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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through June 24, 2010 » 50,000 miles « Previous Next »

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Chameleon
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody else got close to this many miles?

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Scottorious
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

very cool....do you have a service log for the last 25000 miles? and do what do you think of the rotax after 50k? Still alive and kicking?
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Syonyk
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of the service techs up at Santa Fe is over 60k miles on his 08 1125R, and IIRC had something like 150k miles on his last Buell.

Man, I just hit 10k yesterday. :-/
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm above 40, but since making it a track bike the total number of miles is way down, while the "effective miles" is surely way up.
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Dman
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow, that's commitment to 2 wheelin'. Cool.
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Ccryder
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm at 35k s'miles.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To you high milers, have you rotated the motor to do the valve clearance check? if so what mileage
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Daggar
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I only have about 18k miles. I need to step it up.

I have rotated the engine to do the valves. I was at around 12k miles. I plan on doing it again in around 6k miles, per the manual. Well, close enough to the manual anyway. I enjoyed doing the service.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All right you Lucky Dogs!

Chameleon - What is your typical day of riding? What is your typical shift point? How long do you warm it up before taking off? What is the first five minutes rolling down the road usually like?

THX
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Stirz007
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And I'm thinking someone pulled over on the spot to get their milestone photo. Good to know what my expectations should be .... mine has a ways before hitting 50K.
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Bueller4ever
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is that on the original water pump seal?
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Chameleon
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

(Mostly) complete service log.

I think it's still the original water pump seal...At least I don't recall a service being performed related to the water pump/seal.

I virtually always warm it up before riding, but when I don't, I'm always easy on it until it does warm up.

I've been working in Downtown Seattle since Nov 30 2009 which is 35 miles each way, but I don't always ride to work. Only did 1 major trip (2,865 miles to Death Valley & back in Nov 2008 w/wife on her V-Rod) and about 5 small trips of about 400-750 miles. Mostly riding around beautiful Western Washington.

Will be getting a new fuel pump to hopefully resolve the LFL/CEL issue when it's cold. Heading to shop today.

Only did valve check at first interval. Buell factory-trained tech @ preferred shop told me it should be fine to skip the 2nd interval. Private tech told me that if it hasn't blown up yet after skipping 2nd & 3rd interval and isn't suffering power-loss that I should be fine going forward.

It's been running kind of rough lately; seems to be lean if I understand the AFV values of 116 (F) & 115.5 (R) correctly... I'll ask them to checked it out if replacing the fuel pump doesn't resolve it. Might be needing the valve job after all. Not looking forward to that bill.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chameleon - I looked at the spreadsheet, very well documented.

When you warm it up are you looking at the temp gauge or waiting for the cold light to go out?

How much $$; 1. was the first valve check? 2. is a valve job?

What is your average shift point?

THX
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great spreadsheet. What is a speedometer update? I see that quite a few times on there.
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Chameleon
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 01:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just wait for the dash to stop flashing COLD and show the gear / air temp indicator.
My usual routine is to pull the bike out of the garage and start it, then go shut the garage and finish donning my ninjaclava (awesome when it's cold out), helmet & gloves. Usually not much longer to wait after all that.

First valve check was about $750. I believe it's 8.1 hours labor just to check them.
I have no idea how much more it would cost to replace the shims, never had to have it done. Probably easily $1K if done by a H-D shop with their $90-$95/hr labor rate. If I need it done, I'll have my favorite local independent tech do it for about 37% less money and at least 50% less time.

I don't keep track of my shift points. I know they're between 4K & 10.5K. I probably typically shift between 4K and 6K. I generally avoid "lugging" the bike under 3K RPM.


Dunno where you see "speedometer" update, but the "odometer" updates are when I simply make a log entry of my odometer reading, primarily for posterity and for use in the PNWRiders.com mileage surveys for 2009 and 2010.
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Chameleon
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of the service techs up at Santa Fe is over 60k miles on his 08 1125

I'd love to see a picture of that odometer.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chameleon - THX i was worried about how long to warm up because I tend to ride with a slightly warmed up bike and gentle riding style the first few miles. With that pattern my S1 was burning oil bad at 50Kmi. What is your oil consumption like?
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 03:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i noticed you changed to the iridium cr8eix plugs, how do you like them?
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Chameleon
Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danny: Oil consumption seems to be creeping upward slowly, but not too bad. I'm still monitoring it, though I have a tendency to over-fill it slightly (between full and overfull) to compensate/buy more time.
I have found it difficult to get consistent readings of the oil level, but it's more likely due to inconsistencies on my end. I find it most consistent to check the level cold before heading to work in the morning or home in the afternoon, but that it will report different levels in the morning vs. evening due to the ambient temperature differences.

I tend to buy 4 quarts when I change the oil and (as you can see from the log) I almost always change the filter. Therefore, I use 2.7 quarts for the oil change, then top off with the remaining 1.3 quarts until the next change.
I actually ran out of oil before the last oil change, which is why I changed it early (do the math). It wasn't leaking, so it must've been burning. Could've been from the use of 10W-40 oil from late February to late May when I changed it back to 20W-50.
I neglected to replace/use the washer(s) on the oil plugs for a while until the last change, but there was no evidence of leaking. Before changing the oil last time, I bought 3 sets of those washers from American Sport Bike and have resumed using them.

One thing I'd like to mention is that I did strictly adhere to the break-in procedure and I believe that has contributed favorably to the longevity of the motor.

Additionally, I pay close attention to the condition/state of my bike through my senses of touch and hearing. I notice the difference in sound/vibration when the bike is even slightly low on oil and rectify it ASAP. I am also able to tell when the tires are merely 2 lbs low. Is that unusual or do the rest of you experience this?


Devin: I changed to the Iridium plugs due to the fueling issues with the original map prematurely fouling plugs. They worked well to avoid that problem, but did very much change the sound/feel of the bike. It seemed to have a "bigger bang", more vibration, and there was a slight high-pitch tone from the motor with the plugs; probably from their higher electrical draw. No issues with the wiring melting or anything like that.

As you can see from the maintenance log, I switched back to the factory spec plugs while having the compression tested earlier this month. I was concerned about possible power loss, but it seems just as good as before.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Saturday, June 19, 2010 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chameleon - Nice report. This gives us all a great idea of the 1125 ownership experience.

When you said; -"I pay close attention to the condition/state of my bike through my senses of touch and hearing. I notice the difference in sound/vibration when the bike is even slightly low on oil and rectify it ASAP. I am also able to tell when the tires are merely 2 lbs low. ".

How many miles did it take you to reach this level of awareness with this bike?
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Twintalon
Posted on Saturday, June 19, 2010 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow, good to see that the 1125 motor is so stout. I wondered about the reliability of an all-new motor, but I spose if anyone's gonna do a 4-valve, water-cooled V-Twin right the first time out, it'd be Rotax. Just look at the Mille.
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Jelomadnes
Posted on Saturday, June 19, 2010 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WOOT! Way to go Paul!
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Chameleon
Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many miles did it take you to reach this level of awareness with this bike?

I'm really not sure as it has developed over time.

So, I take it this is not typical.
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