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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through April 02, 2010 » DDM HID Install Question » Archive through March 30, 2010 « Previous Next »

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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am trying to have a tech discussion with DDM and I can't seem to get on the same page as them. Maybe someone here can answer my question.

I ordered H8 bulbs for the 1125R. The ones DDM supplied were straight and not 90 degree so I sent them an email. Apparently they have both straight and 90 degree H8s. These fit fine so no issue with the orientation.

My issue comes in the wiring. The DDM Bulbs have a grommet. Through this grommet pass 4 wires:
2 go to the bulb
2 plug into the stock bulb harness
My issue is that in order to get the stock bulb harness in I have to shove it along side the grommet.

Is this normal? I would have though the HID grommet would have just had the bulb wires passed through and the plug would remain external.
ac
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Torquaholic
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1,https://www.ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=d ownloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=14&nav=0,1

that should be the link to their instruction manual. see if that helps clear things up. i stuffed the wire connection right next to the bulb, all tucked in behind the factory rubber boot that covers the backside of the bulb/housing. Cut a slit in the rubber housing to run the other wires through, attached them to the striker and ballast.

I've got to head out. Will check back later, post up another question if you need more help. i just wrapped up the DDM install this weekend on my '08R.

--Kevin
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kevin,
Thanks for the reply. My install is complete, I am just 2nd-guessing.

Since you mention cutting a slit to pass the stock wires in I think I am ok.
ac
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually the rear cup can be stretched enough so you can get the plug through the hole. A little Armorall also helps.
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Neil,
Not sure what you mean...the DDM kit has a grommet designed for a 1" hole and all of their wiring is pre-molded into it. My concern is how to pass the factory plug in. Sounds like a slit is the way to go. Currently I just have it slid through the along side the grommet.
ac
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Xb12s_streetdemon
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes, cut a hole in the factory boot.all the stuff on the bulb side stays inside the boot. leave the factory wiring routed the factory way. this is the way it is designed.
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Xb12s_streetdemon
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

avc8130, i don't mean to beat up on you. but this seams like a pretty silly question for an engineer.
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What kind of a comment is that? If it isn't meant to "beat me up"...what the heck is the point of it?

As an engineer, I would have designed the bulb differently. I would have used a REAL connector instead of the 2 tangs. I would have also made it so either that connection could be OUTSIDE or INSIDE the rubber boot. No half-assing around. They were so close to getting it 100%.

I was merely hoping to confirm that the DDM setup I received is proper. The DDM bulb has 4 wires (2 sets) permanently molded into a grommet. 2 go from the bulb to the ignitor and 2 go from the ballast to the stock light connector. Cut a 1" hole in the stock rubber boot and install. Beautiful, sealed, nice. Problem: stock connector is outside rubber boot, DDM tang connectors are inside rubber boot. Right now I just tucked the stock connector in along side the grommet through the 1" hole and wired it all up. This WORKS, but it isn't sealed and doesn't seem as nice as DDM and Buell both tried to be.

Sorry if my occupation dictates that I should know exactly how to implement an after market component designed to some spec into a factory system designed to a similar spec, where both parties chose slightly different methods and they aren't exactly 100% perfectly compatible.
ac

(Message edited by avc8130 on March 29, 2010)

(Message edited by avc8130 on March 29, 2010)
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Stevek1125r
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i cut the DDM's grommet off, then made the hole in the factory headlamp boot a bit larger.. shoved the connectors through and wired it up..

I didn't worry DDM's 1" grommet..
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, so it sounds like I have the same setup as everyone else. I just got thrown off when they told me they had 2 versions.

Ok, I am officially happy with how I installed.

BTW: they work great.
ac
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Reducati
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hi, im thinking of putting an hid light in the low beam only on my 09cr. Are the DDM kits plug in play? Do i have to splice any wires? or simply plug this in to the oem light socket and harness? thanks in advance. dan
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan,
The wiring is plug and play. I believe the factory bulb holder needs to be modified on the CR high beam. On my CR low beam it went together very easily.
ac
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, the low beam is easy on the CR. It's the high beam bulb holder that needs modding (and it's not even that hard). You just have to remove the quite large female connector for the bulb ... either reuse it and use a lot of electrical tape to secure DDM's male spade connector or cut it off and add another connector (normal female spade). You'll see what I'm talking about when you get in there.
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was going to do the high beam on my CR, but I was concerned about losing the instant-on functionality of the high beam.
ac
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's the only drawback. Flashing is still available b/c the startup spark is bright enough to see. Honestly though, at night, as long as the high beam isn't kept off for more than 5 mins or so, mine comes right back on (hot restart).

Warming up from cold only takes 10 seconds. But it would be a drawback, definitely, if you needed it right away and had to wait for it to light up. You'd outrun your light easily.
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So what you are saying is that riding around with high beam on at night, and then dropping it off and back on for a passing motorist is no issue?

My other concern is I live in NJ. If I have my high beam on at night, I must turn it off and on every 30 seconds for passing motorists.
ac
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

So what you are saying is that riding around with high beam on at night, and then dropping it off and back on for a passing motorist is no issue?




Correct. Todays units warm up faster than old units, plus they can take the abuse better. Also, at $35 for an entire kit, they are cheaper than normal bulbs now should one blow. Knock yourself out, I've been doing it for years : )
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$35?!?! How about $17.50! LOL

I guess I will order one up for the high beam too. I LOVE the low beam, so adding the high beam should be amazing.
ac
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Reducati
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

going to try it..i have the cr and just looking for the low bulb, so i order the h7 bulb,35w ,6000k , single m/c hid kit? correct? i mean for 17 bucks hard to go wrong. Thanks for the previous info, and let me know if the above is what is should be ordering. thanks again. dan
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went 55W in my CR because that is what wattage the factory bulb is. I also went 4500k, because I wanted WHITE light with no blue.
ac
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Myotherbike
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is the consensus on wattage? Are you guys going with the 35 or 55 watt kits?
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Along the same logic...I put 35W in my R. Stock bulbs are 35W in the R.
ac
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Stevek1125r
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A 35Watt HID is twice as bright as a 55watt halogen...

I went with 35's for my R and its perfectly fine... I just adjusted the beam down a bit on the left side to keep oncoming drivers happy... I have never been flashed and can even wear my dark visor screen for my helmet and still see at night.

55watt setups run signifigantly hotter and could cause issues with plastic housings if the bulb is close enough... Plus from what i seen 55 watt bulbs seem to wash out the beam more.. (scatter everywhere)..


At the end of the day its personal preferance thing..... i have 35 watters in my low beams on the R and i'm more than happy
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have 55W in mine (6000K, both high and low) and have no issues with heat. Volume-wise, the CR headlamps are pretty big and get plenty of air flow. I've left my key on before for over an hour with the bike just sitting there with the low and high beams on and the headlamp barely gets hot to the touch. Scatter is minimal whether you go 35/55W ... they use the same reflector and the same bulb construction.





(Message edited by jeepinbueller on March 30, 2010)
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

50w HID (I got an older DDM kit) runs about 8°F hotter than a 55w halogen. I forgot to check what my 35w halogens do for comparison.
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Stevek1125r
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess i should have mentioned that IMO 55 watt bulbs in a R headlamp might be too hot.. the bulbs are much closer to the clear lense...

Also scatter has alot to do with the reflector, but a brighter bulb will make what little scatter you have much worse..

You probably can't tell much difference, but oncoming drivers can ; )


Cheers : D
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would stick with the same wattage as the factory bulb you are trying to replace:

R = 35w
CR = 55w

ac
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Cataract2
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Only problem with the HIDs is they are illegal if installed aftermarket here in CO. Though, I don't know how much that is enforced.
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty sure that is the case everywhere. Don't order any more colorful than 6k and I doubt you will have an issue.
ac
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Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Technically the GM installs are also illegal. Read the fine print.
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