| Author |
Message |
    
Avc8130
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 12:54 pm: | 
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GM? |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 01:01 pm: |
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When GM first went to Hid as an option they took after market HID kits an plugged them into conventional headlight. Just like we do! |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 01:07 pm: |
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Eh, good enough for GM...good enough for me!
ac |
A_s_r
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:19 pm: |
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Is anyone using, or feel it's necessary to use, the HID Wiring Harness that runs directly to the battery? |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:28 pm: |
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I am running off the stock wire...no fires yet...*knocks on wood*
ac |
Froggy
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:29 pm: |
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That harness is intended for cars, so don't bother with it unless you don't mind hacking it up as the wires are way too long. Also, on the CR with two single bulbs you will have extra connectors.
When I put it on my XB, I had to cut it up quite a bit as the fuse would of been next to the engine block, it had several feet of extra wire I couldn't tuck away, and then I had to totally cut off the wiring for the second bulb. Eventually due to the several half assed modifications I made, the wire broke, so I ended up removing the harness and going right off the factory wiring. |
Torquaholic
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 06:41 pm: |
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i ran a 15amp-fused 12 gauge wire direct from the battery up to a 12V switch I mounted to the fairing stay, then out of that switch and into a Wolstentech TDR-P time delay relay. A 14 gauge wire now runs from the relay directly to the point in the front headlight wiring harness where the factory Blue #3 wire splits off to feed each side's headlight. I removed the bit of blue wire that leads up to the split and instead tied my 14 gauge wire into the blue wires running to each headlight. (FYI: from the factory, where the blue wire splits to feed each headlight low beam, those three wires were just twisted together and secured with heat shrink. It looks like no solder or crimping was done by the factory on my bike.)
... used the feed side of the blue #3 wire coming out of the headlight harness connector to trigger the relay. The relay is digital, and it draws 5milliamps, hence the reason for the 12V switch i installed.
End result for my bike;
1) i can manually switch on/off the headlights for track days using the 12V switch
2) when the bike is parked an extended period of time, i can keep it switched off to keep the relay from drawing any power and draining the battery faster than it does already
3) When starting the bike, I flick the 12V switch to power the relay, then turn the key and start the bike. I've set the relay to delay the headlights from turning on for 10 seconds after the key is turned to the on position. This keeps my battery amps available for starting, and should help extend the life of the HID ballasts by reducing hot re-strike associated with starting the bike up, if there is any.
i know it is overkill, and a bit redundant, but i'm happy with the results. |
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