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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through April 02, 2010 » High bar cable binding « Previous Next »

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Swamp2
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, I've been taking my time putting my high bars on. Still had sticking at left full lock, but not so worried about that. But when I tried to button it all back up, I get serious binding in all positions as soon as I tighten down the air cleaner baseplate. Can't figure out where it's hitting, I know there aren't too many possibilities but I'm a touch stumped. I'm sure I routed the cables just like original. Anybody run into this one?
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Kirb
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

check the rubber vent tube on the right side. It goes between the linkage and bodies and often will bind on the linkage if you didn't adjust the tube properly
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Brumbear
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

search it there are a million things on it. They will go but they are a pain in the watsus. They have to go back almost the exact same way they came out. and I hope you did the denoid while in there. its is all in the adjusters at the throttle body in the end.

where you see the red circle the cable underneath put both adjuster nuts on the right side if the bracket it will give you just eneough so they don't hang. The cables must be in correctly though.
Hope this helps a little
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Usanigel
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2010 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same problem. Make sure you have a straight shot from under the frame up to the t. body's. Next test pull on the cables to make sure they work really easy. Install just the handle bars, forget all the mirrors and other stuff for now.
Thread the cables in a wide arch through the headlight fairing and up to the hand grip. Hookup to the hand grip and test full lock both sides. I had to mess with the cables a few times but I found staying close to the left frame worked best. throttle should snap shut when you let go. The other stuff fits easy after you have the cables installed.
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Swamp2
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Should the cables go in front of the main harness up in the headlight fairing, or behind it?
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Usanigel
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think mine ended up in front, the electrics can be moved/pushed to the back as they have no moving parts. You need a smooth run for the cables to work correctly.
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Nickg
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

search for my post on it...ther are pictures, the cables must run ABOVE the original route....see the pictures
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Swamp2
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Giving the cable mounting bracket a little bend as suggested in the archives made all the difference, surprisingly. They now snap closed cleanly lock-to-lock. Yippee!

I think I currently have both cable adjusters as backed off (loose) as they can be.

This job did turn out to be a bit of a PITA. I can see why it would cost some serious $ at a dealer.
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Avc8130
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been having some binding issues at full left. I did some exploring tonight and I learned a few things:

1. Make sure you pull that breather tube all the way up into the airbox after install. Otherwise it rubs on the linkage.

2. I have the TOP cable with BOTH adjuster nuts on the REAR side of the bracket at the TB.

3. My cables are behind the wires.

4. I tried tweaking the bracket. Initially I though SUCCESS! After playing a bit I noticed a ton of slop in the throttle tube. Once I adjusted this out I had my binding issue back.

5. For some reason my cables "move" as the bars turn left. With the bars straight or turned right the cables lie on top of each other through the frame and the throttle snaps closed HARD. When the bars go left one cable actually moves towards the center of the bike and the throttle binds.

6. I lubed the heck out of the cables with PJ1 cable lube.

Brumbear is coming over tomorrow and we are going to tackle this together. I will make sure I document EXACTLY what we find.
ac
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Swamp2
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup. Point 1 was why I initially posted - about the binding when the baseplate was screwed down. I hadn't pulled the hose up far enough.

My cables are running in front of the harness in the headlight fairing. Seems to me that the bigger of a radius you can run up there, the better. But, before making the TB bracket bend, it was still sticking at left lock.

I didn't do anything weird with the position of the TB cable adjuster nuts, they're in stock position.

My noid is still in there but I removed the cable so it's not in the equation.

I lubed the cables liberally with a silicone spray lube.

We'll see. I haven't actually ridden it yet since I just did this and now see I need to extend the brake switch wires; they pull off at right lock.
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Ohsoslow
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 02:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I installed mine my throttle wouldn't even move when it was anywhere to the left, after a dozen time adjusting and changing the routing I "adjusted" the bracket at the throttle bodies and everything freed right up, I have about an 1/8th of an inch of play in the throttle and it is easy and smooth all the way to wide open no matter the steering position.
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Kicka666
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 04:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need a bit of freeplay on the throttle or it will bind at full lock left, back off the adjuster at the throttle bodies.
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Kirb
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I must be lucky..I took my time finding the best route for the cables with a nice smooth loop back. No problems. No bending. No tweaking.

It takes some time, but not all that difficult.
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kirb,
What is that route?
ac
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Kirb
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd have to take pics, but it was kind of a no-brainer once I cut a ty-rap or two and got some of the cables out of the way.

The cables come straight off the brackets, go under the frame (next to the wire harness), loop up behind the flyscreen, and end up at the grip. The process makes no sharp bends and allows movement during lock to lock turns without binding.
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Haha, that's funny. My cables do the exact same thing...except for that whole "allows movement during lock to lock turns without binding" portion.

I think this comes down to a throttle slack adjustment. I think those that don't have the throttle locking on left turns just happen to live with a little extra slack in the cable.
ac
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I found a possible spot for discrepancy:

Do the cables pass through the frame to the left or right of the wiring harness?
ac
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So Brumbear swung by today, mostly to BS, but we did play with the cables a bit. I also went digging in the manual a tad.

Findings:
1. I had forgotten to re zip tie the cables right where they pass by the wire harness/intake air temp sensor/radiator.

2. Dave did SOMETHING and suddenly everything was happy.

ac
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