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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through August 01, 2010 » Ok i'm pretty sure i have an intake leak somwhere how to check « Previous Next »

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Cptncreme
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok so I had another thread where after i removed the noid i had some bad decel popping out the exhaust i have an fmf slip on but it did not pop b4 i even re-sealed it to make sure. It is getting better, but i checked my afv's and found that the ecm is trying to fatten up the front cylinder. F 115 R 100.
Prior to me removing the noid were at F 105 R 105. So how do i check for a leak on our bikes? I have taken apart and re-assembled the lower airbox multiple times double checking everything and can't see anything that I have missed. The seal seems perfectly lined up , all hoses connected properly, air filter on right. I have a smoke machine at work but not sure where i would hook it up with the airbox still together. Any input would be appreciated. I have compared pics of mine assembled to others i found on the internet and everything looks identical after i put it all back together.
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Crazyhawk99
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try spraying some wd-40 or carb cleaner around any intake areas that you suspect, while the bike is idling. If the engine surges while doing so, you have a leak in that area.
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Jng1226
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cptncreme - I just started having the same problem as you. Are you throwing a P1047 code? That is the F-R AFV Error when the difference between the 2 is too high. My AFVs are the same, F115 R100, sometimes worse. I also have a FMF and it still is not popping but I never had the P1047 code in the first 4000 miles.

I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find it, although they knew it was some kind of leak. They wanted me to bring it back with the OEM exhaust and charge me $85 to put it back on and continue trouble shooting the problem. I'm debating on whether or not to do that. Hopefully this thread will bring some answers from the more learned among us.

Jeff
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Cptncreme
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't got a code yet. I'll try spraying where i can i guess. I can do it with the airbox cover off right?
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Tcsnafu
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it is better to use a fine spray of water and listen for a lower rpm. some chemicals in sprays may not be too good for your engine. make sure none gets where the air is supposed to get in if you have the airbox off.
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Ratsmc
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The problem with water is that if the leak is small you may not even hear or notice a drop in RPM.

WD-40 has been used and recommended by mechanics for just this purpose for decades. A small amount of it will not harm your motor.
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Nattyx1
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i've used chemtool b-12 for this purpose without problem.
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Boogiman1981
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that or an unlit propane torch. does the same thing without a wet mess and any possible discoloration that may or may not occur
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Ratsmc
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good thinking.
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Cptncreme
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i got the smoke machine out and put it under the lower airbox and turned it on to see if any smoke was making it past the rubber seal and i found a few spots where it was. I tried removing and re-installing the airbox and it still leaked every time, so i put a little silicone around the areas it was leaking to seal it up. Havent run it yet(waiting for silicone to dry) but hopefully that was it
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Jng1226
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome. I hope it works. I just rode around town and now I'm in trouble. My AFVs are F 115.5 and R 90.0, the worst I've seen yet and I'm throwing the P 1047 code consistently. Also, today was the first time I heard fairly loud pops on decel when trailing throttle in gear.

I'm going to print this thread and drop it off at the dealer with the bike. That warranty is going to cover this!

Jeff
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S21125r
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cp - did you use O2 sensor safe silicone?
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Cptncreme
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes i did, but it isn't really where it would get sucked in at all anyways, its under the lip of the rubber seal on the outside of the butterflies.
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1125rrrred
Posted on Thursday, July 15, 2010 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cptncreme,

Forgive me for butting in, but I'm having a hard time following the logic here. Sealing up the airbox properly is great - keeps the intake path through the air filter to it can do its job. But it should have, for all practical purposes, no effect on the mixture. Certainly not enough to show up on your afv's. If you trace the problem to an air leak, it will most likely be between throttle body butterfly and the head, where it would have a greater effect on the mixture.

I know you've already checked hoses, but there appear to be vacum line barbs located below the throttle bodies on the intake flanges - might be good take a close look there and wherever those lines run off to.

I would also check the hose clamps securing the intake neck between the throttle body and the intake flange. If one of those clamps was not were not secure, wrestling the lower airbox on and off over the intake flange could disturb its seal.

Regards - Let us know what you find out.

Greg
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Cptncreme
Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I understand what you're saying, from what i have seen in other posts there is a line that is is blocked off by a rubber plug(where the cali can would hook up to on the front cylinder) does anyone have a pic of this tube so i can double check mine?
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Cptncreme
Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i had it all running and sprayed it with some intake cleaner, checked the rubber block off, and everything and cannot find a leak, so i dunno i guess i'll wait for the light to come on and take her in for warranty. My bro in law had similar issue and turned out to be an injector so maybe the same for me.
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Jng1226
Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cptncreme - thanks for the update. After you get 50 miles or so more on it, can you check the F-R AFVs and let us know what you are showing now?

Thanks

Jeff
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Cptncreme
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alright well here are my results after a ride yesterday. I rode on the highway for about 20'mins then some city. Stopped and met a buddy. Checked the afv's. F 110 and R 100. I thought awesome it's coming back down and it's getting better. Made the same ride home and check them again. F 121.5 R 100. WTF? no engine light yet but this shot is pissing me off now.
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Timtowtdi
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You probably have an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor. That is allowing fresh air into the exhaust, creating the pop on decel, and screwing up your A/F. Sealing the air box to TB will have no effect on your A/F.

Is this a speed density system? I know they don't have a MAF. If they have a MAP sensor, which bank is it on?
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Jng1226
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cptncreme - that is indeed disturbing, hopefully Timtowtdi's suggestion may lead to a new insight on your, and my, problem.

I dropped my 1125 off at Seminole H-D on Sunday and they called me late yesterday to say it was done. I had printed this and the previous P1047 code thread and highlighted the key suggestions of the loose rubber-plug and faulty fuel injector.

I'm on a business trip so I called to ask the service manager what was done to rectify the problem. He said the tech cleared the code, reset the TPS and test rode it and the code didn't come back on. I'm pretty disappointed as I'll bet a real $20 that it's going to come right back.

We'll see when I get home later this week but needless to say I'm yet again disappointed with my dealer...

Jeff
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Cptncreme
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya that's what they did to my bro-in law the first time he took it in for the p1047. CEL came back on the same day. These dealers don't seem to have technicians, more like, " ah it's a buell just reset everything!" mentality. When i worked at the car dealer I hated doing warranty work too since it pays the tech half time, but you have to do it or you're gonna get bad reviews and have come-backs out the ass. It's like the HD dealers don't give a shit when we bad mouth them since we own buells. They have to practically call the buell tech line every time to figure something out. Just spend the damn $$$ on training your techs on this bike HD, we're all going to get extended warranties b/c of your bullsh!t.

Ahhh ok I'm done venting.
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Cptncreme
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wonder If my O2 sensor is bad? There are no exhaust leaks b4 the sensor. I'll put the bike in diag mode and watch the F O2 sensor voltage to see what it's doing
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Cptncreme
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well just watching the o2's at idle and riding, neither seem to be dead they are reactive and crosscounting quite frequently. I unplugged the front and it seemed worse and did not throw a CEL. Not sure what else to check, but idling the TPS is jumping between 2.0 and 2.5, the fuel kpa stays around 400, the IAC steps seem to fluctuate a little around 74-88 on a hot idle, the MAP reads 2.8-2.9 Volts. Not sure what the norm readings are, but here are mine.
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Cptncreme
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The other thing I have to add is that it does not pop or spit at all when cold, only after the fans turn on, guessing thats when it goes closed loop
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Timtowtdi
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well if you don't have an exhaust leak, maybe your throttle bodies are not opening the same amount. I can't think how they are hooked up right now, but maybe one bank is getting more throttle opening than the other. It still sounds like an exhaust leak, or maybe an injector problem. I have not done any real work on mine, because it runs so well, so I am honestly not all that familiar with the induction setup. If it is an intake leak, it would need to be between the throttle body and the head. The exhaust leak would be between the head and the O2 sensor.

That is all I can come up with.
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Cptncreme
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess to see if its the fuel injector i could swap them. didn;t look hard to do them at all and see if the rear cylinder starts leaning out
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Jng1226
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I picked up my 1125 today from the dealer. I was ready for it to start backfiring and throwing the CEL within 5 minutes (as usual). I put about 35 minutes of riding and about 15 miles on it from the dealer and so far it's acting normal. I checked the AFVs after the ride and it was F 105.0 R 100.0 after starting at F 100.0 R 100.0 leaving the dealer.

I didn't get to talk to the tech who did the work but I was told all he did was "check for leaks, but didn't find any" and then just did a TPS reset. I had checked the TPS and it was showing 2.0 closed to 100 WFO.

I'll ride it again tonight and see if the AFVs fluctuate any more and report back.

Jeff
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Cptncreme
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya well I gave up and just dropped it off at the dealer I'll update when i get it back
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Rt_performance
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you don't have an intake leak you have a front cylinder maxing out the learn.
Because you have a more free flowing exhaust.
Rear cylinder always has more fuel because it is stuffed in the frame with no air flow.
Buy the FMF tuned Erik Buell Racing Ecm and don't look back.
Had the same issue with my Barker and the stock ecm.

If you Don't belive me put the stock muffler on it go ride at 50 ish mph in third gear the afv will go back to 100/100

(Message edited by R/T_Performance on July 24, 2010)
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Jng1226
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 02:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rt_performance,

I understand what you are saying but my previous 4,000 miles with the FMF and K&N filter were trouble free, with the AFV's running just about even at F 105 R 105 most of the time.

All of a sudden I started getting a CEL with a F-R AFV SYS ERROR (P1047 code) and the AFV's went to F 115.5 R 90.0 with popping on decel under load which NEVER happened before.

Having had the FMF repacked 1,000 miles ago with an FMF repack kit, I would have to believe that something else happened to cause that.

Jeff
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