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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 01, 2010 » Clutch leak repair « Previous Next »

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Pmjolly
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the clutch weeping going on that everyone has been talking about. It is getting worse. It is time to fix it. I have an 08 1125R. I was able to find a repair kit (X2086.1AM)at a dealer 45 minutes away. I am going to repair the secondary actuator myself. My bike is out of warranty, and I am very mechanically inclined. What else is required besides the repair kit? I also picked up a new o-ring for the spherical nut, and a crush washer for the clutch line. They did not have an o-ring for the puck on the clutch cover. I'll have to reuse or improvise. The dealer near my home tells me there is no gasket required for the clutch outer cover. Is this true? Also, the service manual says a special tool is required to remove the spherical nut. It looks like a socket with flats on it for an open end wrench. This allows you to insert an allen wrench through the tool to keep the shaft from turning as you loosen the nut. Can I just put the bike in gear and secure the back wheel, or do I need to fabricate a tool? It will take too long to get the tool from the dealer. It always seems like something unexpected comes up when trying something like this for the first time. Thanks for the help.

Pat
Arlington, Texas
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 06:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you're all good Pat.
For the spherical nut, use a socket with a pair of vise-grips.
Put a screwdriver in the hole of the socket to hold the shaft.
The clutch cover uses the diaphragm of the "slipper" to seal, re-use.
O-ring on the pucks are for retention, not a seal, re-use
Valve cover gaskets are re-usable too.

Welcome to BadWeB.
Zack
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Pmjolly
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Zack. I was checking in while drinking my morning coffee. I feel better now that someone with experience has replied. I'm about to work on the bike. I have the factory repair manual, and I know I can fix nearly anything. I just don't like surprises. I think I'm going to make a tool for the spherical nut. It looks like this repair may become a normal routine with this bike. I'll probably weld a cheap wrench to a cheap deep socket. It's all part of the fun, right? I'll post pictures after I'm done. I'm also going to install my Erik Buell Racing ECM and K&N filter. I'm crossing my fingers on the results there. I have been REALLY happy with my Buell. I've had it nearly a year now with no complaints.

Thanks,
Pat Jolly
Arlington, Texas
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Dixopr
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Please take lots of pics Pat. This is a thread that needs some documentation cause many of us have had this issue come up. I'm waiting on parts and my weep is getting so bad that I need to top up my fluid every time I ride.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was unable to start on my bike today, other than putting the rear up on a Pit Bull stand. I figured I had time to look at what it would take to fabricate a tool for the spherical nut. When I popped the puck off the cover, I knew it was no big deal. I grabbed an offset box end wrench to see, and it fit perfectly without contacting the cover in any way. I can use the allen wrench easily through this wrench. It is nothing special. Here is a link to the exact wrench from Sears.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00944 366000P?keyword=44366&sLevel=0&prop17=44366
I will most likely tackle this project in the morning. I'll update tomorrow evening, time permitting.
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another tool that works great is GearWrench Pass-Thru ratchet/socket. See my comment made here:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/582692.html?1280092818

I've done the change for both R & CR.

I've tried the offset box end wrench - didn't work for me, but I didn't try the one mentioned above.
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Smoke
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

box end or open end wrench also works with the proper allen wrench.
tim
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Pmjolly
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got the clutch repair nearly finished today. It was really easy. All I lack is filling the fluid and bleeding the line. I also installed the Erik Buell Racing ECM and K&N filter. I also gave it fresh oil and filter. The old clutch secondary actuator had different orings on the piston, and it was really gunked up. There was also a small bit of damage to one oring. Let's see if I can post a couple of pictures.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll post pictures tomorrow. Photobucket is sloooooow tonight.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is how easy it is to get at the secondary actuator without special tools.

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Pmjolly
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let me try it this way.



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Pmjolly
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The old parts are on the left. New on the right.



Here is what the inside of the cover looked like.

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Xtreme6669
Posted on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice! Thank you for posting this up!
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Terp_bueller
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM,

Where did you find the piston kit...and how long did you wait to get the parts?
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Pmjolly
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got the parts in kit form from a Harley dealer in Corynth, Texas. They are a small dealer located about 45 minutes north of me. It was the only one they had. I called my local dealer, Longhorn Harley Buell in Arlington, TX. They had one bike waiting for the parts in the shop. They were ordering two kits to have one on the shelf. They could not tell me when they would come in. They just knew they were back ordered, and it might be a long time. They looked up the part kit on their network and found it for me at the dealer in Corynth. I immediately called and reserved the part kit. I picked it up the next day. I guess I got lucky.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not easy to see in the pictures, but the parts are nearly identical. They have two differences I can see. Th seals are shaped completely differently. The new ones have an edge to them like a windshield wiper. The old ones are more rounded in the middle. The other difference is the new parts have the sleeve anodized where the old parts have the piston anodized. I don't know how that makes any difference.
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Marcodesade
Posted on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW, my dealer in CA got my parts in within a week.
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Usanigel
Posted on Saturday, January 15, 2011 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

pmjolly,
my 1125cr seal is leaking too! I see from your photo the inside of the left lower piece looks pitted. Is this correct? If so it will destroy seals for sure. Could the leaks be down to poorly made parts?
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Mp587
Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So what all did you have to remove/replace when you did this? Did you have to drain coolant and engine oil? Also could you give me a list of the part names/numbers if you have them? Thanks!
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Mp587
Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What all do you need to remove/replace to do this job? Do you have to drain oil and coolant? Does anybody have part numbers for me?
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