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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through April 28, 2010 » CR highbar kit on R « Previous Next »

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Ratgin
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive read a ton of posts about changing CR bars but nothing that gives details on how big of a change or how complex it was to install the CR highbar kit onto the R.

Can anyone tell my how many inches up and back it will provide over the stock R?

How hard was it to install? My local dealer will be doing it and they really dont sell many 1125s. I know there is something about the ignition that needed to be modified.

Seems there would be a cost savings over convertabars.

Kit is about 300 and clamp and tree is another 200.

Lines and parts are about 250 and the convertabars are 350 plus shipping/duty ect to Canada.

Neck was damaged in a car wreck and in town it is complaining loudly about my R bars.
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Petereid
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your having things shipped up from the USA have them send it US Postal Service. It takes a little longer but but you won't get hit with UPS Brokerage charges. Most parts ship up from the USA duty free under NFTA (contrary to the line of BS some dealers will tell you to explain the price difference).

You can get the CR highbar kit for under $200 US and it comes with the lines and cables.
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Ratgin
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Price im not too worried about.

Being able to get one is another issue as seems they are sold out everywhere.

Fitment and how far up and back the bars are from the OE R's is what i really need to know.
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Mickeyq
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2010 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try the 1" bar kit from American Sportbike--new bars and clutch cable. No new clamp or other cables to change out. Gottem on my R and it's a huge difference--for me anyways. I like the position, wide enough, very natural and relaxed; but easy fast cornering. The neck straining was my pain too--I was rear-ended in my truck a few years back. Even though it's only @ 1", it is a huge difference when your riding. A+ to Al...
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Ratgin
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yea looked at those but 1 inch isnt enough for my gorilla frame
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Dosmie
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only problem with going too high is that you may hit the fairing supports when turning the wheel.
How about these?

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Ratgin
Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Teach has them on his R, They dont hit.

Just wondering how high and back it moves them vs the convertabars.
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Spondon440
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've made these for mine, it's using the cr high bar kit though.





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Jules
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you make them from scratch and do you want to make some more (Pretty please)!!
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Dosmie
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andrew,
Did you have to change out your cables and brake lines?
That is a sweet set up. Nice work.
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Peter_nikols
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Spondon440,

That looks great!
I'm surprised 98S1Lightning hasn't commented about this.

Peter
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Spondon440
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, nice to be appreciated.
I make lots of yokes and yes I made them from scratch, if you go through the pictures when you click the thumbnails, there are pictures of loads yokes I have made.

It is a quite difficult conversion, my yoke is a straight swap, I used the cr high bar kit from H/D including the hydraulic hoses and throttle cable.
It's difficult after that because you have to extend all the wiring by 2", thats all the switchgear and the loom to the clocks, that said, if you organise yourself it's not that bad, probably only took 4 hours complete but it's possible to make a balls of it.

I'd charge £200 plus carriage for the yoke and risers in the picture, I am the owner of an engineering machine shop near manchester UK with over £1m of machines and full public liability insurance.

I like them, the bike rides well with them on, hands touch the mirrors on full lock but it's not a problem.

I may make an alternative version with clip on bars and slightly lower, bit to busy to do it just yet.

Andy
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Jules
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 03:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andy

That's a good price..and the quality looks great

Can I ask why the wiring to the clocks needs extending? I can understand why the switchgear would but not the clocks.

Does the steering lock still work with your yoke? And are the risers the right size for fatbars (28.6mm)

Cheer
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Spondon440
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 04:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your right Jules, not the clocks, just the clump of wiring that comes out with the ignition switch, you have to understand wiring isn't my thing, I actually don't like doing it so if I did anyone can.

Yes, the steering lock works as usual and those risers fit fat bars but I can make them suit anything.

Andy
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Ratgin
Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2010 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm interested in buying one

sent you a PM
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Spondon440
Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Ratgin, email sent.

Andy
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