| Author | Message | ||
     Milleniumx1 |
The wife just called to say the delivery guy dropped off a package from A S B. Looks like I'll have something to do tonight after everyone's asleep. Rear brake pads and an '09R Service Manual. Just enough to be dangerous  Any tips for a first-timer on the rear brake swap, beyond what's in the service manual? I've done more car brakes jobs than I care to remember, but never messed with brakes on a bike, 1125R or otherwise. Seems my H-D big twins rarely needed tires and brakes ... Mike | ||
| Froggy |
Put some masking tape on the rim if you are removing the caliper, this will prevent it from getting scratched up. | ||
| 1_mike |
The rears are very easy to do. Should take you about 10 minutes, this includes cleaning the caliper and the edge of the rotor.. How did you wear out the rears so fast? How many miles on that beast? Mike | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
My rear has worn out in 6000 miles somehow. I think the turning point was the bike sitting for two weeks - the rear pad stuck to the rotor and left quite a bit of residue behind. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
It's going to be hard to believe, but my rears are noticeably low at 2,200 miles ... The tech pointed it out when installing my new tires. I suspect I was over-using them (new to sportbikes), even more so since it seemed like they didn't really do all that much. I was shocked they were so low, lesson learned. I rode about 150 miles over the weekend and nearly had to force myself to stay off of them heading into corners. I don't think there's any defects, so we'll call it rider error to be generous. Mike | ||
| Craiga |
I got about 6k outta my rears too. | ||
| Aeholton |
Me too. | ||
| Ponti1 |
wow...just changed my rear pads for good measure at 18K about a month ago. they still had maybe 40% left on them. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Mine still have a bit of life in them, but it's down to the bottom of the wear indention indicator. Honestly, didn't realize how much I must have been using them (for no great reason) until it was pointed out to me. But now that I know, my replacement set should last much longer. Haven't cracked open the service manual yet ... Damn work eats up my fun time. Can the rears be swapped with the bike sitting on the floor, or should I whoop out a scissor jack or rear stand? Good tip on the rear wheel (masking tape). Don't want any damage to my favorite blue color. Mike | ||
| Tpoppa |
These things have rear brakes?? | ||
| Aeholton |
Milleniumx1 I put my bike on the rear stand. Piece of cake. Toughest thing is getting the hex screw holding the brake line near the rear tire. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
I've not bought a rear stand, but maybe I have a reason to now. Can it be done without one? I should have brought the service manual to the office today to fill in some of the boring moments on these conference calls! Mike | ||
| Jdugger |
A rear stand simplifies a lot of work on the bike, IMHO. Frankly, you should have a front stand, too, preferably a stem stand that uses the bike's steering stem. Watch those M8 bolts that go into the swing arm. The torque spec on them is 20ft-lb, but I long ago stripped mine out at that spec. The swing arm is made of something essentially close to pot metal, and the threads don't hold out. I drilled and re-tapped the bungs and my rear caliper now uses M10 bolts, and I fit them with SS304 fasteners at 18-ft-lbs lubricated with anti-seize. IMHO you don't need to drop the line to replace the pads -- there's enough slack to get the job done without. But, as others have commented, if you find yourself replacing the rears more or even as frequently as the fronts, you are probably not riding with good technique. There's really not much stopping power to be had on these bikes with the rear brakes at all, so unless you are taming wheelies or doing precision drill riding, you shouldn't be on the rear brake much... | ||
| Ponti1 |
preferably a stem stand that uses the bike's steering stem +1 to that...I really wish I had one of these instead of the pitbull that lifts from under the bottom of the forks. would make lots of operations much easier. | ||
| Avc8130 |
By practice a Helicoil SHOULD be used anywhere a fastener will see repeated use in cast aluminum. Some key spots on the 1125: Rear caliper mounting bolts Upper belt guard bolts Airbox bolts ac | ||
| Skntpig |
Ponti1: Pitbull sells a retrofit kit to adapt your front stand to a stem fit. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I changed out the rear pads with the bike on the side stand. Just needed to rotate the rear wheel to line up the holes to access the bolts. No need to open the brake line or remove the wheel. Just lift the caliper off the rotor, spread the pads using a pry bar (gently)extricate them and use the clips for the old pads on the new pads. I'd like to have had new clips but did not realize these are not included with the EBC pads. |
