| Author | Message | ||
     Bott |
have done reset correctly several times, cant get 100% at wot. Cables NOT being stretched or binding, same reading no matter where the steering is. 09 r. Ideas? | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
When you go WOT, look at the spindles (on the throttle bodies) that the cables pull on, and see if they move all the way, you will see that there is a plate that the spindle will contact if open all the way. If the spindle is touching the plate, then it means your throttle is working properly, and it must be something in the ecm/ electrical system. If the plates are not touching, then your throttle is the culprit. | ||
| Bott |
also just noticed comm error u000001. Disconnected battery to see if things clear up. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Are you looking in diagnostic mode with the run switch in the on position? | ||
| Bott |
yes, and battery fully charged. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I only see less than 100% if the run/kill switch is in the off position. As soon as I flip it on, it goes back to 100%. | ||
| Stevek1125r |
Bott that comm error won't clear.. next time you got for a ride watch the cluster before you flip the key off. don't use the kill switch, just flip the power off... if for a breif second you see the comm error flash before the cluster powers off, then there is a possible issue with the cluster, or power to the cluster... my bike is going through this right now.. awaiting a cluster.. as for the tps, pull the intake plastics off and make sure the throttle bodies are opening fully.. ensure the Noid isn't causing an issue. also look at the forward intake clamp below the front throttle body. if that clamp is positioned incorrectly it will contact the linkage on the right side of the TB's and inhibit the blades from opening all the way.. | ||
| Bott |
sounds like a good day to remove the noid completely while I'm in there. It has been plugged and disabled for a year, but i never did the full 'noidectomy' Bike has seemed "off" for a few weeks---rough idle and stalling. I am wondering if this is all tied into some larger problem. Will report back on the linkage findings. Thanks, Pauly | ||
| Stevek1125r |
Bott also keep in mind that the way the linkage, for the TB's, is setup there is no DIRECT pull from the cables to open the TB's... it is still spring loaded (thus how the noid operates). search around about connecting the linkage together to ensure the TB's open when you command them... Also.. in regards to the stalling.. Go into DIAG mode and look up Fuel Pressure in KPA (or is it HPA).. anyways at idle you should have AROUND 400 KPA (i'm pretty sure its in KPA) and at initial start up you should have 520ISH kpa. to get the start KPA, just BUMP the starter and read the pressure reading... 2 things to check... 1) is that the value goes to the 500's. 2)is that this value does not drop rapidly..if it does (like loses pressure in a matter of seconds VS minutes) then you could have an issue with the fuel pump... my bike is also awaiting a fuel pump for this reason... | ||
| Bott |
Ok, pulled the intake. Tps is now normal (2-100) and showing NO CODES. Happy on one hand, concerned on the other. obviously something is or was bound pinched shorted or SOMETHING.... | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Sometimes the breather tube on the right side gets pushed down instead of slipping up into the bottom of the airbox. It runs between some moving parts of the throttle linkage and can impinge their action. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Did it show 93% every time? What was the closed %? It's odd that it is showing the exact % that mine shows if I check it with the run switch in the off position. Closed throttle shows 1.5 with the switch off and 2.0 with it on. Did you try checking it with the run switch off? Did the % change from 93? | ||
| Brumbear |
+10 on breather tube PITA that lil MOFO is simple enough to remedy but one of those things you notice when your done  | ||
| Bott |
It was actually starting at about 85 and then slowly climbing to the 93. I am thinking you guys are right about the breather hose being low and binding... And no, i never tried it with the switch off-but i am absolutely 100 % positive the switch was on the run position. Closed was at 2.0 every time. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Bloose just had a similar issue and sure enough some airbox parts where binding the linkage. Hope that's it. | ||
| Blackbear |
One more time. Instructions on getting into diag mode! Every time I try I end up only being able to adj time, theft pin, etc, etc. Am I missing something? | ||
| Bott |
Blackbear: Hold down both toggle and mode buttons. Turn key to 'on' you're in. | ||
| Keef |
That tube on the right side is the air inlet for your idle speed control motor inlet, do NOT pinch the hose closed or partially closed or pull it loose from the fitting it is on at the throttle bodies,if you do,you will feed the engine unfiltered hot air and dirt not good... | ||
| Blackbear |
Thanks Bott, I have been trying to diagnos a problem that has been haunting me ever since I got the bike and I thought I would clear it up by purchasing the EB Gas ECM, RT-5 exhaust and a K&N, Frame insulation for the boil, re-route the tank vent, de-noid and resistor plug in, TPS reset, etc etc. There has never been a code but this bike just runs like crap at low RPM up to 4500rpm. Pops, back fires, especially after it heats up after a 1/2 hr. I even had Harley put it on the dyno and try to diag with no success. Puts out a solid 125hp but even the tech says he thinks the low rpm crap may be related to the RT-5 exhaust, but I have a hard time believing that. Even idle (1700) searches around and is not right. Every one else raves about their bike running so great on the EB ECM, that I just have to keep looking at everything that I may have missed. Any ideas would be appreciated. | ||
| Bott |
In reading your post, a few questions. Are you saying that the bike ran this way BEFORE you bought the pipe,ecm and air filter? It sounds like you are saying you bought these parts to cure an existing problem,yes? That is really important to clear up, before we can offer suggestions. What came first,parts or problems? | ||
| Kozy |
I actually felt some power lose on my bike and checked the throttle sensor. It's only opening 85 WOT and 2 closed. It had never had any work done, that involved the airbox. So I guess I'll have to see what's binding up or causing it. | ||
| Blackbear |
Bott, this is correct, the problem always existed before I ordered all the aftermarket products. I kept reading posts about poor throttle response at or below 4k, so I just assumed an upgrade, starting with the EB gas ECM (purchased in March when the pump gas first appeared) would be a solution. After 1300 mi it is still like before, fart, backfire, and surge at constant throttle can best describe the experience below 4500rpm. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Blackbear, To get into diagnoses, hold the toggle and mode BEFORE turning the igy switch. | ||
| _gdkp_ |
@blackbear do your dealer check the spark plugs? maybe one of them is defect and sparks inconstant..? Also check the crank sensor - cause this is initiator for the ignition, theres the problem known that he is not tight fittenend (loose), maybe even more defect! (You can find the crank sensor under the pulley cover - black cable do connect him) |
