| Author | Message | ||
     Rex |
Just curious where everyone uses their tie down straps on the CR? I have the taller bars. I tried putting on my canyon dancer, but this would destroy the switches. I tried other spots on the bars, but they all rest on the pods, which would scratch the whey out of them? Just wondering? I haven't really found a good spot that doesn't hit the pods? I put the bike in to the locking wheel stand holder and loosly put the straps on the end of the bars, but not too secure. Just wondering? REX | ||
| Nillaice |
on my 1125R, i come up next to the wheel/fender and along the forks, inside the pods, and up over the frame inbetween the top triple and the gas cap. cinch it down till i see a couple of inches of compression on the forks. the passenger peg brackets work for the rear. until the straps can be plucked and resonate (make a tone) -easy check at a gas-up is to pluck the straps, cuz the tone changes if they loose tension- this works well for me with the wheel wedged in the corner of the truck bed. a wheel-chock would work even better. | ||
| Greenflash |
I trailered my 1125CR from north to South Florida, and the canyon dancer was at first threatening the horn and start switches. I was able to twist it around so that it cleared those switches (I had the stock clubman bars) YMMV! | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Canyon Dancer has come out with a second version design to expressly address these issues; it works fine. Or if you don't feel like paying them twice for a product that works, you can try Cycle Cinch, which came out after the original CD and doesn't ride up on the switchgear either. I have a Cycle Cinch and can vouch for it, I haven't used the CD2, but have heard people who had problems with the original say it's fixed them. I tie down my CR the same way I tie down any other bike: throw it in the Baxley Sport Chock, Cycle Cinch across the bars, tie down through the rear wheel to keep the whole mess from flipping forward in a crash. KeS | ||
| Rooster_1 |
Original Canyon Dancer on clubman bars. Works well. No problems at all. I route the tiedowns under the bars. | ||
| Jdugger |
I'm not a fan of the canyon dancer because it stretches out your grips -- pulling the outward. Not an issue with the oem bar ends, but if you have custom ones it can cause throttle binding. With the 1125, you have easy access up through the lower triple. I have my track bike in the back of a truck as much as anyone, and I find it best just to thread a regular strap up through there and tie the bike forward to the truck bed. A bit of fork compression -- maybe an inch or so -- is all you need to keep 'er steady for the ride. Works great, and only requires $10 worth of straps from your local hardware store. | ||
| Ratsmc |
I just wrap a rope around the front wheel and tie it to my tow hitch. I use a double knot so that it doesn't come loose. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Sounds sparkly! KeS | ||
| Rex |
thanks for the notes. I will go out and look at the areas you are suggesting. I have noticed that the canyon dancers on my other buells, usually mess up the grips, either ripping them, or affecting the throttle like you said. REX | ||
| Keef |
Ratsmc, I find that you should wrap the rope (use nylon not as abrassive as a hemp rope)around the back tire as when you pull it along the transmission doesn't get any lube as the motor needs to be running for the trany to get any lube,was the same way for the XB's,the old tubers were ok to tow rear wheel down,not real sure what all is different on the XB's,I guess back when H-D developed the ole' sporty the expected it to get towed alot so they allowed splash lubing in the trany... | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1 on just looping a strap over the lower triple tree, hooking it to itself (I have straps that have loops sewn in about 4" from the hook), and cinching them down. | ||
| Avc8130 |
I used to use Canyon Dancers, and we would mess up grips and break switch housings constantly. Garbage. Good concept, poor execution. Canyon Dancer 2 is SLIGHTLY better, but I have heard about the cups failing. Never used a Cycle Cinch, but reviews are good. I threw the tie downs out. I use Pit Bull trailer restraints. I regularly haul 4+ bikes around and these are the best. Load/unload in under 3 mins/bike. NO worries about straps failing (which has ALWAYS happened to me). ac | ||
| Slaughter |
Tie around the fork above the lower triples. NO Canyon Dancers. Simple stuff. Works on any bike unless the straps hit the fairings (not an issue on the CR) | ||
| Mr_incognito |
Yep, what Slaughter said. I have a stunt bike that I take out almost daily (636) and its naked. I got the straps that loop around and hook back into themselves by the "buckle". Loop it through the forks right above the bottom triple (go around wires, so you dont pinch them) and loop it back into itself. Ive got mine down to a science lol. Keep the bike on its kickstand, tighten the left side hand tight, then pull down on the right side bar and tighten the strap. Then you dont even have to touch the other side again. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Do this: use 4 soft ties, 2 per side take the first one,put it around the fork just above the lower triple tree, with the two loops hanging down BEHIND the fork. Take a second one, loop it through BOTH of the back hanging loops above, and pull them forward around the fork. Hook your tie down into those two forward loops. This pulls down by the lower triple tree, but puts the angle low enough that it doesn't pull against the pods. This works well on a lot of full fairing bikes as well. Al |
