| Author | Message | ||
     Hildstrom |
Has anyone thought about using the solenoid (noid) for a cruise control actuator? It seems it would not be too difficult to use a microcontroller or Arduino to read RPM and then PWM the noid to maintain a desired speed. You could derive RPM from the 12V side of the ignition coils without affecting any of the ECU sensors. The noid revs the engine during starting, right? The only potential problem I see with this would be the duty cycle of the noid. You might need to take steps to keep it cool enough, but I do not know that this would be a problem at highway speeds. Any thoughts? | ||
| Captain_america |
No, the noid does not have to due with start up. The Idle Air Control IAC revs the engine at start up and if you slowly let the clutch out without applying throttle. | ||
| Syonyk |
It's been a bit since I poked around in there, but I believe the solenoid pulls the secondary throttle butterflies CLOSED when it actuates. So, the only way to use it as a cruise control would be to have the throttle open further than needed to cruise, and restrict airflow with the solenoid. I'm not sure I'd want to do that - hold the throttle way open & trust the solenoid to keep things in check. A failure of that system, instead of going to closed throttle, would cause the bike to accelerate rapidly. Unless I'm somehow completely backwards on the linkages, I don't think it's possible. Or were you talking about using it as an actuator and redoing the linkages so it pulls the throttle open? | ||
| Hildstrom |
Okay. I did not realize it was responsible for closing the throttle, but that makes sense given the problems people have described. The second photo in this post seems to agree with it closing the throttle. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=1558241#POST1558241 I do not think it would take much cable rerouting or bracket wizardry to make it pull the throttle open instead. | ||
| T_man |
That would have been a brilliant use for that solenoid if you could reverse the linkages... Good on ya! | ||
| Captain_america |
I would like to use the noid to make an ejection seat! that'd be dope. | ||
| Mrrickbo |
It could be done, if you just hooked it up straight to the throttle body linkage to pull it open, and a control system to open and shut it down. Who's good at electrical engineering? | ||
| Hildstrom |
I've done a couple of different projects with microcontrollers before, so I don't think it would be too bad. | ||
| Kirb |
EE here...there are a few questions that would concern me- duty cycle of the 'noid- can this thing be powered on all the time without burning out? ablity of the 'noid to modulate mid-stroke smoothly- linear? power required to operate the 'noid as this will impact the electronics needed to run it. Tests would need to be done on a bench with a varible power supply and a few meters. Anyone want to donate the removed 'noid to do these tests? | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
there was a thread awhile ago about someone selling one on ebay | ||
| Mrrickbo |
I'll give you mine if you get me the resistor plug that comes from Buell so not to throw any codes. If it ended up working and my noid survived, to get it back so I could be one of the testers to see how it worked one the road. What ya think, sound cool? | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
even with the resistor plug it will throw a code if you hit where the the noid would normaly activate | ||
| Mrrickbo |
There was someone on here or some other forum, they put the resistor in and haven't had a problem with it. | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
i wouldnt exactly call it a problem just if you hit the rpm range where the noid is supoised to close off the throttle the ecm says wtf the throttle didnt close and disables the circut engine light comes on till the key is cycled off then back on and ith shows in the diagnostic history | ||
| Mrrickbo |
LOL.... Okay, I understand now. I disconnected my the other day and reconnected it. Thats what mine did. | ||
| Highscore |
If the solenoid would have three wires it would be an controlled device. At the 1125, there just two wires powering the actuator. This solenoid is just an on/off-switch.It is a simple electromagnet. Its only function is to shut down the throttle plates, although the command by the grip is WOT, to slow down the bike during its acceleration during noise emission testing. The mechanics of the throttle body would allow a continuous movement and control of throttle position by a real proportional operated solenoid. A stepper motor here would be the key for traction control. (I am an "expert" for this device, I guess I am the only person who received a new solenoid by HD-warranty, because the old one was to weak to move the throttles. I needed this artificial slow down on the "noise track" to pass the EC-approval for the REMUS -pipe. With real WOT on acceleration even the bike with stock muffler exceeds the limits by far.) (Message edited by Highscore on January 29, 2010) | ||
| Toysgarage |
hey does anyone know the resistance of that solenoid? | ||
| Kirb |
Any solenoid can be modulated even if 2 wire. The trick is to have a solenoid that is capable of having a pulsed signal without heating up too much. Using the 'noid as a cruise control would be a little easier since pulling the throttles open would only be fighting the resistance of the springs. I've got to pull my airbox off for a high bar kit soon...I'll take a look to see if this idea is a good one or not. | ||
| Vtwinbuell |
This is a joke right? I know everyone is an expert on the internet, but a solenoid is an on/of device, sure you can modulate it to adjust the pull force(not location), however if you know anything about magnetism, you would know that that pull force also changes with the distance between the two objects. So to attempt this you would also need an encoder to calculate the force based on position and current across the coil, I guess the TPS could work for this. This is a pointless endeavor since the solenoid increases force as the current increases and distance decreases. One of these things needs to be opposite for proper control. I will leave this to the "internet experts". I know nothing. | ||
| Ohsoslow |
no the noid wouldnt work, it is an on/off thing, you would need a stepper motor of sorts to do a cruise control set up. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
so an idle air control motor could be used provided it makes enough pull strength and the pull could be amplified to match what would be needed.... | ||
| Nillaice |
I will leave this to the "internet experts". I know nothing.  okay then. how about this; play with the pull-open cable length to get it at a throttle position so when the 'on-off solenoid' is energized, the throttle position will maintain a desired sped in a given gear. and then alls you gotsta to is flick the switch when you wants it and it will level out at the desired speed. it would function similarly to a throttle, lock and not a true cruise-control system, but ... can the internet experts agree the above is at least plausible? | ||
| Swalker |
I'm no expert. But I agree with Nillaice, just set the linkage up so that when the solenoid is energized it will pull the throttle to the desired position. When its not energized its off. Not an actual cruise, but a very nice throttle lock. Did something like this on my busa, just set it up so that the fast idle lever pulls the throttle open more and it works great. |
