| Author | Message | ||
     Tbenson |
Is there any word on these yet, price, availability ETC.? | ||
| Al_lighton |
I picked up the first production bars yesterday, am fitting them this weekend, and with any luck at all, will have them up on the website next week. I have a couple longer Buell 1125CR high bar clutch cables in stock, as I KNOW that a longer clutch line is required. My plan is to get them from a different source than Buell, but until I get this one mounted and tested, I haven't started sourcing those lines. They only take a week to get once I have the specification nailed. Brake line and throttle cables are TBD. From what I've seen, I THINK the stock ones will be able to be retained, but could be optimized with different ones. I'll know this weekend. Price of the 2 bars will be $225. Part number will be A16502. Links to the other parts needed (i.e., clutch line) will be linked on the website when I get it up there. Al | ||
| Junkyrddog780 |
Are these going to be higher than stock? If so how much? | ||
| Justa4banger |
REALLY??? this sounds promising.... ANY PICS???????????????????????? | ||
| Aeholton |
I picked up the first production bars yesterday, am fitting them this weekend, and with any luck at all, will have them up on the website next week. Awesome! Pictures please? | ||
| Tbenson |
Thanks for the update Al! Troy | ||
| Dms |
Outstanding! I'll definitely be putting in an order before springtime. | ||
| Plumpton |
Im interested in these too. May stop me converting my R to a CR...... | ||
| Scarab_run |
im ready al i love you | ||
| Al_lighton |
I fitted them this weekend, and they work well. Rise perpendicular to the top surface of the triple tree is approximately 1.2". This is the max that they can go without causing interference with the fairing stay. Fitment requires a new clutch line for sure, I'll be ordering those today. Stock throttle cables work, but they need to be routed under the fairing stay mount instead of above. The stock brake line works but is marginal, an extra 1/2" would have been optimal. I didn't need to break seal on the brake line, so no front brake bleed is required. Electrical cables all reach. The biggest issue is lever rotation. I'm satisfied with the lever angle that I can achieve, but riders that like an extreme amount of front lever dip may feel limited. It's a bit of a compromise on lever position. Move the levers too far out, where you can get more lever dip as the brake MC clears the triple tree as you dip the MC lever angle forward, and then the brake master cylinder will clip the fairing stay before full left lock. Move it in to clear the fairing stay, and you lose some lever dip as the master cylinder will hit the triple tree as you try to dip the levers further forward, and the MC switches start to get some interference with the bar jog. But overall, I'm quite pleased. All of the above really doesn't hurt me at all, in that I can set the lever dip where I would want it anyway, with no MC cap strike on the fairing stay. It's only if you try to go to more extreme positions that these interferences exist. Folks that like a more horizontal lever will have no issues at all. I'm wrapping up the installation today, taking the necessary photos for the installation instructions. I've written about half of the instructions, should finish those today. I think I have three sets of clutch lines in stock, and will pick up 24 sets of bars from the shop later today. Will try to get it up on the web site today. Folks installing these would be wise to get the heated grip switch pod and heater elements at the same time (http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17301.html and http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5669.html ), and a new set of grips. You likely won't get the stock grips off intact, they're glued on well. You'll have the fairing off and the tie wraps cut and clean bars, so you're pretty much right where you'd need to be to start a heated grip installation anyway. The bike harness is already wired for the power input for the heated grip switch pod, so adding them at this time from a labor viewpoint is virtually free. I need to find a firebolt owner to check fit on that bike, I don't have one. I think it'll be even easier on a firebolt, as I think the stock clutch cable will work. Not sure about fairing stay strike on an XB2R yet, though. Al | ||
| Justa4banger |
SOunds great......... Next question.... WHERES THE PICS?????  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Here's some:       | ||
| Junkyrddog780 |
Do they make you feel more comfortable than stock ones? These are the ticket for the ride to Homecoming. | ||
| Rageonthedl |
hhmmm these are cool, can they be mounted up side down? so they are even lower than stock? | ||
| Al_lighton |
I'm sure they CAN NOT be mounted upside down, unless you want to hang your master cylinders upside down too  Look at the pictures for a moment and think about what they'd hit and it'll be obvious why. 1.2" doesn't sound like a lot, but it's a pretty noticeable ergonomic change. They're over an inch wider per side, but don't feel excessively wide when standing still. I haven't ridden it yet with these on, it's been raining cats and dogs here in SoCal the past few days. I'm sure the added leverage will be welcome at around town speeds, but it remains to be seen how they'll feel at higher speeds. Strength-wise, I think you'd break the triple tree before you'd break these. | ||
| Cobradave93 |
Did they need to be wider or can you get them the standard width? | ||
| Jules |
They look pretty good... It'll be interesting to see how much difference that small a rise makes, the price is pretty good too.. (Message edited by Jules on January 20, 2010) | ||
| Justa4banger |
THANK YOU!!!! They look good and now with the picture i understand your previous posting on these...Looks like these will be on my wish list.. | ||
| Skratch |
Interesting....veeerrrry interesting. I didn't think I'd like my low bars that much. But after riding for a while, they grew on me. Weren't nearly as uncomfortable as I thought they'd be. But these still look like a viable option! | ||
| Mickeyq |
Yep, I like'em! | ||
| Rageonthedl |
well crap | ||
| Olddog |
When will they be up on your website. Like to get some installed before the weather turns nice. | ||
| Peter_nikols |
I definitely want those! Plus whatever cables I would need to make it all work. When will these be available? I've got a wish list going on the American Sport Bike website. Thanks Peter | ||
| Peter_nikols |
Hey Al, Will those bars fit the part# 5376 - Stainless Steel Cruise Control w/Adapter and part# 5662 - Gel Thick Handlebar Grips from the American Sport Bike site? Thanks Peter | ||
| Olddog |
Would have been nice it the Pics had the fairing installed and show the clearance. | ||
| Ron_luning |
I happen to live down the road from Al's shop in California, so I stopped by to pick up a set of these yesterday. I don't think he's finished writing the instructions yet. If you are mechanically inclined and have a service manual you can do the installation without instructions. My natural inclination when replacing the clutch line was to remove it by pulling it up towards the handlebars and out. However, there is very little clearance between the cylinder head and the cross connect pipe between the radiators. I ended up pulling the line down to remove it because the upper fitting is easier to snake through the narrow opening than the lower fitting (lower is bent at 90 degrees). The control positions in Al's photos above are as wide as you can go with the brake master cylinder. With the handlebars pushed towards the left, the outside/front/top corner of the brake master cylinder has just a tiny amount of clearance with the fairing bracket. Also, the downward rotation of the master cylinder is limited by interference against the top triple clamp where the handlebar mounts. I had levers mounted at a pretty low angle before, but the need to do so may be lessened by the decrease in forward lean of the rider's body with the higher bars. It looks like it'll be fine, but I can't say for certain until I get a chance to ride it for a while. The clutch master cylinder mounting position is limited in a side-to-side direction by the electrical switch connected on the bottom. Not that it's a problem, but if you wanted to put it wider than in the photos you'd have to elongate the wire to prevent pulling at full left lock. The only requirement to be able to install the bars is a longer clutch line. I already had the longer brake line and throttle cables, so I used those too. Al showed me on his bike with the normal throttle cables that the throttle would not return closed on its own at full left lock. My bike with the longer cables does that too. I didn't try before installing the higher bars, so maybe it did it before too. In any event, by rotating the throttle forward at full left lock, the throttles do close and you really wouldn't normally open the throttle more than a crack with the bars all the way to either side anyway. The longer brake line is not needed, but doesn't hurt either. I'll put up some photos when I have them. I've discovered what appears to be another SAE fastener. The bolts that hold the clip ons into the top triple clamp are between 6 and 7mm. One general comment about the fitment issues: this bike was clearly well designed and manufactured. The engineers were obviously able to plan on all the parts being made to exact specifications, because there is virtually no allowance for extra clearance anywhere. The good thing is that the bike feels like one solid piece while riding. The bad thing is evident in the issues stated above when trying to make even a slight modification, and from my own experience with low siding twice that even a slight tweak to a bracket can lead to parts contacting each other. I haven't rotated the engine yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if a little more wiggle room would be appreciated then too. Just an observation. | ||
| Al_lighton |
OK, they're up on the website: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/A16502.html I have in stock only 2 of the CR clutch lines needed for install. I have a bunch more on order, but it's going to be a couple weeks minimum. I could get Spiegler lines faster, but they're more expensive than the CR high bar Buell lines, and the Spiegler lines come with aluminum banjo bolts instead of steel ones. I suppose one could just re-use the banjo bolts that are already on with new crush washers, and if sourcing the Buell lines proves problematic, that's the route I'll take. They DEFINITELY need a new clutch line to work. HIGHLY recommend installing the #17301 heated grip switch pod and #5669 heater elements at the same time as the install, as the labor is essentially free. The actual bars have the same specs as the stock bars, so all grips, bar ends, cruise controls, etc. that fit the stock bars will fit these. There is ZERO impact with the fairing itself. The fairing stay is the more fit critical part of fitting these, not the actual fairing. A few pics below, straight and at full lock.     The rise perpendicular to the top surface of the triple tree is 1.2". With a rake angle of 23 degrees, that equates to 1.1" vertical, .43 horizontal movement of the bars. The angles, back or down, don't change. Al (Message edited by al_lighton on January 22, 2010) | ||
| Al_lighton |
This is a comparison shot of the same bike with a different ZeroG screen, at a slightly different angle, but still helps with the visuals on these:  Al | ||
| Bettybuell |
I put these on. Not as pretty but more versatile. I love that the fairing allows this. http://www.convertibars.com/index.cfm     | ||
| Al_lighton |
On that note, I've had a few sets of Convertibars here for a while, I just hadn't had a chance to get them up on the website. They're there now as well. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16244.html Al |
