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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » New 1125R/CR Owner Information » Dyno Charts! » Stock '09 CR - brand new, 300 miles, 300 miles with 152 flash « Previous Next »

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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Green is brand new, 12 miles, right out of the box.

Blue is stock flash, 300 miles (immediately before uploading 152 flash).

Red is 152 flash, 300 miles (same day, right after the flash).

First is STD correction.
Second is SAE.
Third is uncorrected.











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Mountainstorm
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think that should shut up anyone that doesn't think Buell is capable of producing good calibrations for their bikes. Nice gains.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yah. And it is *totally* stock, noid and all.

Makes me drool thinking about the new EBR plug-n-play ECM's : )
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Blackflash
Posted on Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the accurate posting mountainstorm.Good stuff!!
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Prowler
Posted on Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 07:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I've got a stupid question, is the 152 flash the latest from your local dealer or from elsewhere? And......why is a stock CR putting out 10 HP more than the other piped bikes noted on a dynojet dyno?

(Message edited by prowler on January 28, 2010)
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I may not understand your question Prowler; I think the discussion so far suggests different dynos produce different results based on a number of variables including altitude and temperature.

Comparing one dyno to another is a bad idea.

Looking at three things here and most importantly all on the same dyno.

1. the base tune as delivered
2. a few miles later (suggests engine loosening up).
3. with a 152 flash

same three things just sliced and diced to varying viewpoints.

dannybuell
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While I'm proud of my total numbers...I'm fully aware they don't jibe with the rest of what we're seeing. This is not a case of "nyah-nyah, I've got more power", but as noted above, it's a chance to show the same bike, on the same dyno, progressing through updates. Power increase in 300 miles is amazing; curve smoothing from my original flash (I have to pull the birth sheet, but I want to say it was 12z) to the 152 is equally noticable. Rideability is through the roof now - no herky-jerky at all.

Yes, the 152 is the latest dealer flash for the CR. I believe the R counterpart is 142 (the difference being gearing/speedo calibration between R and CR).

As to my thoughts on the total numbers, and the stock pipe being the best street pipe for the 1125? I won't go there. I've seen the cutaway of the stocker - it's a work of art, and they did it for a reason. Whether the sheet of paper says 143 or 123 - my butt says "this damn thing RUNS!!".

And I'm just gonna leave it be : )

We need some good charts showing - same flash, same day, same temps, same dyno - a stock pipe versus aftermarket before I'll think about switching. I likelikeLOVE the Buell / EBR race system, but I know race systems are tuned for WFO. Which is great for winning races. But I ride in traffic. The bike does just what I want it to now, I'm not gonna mess with success just yet.
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Thursday, January 28, 2010 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Something that bears stating is that picking up 10rwhp after just 300 miles of break-in is HUGE. Given that you had the bike on the dyno with just 12 miles on the clock suggests that your break-in procedure was at least similar to the Motoman method. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Assuming that you did follow the Motoman method or something similar, that goes a long way towards supporting a "run it hard" break-in for optimum power.

While I would never admit to following a break-in method that deviates from factory recommendation on a vehicle that is under warranty, I have to say that I definitely endorse the Motoman method.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, January 29, 2010 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, we baseline all our new bikes at PDI as a matter of course. It's a service procedure more than anything - 12 months down the road the customer comes back saying "I have this huge flat spot at XX rpm now, and it wasn't there before". We have the PDI chart on file. We run the bike again and compare charts - it's a diagnostic tool. It also allows us to find -right off the bat - a bike that isn't performing the way it should, and keep it off the floor until we fix it.

I'm sure folks will flame away about "you can't do that to a new bike" and all that. We've been doing it for years and haven't popped a motor yet. One run through third gear isn't going to blow a bike up.

That said...I stuck to the manufacturer break-in procedure. Keeping it under 7500 is a bitch! ; ) Since we're coldcoldCOLD right now, it was getting extended warmups before riding - I always wait till "cold" stops flashing - and given the cold tires and roads I wasn't even pushing it all that hard on back roads. I confess to some WOT 6th gear passes around morons who refuse to yield the left (also known as the PASSING) lane on the highway...but those also stayed under 7500. So...I stuck to the book. A couple times guilt spoke up in the back of my head "you shouldn't do that...", but only a couple : )
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Jeepinbueller
Posted on Friday, January 29, 2010 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hear ya on keeping it under 6K for 300 miles and 7.5K until 620. Only 350 on it right now ... it's really hard not to play above 7.5K.

I rode aggressively for the first 30-40 miles, taking it up to 6K and decelerating the engine under load (not engine braking), varying engine speed, etc. This, as far as I know, IS the Motoman method as he states to adhere to the manufacturer's engine speed limitations while breaking in.
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Buellishness
Posted on Friday, March 12, 2010 - 02:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i babied it first few hundred then rode it for what it is!!!! max power is 10k plus a few, clutch feels right when you wind it up in every gear. if it cant hold up I'll get one that can.
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Buellishness
Posted on Friday, March 12, 2010 - 02:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

btw I totaly agree with ratbuell about the pipe and the bike as is the bike kills.

my bike gets zero horsepower to the street cause it flys
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