| Author | Message | ||
     Avc8130 |
I was thinking about the clutch weep as I was bleeding brakes the other day. I read that you should never fill the brake reservoir more than 1/2 to allow for expansion as the fluid heats. Would the same logic apply to the clutch? If the reservoir is full to the top, and the fluid heats (inevitable since it is in the engine) could the fluid be forced past the seal and weep? ac | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Doubtful. You'd have to be generating more pressure via expansion than the operating pressure when you use the clutch. KeS | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I've read that when the clutch wears fluid is pushed back into the reservoir. I believe the manual says to not fill it full for this very reason. It's probably filled to the top at the factory. | ||
| Avc8130 |
So, if the clutch wear pushes fluid back into the master...and it's full...where does it go next? ac | ||
| D_adams |
As the clutch plates wear, more fluid will be required in the slave unit, not less, which would drop the fluid level in the reservoir. Same thing with a cable actuated clutch. As the plates wear, you need to take the slack out of the cable to account for wear, so on the 1125, add fluid on the hydraulic type clutch to take out the "slack". (Message edited by d_adams on May 02, 2010) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Brakes: As the pad wears the pistons come out further. More fluid is supplied from the reservoir. Clutch: As the clutch wears the pack gets thinner. I haven't seen the slave cylinder setup. I guess the slave piston would have to come out further? ac | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Page 1-17 in the service manual states. Note Do not overfill the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Leave sufficient volume in the reservoir to accommodate the rise in fluid level as the clutch friction discs wear. I'm like a sponge when it comes to remembering notes, warnings, etc. | ||
| Avc8130 |
So that could be one of the culprits. ac | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Was just loading up some pics I took after a fresh coat of paint and re-doing my belly pan , and apparently I have another leaky hub .... Ugh   | ||
| Zac4mac |
Just spin your puck 180 degrees and put the weep hole up-top. That will stop the dribble, but you will have to drain it now and then. The kit to fix that is p/n X2086.1AM. Z | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
Thanks Z , that part# ....is that the current fix I take it ? is it a plunger rebuild ? Ken | ||
| Jpinkerton |
I have had nothing but nuisances with this bike since I bought it. I have had 2 left rear blinkers burn out (2009 LED versions) and now I have the clutch weep which is only getting worse. My brake lever is covered in fluid after a 15 minute ride and the drip marks are all down my casing. I need to take it in to the dealer. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Yes, that number is current and the fix works. This kit replaces an aluminum cylinder lining with SS. The piston is still lightweight Aluminum. Loretta dribbled for a year and a half until "The Fix" came out, not a drip since. Zack | ||
| 98s1lightning |
Well theres no way I can see any built up pressure causing the drip. It just doesn't work that way, if the pressure ever were to get that high it would disengage the clutch as it would be doing the same thing as pulling in the lever. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I'm guessing excess pressure is from pulling in the clutch with to much fluid in the system. It's in the manual. I doubt they would have mentioned it if it didn't cause some sort of failure. |
