. Plus I don't have a Charger | ||
| Dannybuell |
Stator? | ||
| Guard_rail |
Stator not charging battery because of charging harness update!!! Where is that relay so I can unhook it??? | ||
| Usanigel |
check this link http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/582102.html?1280009675 Has pictures of what you're looking for. | ||
| Guard_rail |
So I gotta remove the whole seat?? | ||
| Usanigel |
Comes off easy. Remove the read pad. Lift the corners gently on the drivers seat and remove the two torq screws. Be careful when re-installing the screws as the threads are soft and easy cross threaded. | ||
| Brumbear |
bring it to h-d tell em take it out if they give you crap just be persistant ride it till the stator goes bad and then send it out and get it rebuilt. | ||
| Guard_rail |
Just did the unplugging of the relay. Start the countdown!!! | ||
| Guard_rail |
Bike was on trickel charger all night and day the light was green on it. Soon as I turn the bike on engine light and battery light plus a system voltage warning. Getting numbers around 11.8 to 12.0 | ||
| Ccryder |
When batteries are almost or fully discharged a trickle charger may not have enough to bring it back to full charge. Sometimes you need a 2amp charger to get it close to full charge and then use the trickle charger. Been there done that. Neil S. | ||
| Guard_rail |
Switched harness back on the side of the road and she didn't start back up. Waited 5 mins and she started then I watched the voltage go down to 9.5 (lowest ever). She cut off at the first red light I couldn't run through. I'm going to jump her to make it home. How long should I keep the cables on??? | ||
| Froggy |
Don't bother, your stator is fried. You won't get far. I recall you having issues a few months ago with the stator, I told you then it was on the way out. | ||
| Guard_rail |
I made it home. She she dropped to 12.0 and held steady for 2.5 miles then dropped as low as 11.5. I think it's the battery | ||
| Guard_rail |
Dealer said stator was fine a month ago and No dark wires. I've had the harness since 310 miles. | ||
| Guard_rail |
I made it to work this morning on a jump and 7 hours of trickle charge overnite. 12.0 for the first 3 miles then lower down to 10.8 by the time I got to work. So what battery do I need??? | ||
| Theeman23_69 |
same problem only they have switched my harness four times. I am currently at Adamec HD because the volts dropped to 8.5 and the bike died. They plug the harness in and dont get full voltage. they read the voltage straight from the stator and read good voltage. I dont know what to do or tell them and I dont think they know what to do or tell me. Any suggestions? | ||
| Theeman23_69 |
**About to be guilty of thread Hi-jacking** I am an engineering student at Embry-Riddle in Daytona, so I am often guilty of trying to solve problems. So after searching a bunch of threads, my understanding is that the stator is of a faulty design, and HD doesn't want to pay to have new stators designed. I also found a thread that said that the stator is oil cooled, if I understood it right. And since the stator over-heats under low RPM because of lack of oil cooling, would it make sense to upgrade the oil cooler? My question would be does anyone know if the oil going to the oil cooler is fed directly by the oil pump and then goes to the motor, or is it before the pump and sucks hot oil through it to feed the oil pump. The reason this is important is due to the type of oil cooler I would need to acquire. Does this make sense to the knowledgeable people here, or am I thinking with retarded gerbils running on wheels backwards? Feedback is greatly appreciated, snarky posters need not reply. | ||
| Guard_rail |
All I know for sure is this battery is atleast a year and a half to 2 & a 1/2 years old. And no it's not fix'n the problem but atleast I'll make it home. | ||
| Kirb |
Theeman, Engineer of 15+ years. Improved oil cooler isn't your answer. Improved oil flow ~COULD~ be, but the local heating of stator windings is melting the varnish. This could happen within the stator winding on each pole, so more oil may not help. The varnish may melt at 150-200 deg C depending on the type used. The oil is no where near that hot. Dropping the oil a few degrees isn't going to help. A stator that operates better at lower RPMs is required...like the 08 stators. They screwed up the low RPM running for more wattage capability. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Theeman, have them disconnect the harness and see if it charges the battery. If voltage from the stator is good, but no good at battery, then voltage regulator should be the next thing to check, no? | ||
| Guard_rail |
Ok new battery did good for 15 miles. Voltage would drop a stop signs and red lights to 12.5 then climb back to 13.1 so I put her on rt. 309 for a quick lap and she felt good (no shakes) sounded good ( no stuttering) voltage never went down till I came to the city. Stop and go traffic lights kept it at 12.5 to 12.7 and then turned her off for 20 mins and she refused to come back on. So I jumpped her and road home.....the battery wasn't even an hour old and they said they trickled it once a week prior to selling it to me. And I pulled(disconnected) the harness when I put the new battery (Message edited by Guard_rail on July 27, 2010) | ||
| Blk09r |
Could the problem be this http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/581926.html?1279805060 | ||
| Theeman23_69 |
They disabled the 0507 bulletin and it charges fine now, but this doesn't solve the problem with the stator. Kirb, is there anything that you can advise to do with the coating of the stator? i would think that if the coating melting is the problem, a band-aid would be to recoat with something that can withstand the high temperatures. I am interested in knowing what the oil temp is, especially during stop and go traffic when the coolant breaks 220 degrees. Since the stator itself is heating up past the varnishes melting point, something has to exist to coat it. This debacle cost me a days work. I had to take this course for military sportbike riders. It has to be done on the motorcycle I ride, not one i borrow. According to the owners manual, extended periods of slow speed riding or idling is not recommended because it causes a low charging condition. This basically tells me that I will never be able to complete this course because my bike cant handle this sort of course. I have to find a solution to this problem or my Chiefs are going to be all up in my keester. Bad enough with what happened today. If i cant complete the course I wont be legally allowed to ride this motorcycle because i will be in violation of the UCMJ. Im out of excuses and i need to come up with a solution. | ||
| Kirb |
As posted way back early on by me- problem could be improper iron laminations, wrong iron, too few poles, too small windings, wrong varnish, wrong magnet, wrong winding of coils, improper routing of exit wires...yada, yada. The windings are heating up, melting the varnish, and shorting out. Why are they heating? could be the iron getting hot and transfering to the windings, could be the windings getting hot themselves, etc. The harness upgrade was to take out 1/3 of the stator under low RPMs to keep the heat down. The solution is a properly designed stator that operates correctly at low RPMs. Research PMGs if you are want to know more. | ||
| Guard_rail |
So where is my ecm female connection so I can count the pin holes and make sure the dealer moved the pin | ||
| Theeman23_69 |
Left pod. |
