| Author | Message | ||
     Thefleshrocket |
Last week, I had my 1125R on the lift in my garage. I did a cold oil level check (the bike was upright and level on the lift for a few days) and it was just a hair below the "full" mark on the dipstick. (When I'd done my last oil change with ~1300 miles on the bike, I added 2.8 quarts. I noticed the oil light come on after doing a short stoppie so I added the remaining .2 quart and I didn't see the oil light come on again. It seems like having "enough" oil in the engine prevents the oil light when doing stoppies. The bike currently has about 2500 miles accumulated.) On Saturday, I took my bike to the dealer to get the clutch leak fixed and the clutch cover replaced. I got the bike back same day and the repair seems good--no more leak, although it's only been a few days. Today while riding to work, I did a short stoppie (just brought the back tire a few feet off of the ground while almost completely stopped) and the oil light came on again for a second or two. When I pulled up to my office, I did a hot oil level check--I let the bike idle upright for 3 minutes, shut it off and held it upright for another 3 minutes. When I checked the oil, there was barely anything on the dipstick. There are two variables at work here. First, my original oil check was cold and the second one was hot, so I'll need to put the bike on the lift and leave it there overnight to do a cold check in the morning to compare the results to my last check. Second, is it possible that any oil was lost while replacing the clutch cover and simply not replaced by the dealer? I am a bit confused and concerned by seeing a full crankcase on a cold check and then almost no oil on the dipstick following a hot check. Thanks! | ||
| Dannybuell |
Wouldn't there be some oil loss with the clutch cover coming off? IDK. If so they may/may not have topped it off after the procedure was completed. They may have also seen it as overfilled and drained a bit off. | ||
| Pittsburgh_guy |
I have the same question as mine is still on the shop and I don't put that HD crap in my bike they call oil. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I did a cold oil level check (the bike was upright and level on the lift for a few days) > and it was just a hair below the "full" mark on the dipstick. Woah, waaaaaaaa too much oil! On flat, level ground, a cold check should have the oil just touching the tip of the dipstick, perhaps up to the "low" line. Stoppies will cause the light to flash briefly. Don't worry about that -- it does it under hard braking, too. At the oil level you are running, you are going to have oil *everywhere* if you actually run the bike hard. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Yeah, I hope they didn't drain the oil and fill it with the HD oil, but I don't think they would have needed to do so. I figure some oil could have been lost when doing the clutch cover (since there is probably some oil left up in the clutch plates and in that general area) but I didn't think it would be enough to make the oil level go from appearing full to being barely on the dipstick. I guess I might as well call the dealership and ask directly. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Jdugger, I've got 3 quarts total in the bike after doing an oil and filter change 1100 miles ago (and giving it plenty of time to drain the old oil). Surely 3 quarts isn't overfilled, at least not significantly, right? When I went from the 2.8 quarts that I had initially poured in at the oil change and added .2 quart to bring it up to 3 quarts total, the oil light stopped coming on under braking or stoppies. The oil light coming on might be "normal" but I feel a lot more comfortable about adding a little extra oil than having the engine be without oil pressure for a couple of seconds. (Message edited by thefleshrocket on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Jdugger |
The race guys drop the screen and filter, the put 3 quarts in and don't sweat it. I'll get some spray in the airbox at that fill level, so I'm somewhere around 2.8. If you drop the screen each change, you do get more oil out of the bike. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
What's the screen? I do change the filter and remove both drain bolts but I don't remember seeing a screen. I just called the dealership and they said that they would have drained and refilled the bike as part of the clutch cover replacement but not changed the filter. I didn't ask what kind of oil they used, but I know it's not what I had in there before. Looks like I'll be doing an oil change tonight to put my preferred oil back in. | ||
| Hack_job |
Jdugger, what makes you think that's overfull? Curious since that's how I have checked mine, and IIRC how my manual says to check the level. Just want to make sure since this is how I check before track days. From our FAQ. Perform engine oil COLD CHECK as follows: NOTE: For an accurate cold check, you must wait a minimum of four hours after the motorcycle has been run. 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick. 2. Hold the motorcycle upright for one minute. 3. While continuing to hold the motorcycle upright, remove and wipe off the dipstick. 4. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. 5. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. If oil was added, proceed to the Oil Level Hot Check procedure. | ||
| Dannybuell |
The screen is forward of the oil drain on the right side, the allen plug side. There is a plate/cap with several bolts. When that comes off and you see the oil pump with a screen. The plate/cap apparently collects any physical residue. IDK, Does the pump screen plate/cap use an o-ring or a gasket? | ||
| Jdugger |
> Jdugger, what makes you think that's overfull? 2 reasons: 1. The hot check comes out correct. 2. Any more and I blow my airbox full of oil. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Shiot! They drain the oil to fix the clutch! There's goes my afternoon! | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Can anyone else confirm that they dump and refill the oil as part of the clutch repair? | ||
| Jdugger |
You have to drop the oil on the clutch side if you are going to pull the clutch cover, yes. You can replace the piston and seals without doing that... but if you need to also pull the bit that piston moves in (can't remember the name) you have to pull the clutch cover, and that means dropping the oil. Generally, I drain the oil in to a temp container and then just put it back in. Not all 3 quarts come out. More like just under 2 quarts. It's not that bad of a job really. I could pop the clutch and swap the plates easily in an hour. | ||
| Froggy |
http://www.froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/X2086.1AM.pdf | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I just drained the oil over lunch. I put maybe 100 miles on the bike since the clutch cover was replaced, but the oil that came out looked more in line with having a thousand or so miles on it. By which I mean that maybe they did just drain the oil from the clutch side into a catch pan and then top off the bike afterward. But I'd rather be sure of what's in there for the next 5000-6000 miles rather than just hoping it's the good stuff and not the basic HD oil, so it's getting changed. I didn't see anything about draining oil in Froggy's document, though. (Message edited by thefleshrocket on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Jdugger |
> I didn't see anything about draining oil in Froggy's document, though. Go right ahead and pull the clutch cover without doing it and let me know what happens.  | ||
| Milt |
Delicious with a little balsamic vinegar, too. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I don't doubt that you're right, jdugger. I was just noting the absence of any mention of that in the service document. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I thought the service document said see service manual and that's where it says to drain the oil. I just changed my oil and it was low. I think they drained the clutch side and didn't fill it. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Does the service manual say to just drain the oil on the clutch side? If so, I may reuse my existing filter but pour in fresh oil. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Does the service manual say to just drain the oil on the clutch side? Dunno, but that's all that I do and there's not an excessive amount to deal with when you drop the clutch cover. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
It just says drain the oil. It's the first step in clutch cover removal. I reused my filter, I had about 1k miles on my oil, but 10 minutes and $30 later, i feel better. It also says to drain the engine coolant? Now I have to check the freaking coolant! Nevermind, that was for the main cover and water pump. (Message edited by Bueller4ever on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Jdugger |
> It also says to drain the engine coolant? For the clutch cover? Totally unnecessary. The service manual also wants you to drain the clutch hydraulic fluid. If you are just swapping plates, it's totally unnecessary. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
See my edit above.  I was reading the procedure for removing the right side engine case cover. (Message edited by Bueller4ever on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Al_lighton |
I just did mine and did NOT drain the oil. I did put a catch basin below the clutch cover, and when the diaphragm cover is removed, approximately a cup of oil drained. Most is still in the engine. I got my replacement parts from Erik Buell Racing. They have the hardened cylinder sleeve/ new piston, but they also modify the diaphragm cover with additional venting. I'm in the middle of bleeding it now, so I can't say how it performs different. Al |
