| Author | Message | ||
     Mavrick813 |
Bought an 08 1125R back in October, with the way the winter was I didn't get a lot of riding time. So far I put 480 miles on the bike. When I took delivery of the bike the rear right turn signal was bad. So they yanked a signal off of another bike and put it on. two days ago the rear right signal went bad again. Called the local place and they say they're back ordered until Late next month but they''ll see if they can find one somewhere and get it mailed to them. Any idea on how I can find one myself and have them mail it to my dealer without having to buy it, since it's warranty? Second thing is when I bought the bike it would initially start rolling from a stop in first at about 3-3.5K RPM, and two days ago it doesn't seem like it wants to start rolling until it's up about 5K RPM. Checked the clutch covers and nothing their, Checked the reservoir and it's full. SO I call and the dealer says to bring it in they'll take it for a spin and check it out. On the way their it starts engaging at 3K again... So if the dealer can't replicate it they can't fix it. Any ideas on this one? Mike | ||
| 1_mike |
On your first problem - had similar problems...went aftermarket, no more problems with indicator lights going out. On your second problem - What? Don't understand the problem/question the way you describe it. You make it sound like your bike has a centrifugal or go-cart type clutch.. Mike | ||
| Mavrick813 |
Ok, I'll try again, When I am releasing the clutch and rolling onto the gas to take off from a stopped position in first gear. Normally the bike would start too pull away at about 3500 RPM, but recently it's been doing this thing where the RPM goes all thhe way up to 5-5.5K RPM before the bike starts moving. Does that make any sense? Mike | ||
| Skntpig |
So when you fully let the clutch out your bike doesn't move until you get to 5K rpms? Need to bleed clutch or need new clutch plates. If you're saying it will stall if you don't keep the revs up it might respond to the latest fuel map update for better low rpm manners. | ||
| Banana_man |
Mine is the same always the rear right! why!! anyway thing of going the aftermarket way myself. 1 mike: - what indicators did you buy did they flash at the same rate? cheers kev | ||
| Mavrick813 |
No stall, It just doesn't start rolling until l about 5-5.5K RPM, and it's intermittent. It did it for about 45 minutes on my way to work. The bike sat in the lot for 8 hours, then on the way home it was doing it, Called the dealer at home and they said bring it over and when I left the house it was back to normal... Mike | ||
| Vtwinbuell |
My clutch will engage at idle, take it to the dealer. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
If you let the clutch all the way out it should either stall or move even at 1000 rpm. If not then something is wrong with your clutch. Now on the 1125's the engagement is toward the top make sure your letting the lever out all the way it could be real easy to hold the lever in a little and not realise your disengaging the clutch(I know and no insult intended, but this machine is really late in the lever, while most others engage towards the bottom/middle) | ||
| Jules |
I would expect the bike to start moving forward as soon as the clutch bites at any revs.. Mine pulls away cleanly from idle (as it should).. Aftermarket indicators would seem the best bet for a long term fix.. | ||
| Drawkward |
I agree with everyone else. The bike WILL move if you let the clutch all the way out. Even if it's to lurch forward and stall. If it's not, like everyone else said there is something wrong with your clutch. Just curious. How long have you been riding motorcycles? | ||
| Sportster_mann |
I got so fed up with failing rear led indicators that I ended up fitting ones from 2010 models - these have bulbs and are a straight swap. It may be worth asking your dealer if they would consider changing the led ones out for the bulb ones. | ||
| Mavrick813 |
I'm novice at best. Guess it shows. Started on a Rebel 250 about a year and a half ago. Jumped up to a 2006 VRSCR,8 months after I started riding. Then couldn't pass up the deal they threw my way back in October for the 1125R. I'm going to go and get it checked out and see what they say. But if I get you right your saying that if I release that clutch totally the bike should start moving forward whether i'm on the gas or not... If I release the clutch on this bike without being on the gas it stalls. So if I release the clutch while i'm on the gas as the revs get up to about 3-3.5K RPM it starts moving. It' been doing that since I bought it (Brand New) and I figured it was normal for this bike. The change is that now the revs have to get up to about 5K RPM before we see any real movement. But what was confusing me the most is that it doesn't do it every time. Mike | ||
| Jules |
But if I get you right your saying that if I release that clutch totally the bike should start moving forward whether i'm on the gas or not... If I release the clutch on this bike without being on the gas it stalls. Yes, there's a feature on these bikes that the revs pick up a little as the clutch lever is released (to aid pulling away) and so if you're sat on flat ground and just let the clutch out slowly as the lever moves towards the end of its travel the bike will start to creep forward, you only need revs just above idle for the bike to start moving.. In theory (and I don't suggest you try this) but what you are saying is that if you engage first and slowly let the clutch out whilst holding the front brake firmly on you'd be able to take your hand off the left bar without the bike stalling or even trying to move UNLESS you then rev it to over 3k... Like I said - Don't try that, but if that's accurate then you do have an issue... Mine will stall if I try that (as will all manual gearbox vehicles) | ||
| Drawkward |
Mav, I only asked how long you had been riding because the clutch and the bike liking high revs is definitely different than a lot of other bikes out there. I don't look at where my revs are when I start off but once I get my new rear on I'll check it out and let you know. I'm fairly sure your clutch isn't bad and this may be a little bit of user "error"...but I could be totally wrong. Jules: I read that entirely different than you did I think.
If Mav does what you said his bike would stall...just like it should. | ||
| Jules |
Jules: I read that entirely different than you did I think. Yeah - I think you're right... and I think your interpretation was the correct one - my bad | ||
| Mavrick813 |
In theory (and I don't suggest you try this) but what you are saying is that if you engage first and slowly let the clutch out whilst holding the front brake firmly on you'd be able to take your hand off the left bar without the bike stalling or even trying to move UNLESS you then rev it to over 3k... Exactly what I'm saying. If I'm not on the gas it will stall, But if I do it and get right on the gas to do a burn out the tire won't even try to chirp till I have it at 3000+ RPM. (Message edited by Mavrick813 on April 08, 2010) | ||
| Vinb |
Sounds like you were riding the clutch from day one and now its about burnt out. Will it do what you saying in 2nd also | ||
| Firebolt32 |
The clutch on a bike is like a clutch in a truck. You can find that sweet spot. If it is screwed up this won't work but take it out and just let off the clutch until it rolls forward. Squeeze it back in. Keep doing it until you find the sweet spot. This will actually be good practice anyways. You want to know where that is for encounters with being stopped on hills. |
