| Author | Message | ||
     Sinjhin |
So, I am just checking to make sure this is not the start of a more serious issue. When I start the bike in first gear with the clutch held down, the bike will jump forward a couple feet when it is cold... I am guessing this is because there is enough cold oil in there to actually transfer a little bit of force as the clutch gets to spinning. It only lasts a quarter of a seconds, but still, it worries me. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? for info: I am using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 (as per badweb suggestion). | ||
| Joshinga |
Even thou the clutch is disengaged there is still some friction in the basket you just don't feel it when the bike is at full idle but when you first start up and the motor starts spinning from 0 rpm to idle there is a point at which the plates grip just a hair. I wouldn't worry about it unless it doesn't stop. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I always start in neutral, so i wouldn't know. | ||
| Babboo |
Is'nt the clutch vacuum assisted? Maybe the motor needs to run for a second or so to create a vacuum to enable the clutch to operate?? | ||
| Gunut75 |
If the plates are sticking from the cold oil, roll it a foot or two in neutral, with the clutch out before you start the bike. | ||
| Babboo |
I noticed this when I first got my bike. It made no difference if the oil was hot or cold. I always start it in neutral now | ||
| Easyrider |
Use à 10w-40 oil, ask the ratax engine builders what they advise there customers for oil, it aint 20w-50 we experimented with different oil, and some Brands' have that behaivior, à good full synthetic 10w-40 not | ||
| Sinjhin |
I usually start in Neutral too(and this problem does not happen), but sometimes I need to make quick getaways after robbing banks... can't have my bike lurching on me in that high intensity situation. Joshinga, thanks. Easyrider, that was kinda what I was thinking. Thanks for the advice. Only reason I went with the 20w-50 is because many on here say it is good for our bikes. *shrug* | ||
| Blake |
I am guessing this is because there is enough cold oil in there to actually transfer a little bit of force as the clutch gets to spinning. You nailed it. Once the clutch plates get to spinning they fling off the excess oil and no more grabbing. Because of the issue you mention, it's good to always start a cold bike in neutral. Then before clicking her into 1st gear, give the throttle a quick blip and resolutely shift into first as the revs drop towards idle. If the effect is more pronounced than you think it should be, you might want to check the oil level. A bit of over-fill can exacerbate the effect. | ||
| Kicka666 |
As Easy said, I use Motul 10w-40 in mine & all the 1125's I work on. | ||
| Steeltech |
how many miles do you have on the bike? Are you doing a lot of tricks or hard take offs? Maybe burnouts? I ask because this could possibly be a sign of your clutch basket beggining to notch. Over time the fingers of the friction plates wear into the hub and clutch basket. If the wear is great the plates may stick in these grooves. Also for future reference, start your bike in neutral. I always do so I can have the bike sit there and warm up while i put on my helmet/gloves. Another reason might be so your bike doesn't 'lunge'. Steeltech | ||
| Xodot |
mine does that too so I start in Neutral. I don't think it's a problem. Enjoy the ride | ||
| Sinjhin |
Steeltech, I do clutch up wheelies on RARE occasions. I have maybe done 10 or so. No burnouts or really hard takeoffs. The bike has 4700 on it, but it was a demo bike... so I am guessing the clutch got used heavily during it's demo days. Thanks for the explanation. Thanks for the correction of terms as well, heh. |
