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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through April 17, 2010 » Tips for removing rear wheel « Previous Next »

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Kidder
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the service manual and will be removing the rear wheel soon.

For those that have done this, do you have any tips or lessons learned on removal/replacement?
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1_mike
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just follow the book...!

Some say you can do it without removing the caliper...don't bother. Spend the two minutes to remove the caliper as noted in the book.

Ain't that difficult.

Mike
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Drawkward
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agree with Mike. I haven't tried removing the rear without taking the caliper off, but I can see how it would be a pain in the A to do it with it on. Doesn't take but a few minutes to take the caliper off.

Followed the book as well...pretty easy deal. Longest part was welding up some adapters for the spools I bought from d_adams to use with my cheapo rear stand.
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Kidder
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys. I definitely planned on removing the caliper.

Luckily I have an 09 and a paddock stand. So, it should be relatively straightforward.
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 01:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remember, it's a lefty thread.
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Dirty_john
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

take the rear caliper off - it is quick to do and saves any messing around.
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Hildreth
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i just removed mine 2 weeks ago to change the tire... i didnt remove my caliper, but wish i did... Marred up the wheel putting it back on trying to sneak the wheel in and around the caliper.... not really enough room, but you can make it work...
But I agree, spend the 2 minutes and take it off... then post torque specs, lol... i have no books for mine, im wondering how far off i am!
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Duphuckincati
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rear wheel- caliper 20 ft lb-pinch bolt 42 ft lbs-axle 27 ft lbs then back off two turns (something about the bearings?) then 52 ft lbs.

Front wheel-caliper 36 - pinch 21 - axle 40
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Duggram
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some times you don't have much time. Like at the track where you have to keep your caliper bolts safety wired. Ronnie Saner (Latus crew chief) told me how to take the rear wheel off without removing the caliper (and it's safety wires). Just remove the little fender on the swingarm and lift the wheel straight up. Not really a problem.

I used to remove the caliper on my racer. I hated having to get out the 3/8 long extension, find the bolts from the other side of the bike and re-safety wire the thing when I was in a time crunch. But if you have the time pull the caliper. Don't forget to pump your brakes before you ride it.
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Mr_incognito
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you work on bikes any amount of time at all, everytime you pull the rear wheel off your Buell youll want to give Erik a big hug and buy him dinner. I have my 1125R and a 636, and I can take the rear wheel off and put it back on 4 times in the time it takes me to get the 636 rear off and back on....Kinda sucks, because the 636 is a stunt bike so the rear wheel is always coming off it lol. It has a dual caliper set up which makes it 10x more difficult.

But yea, take the caliper off the 1125, it makes things a ton easier.
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Dirty_john
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I lock wire most of my bikes bolts and to be honest with decent lock wire pliers it doesn't take that long to replace the wire.
Must admit I haven't done it to my 1125R yet but will do so over the next winter.
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Duggram
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 06:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Consider,

1 remove axle clamp bolt
2 remove 3 fender screws and fender
3 remove axle
4 slide belt off
5 lift wheel out

or,

1 remove axle clamp bolt
2 with extra long 3/8 extension line up caliper bolt head with hole in disk brake, fish the extension through hole in disk brake from other side of bike and remove caliper bolt
3 repeat for second caliper bolt
4 remove axle
5 slide belt off
6 remove wheel while supporting the caliper so that it won't pinch the disk

Obviously it doesn't take any common sense to see which method is easier. Now add safety wiring the caliper bolts to the second method.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do you guys put grease on the axle before reinstalling the axle, if so, what kind of grease do you use?
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Dirty_john
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

High Temp anti-sieze paste every time, took the axles out as soon as I received the bike from the dealers and coated them. Torque up as the workshop manual
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Ccryder
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep always never-seize on axles.

My last rear tire change I left the caliper mounted. You do have to lift the wheel pretty high to get the rim past the caliper. I made it easy on the instal by prying the pads back into the caliper. Just don't forget to pump the brakes before you ride!!
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how do you guys calibrate your torque wrenches, i have one that i thought was good, i set it to thrity ft-pounds, and it never clicked, i snapped the bolt(it wasn't used on the buell), so i'm thinking it was probably broken, i have a new torque wrench, but I want to make sure that the torque wrench is calibrated properly before it touches my buell.
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Dirty_john
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have my torque wrenches recalibrated at least every 18 months, luckily I know a tech in a certification lab.

A simple method is to put a nut in a vice, tighten a bolt/spacer to a given torque with a "known" torque wrench and then use your torque wrench to carefully torque the nut in discreet stages from a very low torque until your torque wrench stops "clicking" - only a rough test for mere mortals like us.
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Kidder
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always used white lithium grease on the axles on my Suzukis. I plan on doing the same for the Buell.

Thanks for the all of the inputs everyone.
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Kidder
Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2010 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it was as easy as you guys said. I did remove the caliper to get it out of the way.

Thanks again.
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Kidder
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One more question.

The service manual says to use Loctite Anti-Sieze.

Which one? The ones I see say they're not for high-speed applications. I don't care whether it's Loctite or not. I just want something that will work.
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Ccryder
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Judd:
What part that has anti-seize on it is turning at a high speed? Bearings are there for the highspeed loads.

Anti-seize is not meant to be coated on anything turning more than a few rpm's during instal/ removal.

It is meant to keep parts from "seizing" to each other due to some type of corrosion.

Later
Neil S.
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Kidder
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 05:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ccryder,

Sheesh I feel like an idiot. Of course, you're right. Thanks!
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can someone link me to somewhere online I can buy the anti seize? I know if it went to Autozone or something I will end up with the wrong crap.

(Message edited by froggy on April 24, 2010)
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Ccryder
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Frank....... be nice! I'll send you some of mine if you want ;+}
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