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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through December 05, 2009 » Syn oil????? » Archive through November 23, 2009 « Previous Next »

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Swamp2
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 07:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


I'll ask again tonight, does the search/archives work on this website or are the users just not using it?

Well, let's face it - there's only a finite number of fresh topics to discuss. I think a lot of folks would rather have fresh dialog on "stale" topics rather than deal with the cumbersome search process. Maybe part laziness, but also it's more socially engaging. And, knowledge doesn't stay static even if the topic is old. I've still yet to see a definitive conclusion here on this particular topic...
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Palerider
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Says right on the bottle of Syn 3 that it does not inhibit the break in process.
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Cafefun
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's my experince with Amsoil, take it for what it's worth. I was running Suzuki synthetic in my ZX 14 and after 185 passes took the time to look at the clutch plates and look for burnt or warped steels and fibers. clutch looked like new put it right back in. went to the track with fresh Amsoil in and made 10 runs and took the clutch back out to inspect before a big race the next weekend and the fibers where black and the steels where burnt blue. so in my application I won't run amsoil again. there's no doubt with amsoil from day one I would have never got any where close to 200 runs on the clutch. it may be find for normal riding but I won't use it under extreme conditions.
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Hellgate
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh I love oil threads! Endless discussion based on hear-say.

Everything I know about synthetic oil is summed up by my buddy Nate.

"I know that you may be considering the use of synthetic oil in your bikes. But you really should Very cautious of synthetic oil! It can do terrible things both to you, and to your bike. Synthetic oil will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.

Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically and without warning, dropping your bike flat on the rocky ground! But that's not all . . . . Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. Synthetic oil will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and then she will never ride with, or sleep with, you again. Synthetic oil coats your oil sight window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak out onto the ground overnight, force your favorite dog to drink it at gunpoint, and he will then die a slow horrible writhing death.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam all your zippers shut. Synthetic oil will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. Synthetic oil will make it rain during rallies and on every weekend. It will causing your cam drive to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every sixteen miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp. Synthetic oil then voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555 overnight. It also dries out your wet clutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch cable or slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your face shield and make your gloves shrink two sizes the night before track day. Synthetic oil will then steal your neutral and sell it for $1.25.

So let's be careful out there"
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Milleniumx1
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm going to drain mine today and just run KY Jelly in this bitch ... That's slippery, and I've never read ONE thread where someone claimed running KY destroyed their engine ; )

Mike
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Fast1075
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I love it when a discussion splits into the two camps of "scientific proof" vs "imperical observation"....

My opinion is that the guys in the trenches who work with a product day to day as a part of their profession are the ones with their fingers on the pulse. I highly respect the opinions of those guys (like Terry who build and have built world class racing engines).

I also know that there is a common trait among most people...I call it "my shiat is better than your shiat"...in a lot of cases, both are equal...either good or bad.

I don't own an 1125...but I do have some experience with engines with finger follower valvetrains...there is were you want the best anti-wear additives like the zinc and moly compounds. I am not a paper carrying engineer, so I will withhold further comments at the risk of ridicule from the "scientific proof" community. I still have rockers, followers, and cams lying around that died from poor lubrication.

The item I will offer my opinion about is the effects on the clutch. The wrong oil will cause clutch failure...incorrect oil allows the plates to slip under load...the resulting slippage causes heat which fries the fiber plates and overheats the steel plates...you end up with a pile of expensive junk that will repeat if you stay on the same program.

There are a lot of good oils out there, and some that range from less than ideal to outright junk...one oil that has good anti-wear properties, making it good for some of the engine parts may lack the anti-shock properties to keep roller bearings and gears in good condition for example.

Choose carefully...oil bad for a clutch shows up immediately, but poor lubrication of the valvetrain (for example) may take a while to rear it's head...hopefully no one has a real problem with that beyond the few that have had cam lobe and follower wear. (hopefully just caused by a poor batch of parts)...

Syn3 is rebadged Citgo Semi-synth...and is fine for the roller cammed XB motor...if I had a '25...I would be looking for the best anti-wear package I could find (the old tried and trued zinc/moly).

And the KY is only recommended if your ambient temperature is above 120 degrees...the flow point temperature is kind of high ; )
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Buelldyno_guy
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

God this is fun, you guys are great, it's a real pleasure to know you even it's only here. Terry
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Xodot
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hellgate - please say thanks to Nate for the best laugh of my day! That's worthy of a cut/paste/send!
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Duchunter
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So where does that Citgo Semi-synth info come from?
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Palerider
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't know where semi-synth came from. No where on the bottle does it say it is a semi synthetic blend or does it mention petroleum based stock. It does say it uses a mix of synthetic based stock.
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Dc29
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My great grand dad used Marvel Mystery oil in his Studebakers and once went 50k with out a rebuild.LOL...
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Buelldyno_guy
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW -  Marvel Mystery Oil is the only authorized oil to be used as "Knocker-loose" on the first stage High Pressure Turbine blades on PWA 2000 engines when disassembled. Something about the additives in other oils are not good for the high tech alloys. Who would of thunk. ... lol
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Skntpig
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok what would be the best zinc/moly oil? Maybe just the tried and true Marvel Mystery Oil in a new motor or the KY fix?

How many quarts? What chain lube do you use?
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Yugi
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> So where does that Citgo Semi-synth info come from?

Here is a quote from a V-twin forum:

Finally got a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on the SYN-3 after two months of trying. It is in fact manufactured by Citgo Petroleum. Composition section reads like this:

Component
CAS #
Concentration

(1) 1-Decene Homopolymer, hydrogenated
68037-01-4
50% - 70%

(2) Proprietary Ingredients
Proprietary Mixture
1% - 10%

(3) Polyisobutylene
9003-27-4
1% - 10%

(4) Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic
64742-54-7
0% - 20%

(5) Distillates, Petroleum, Solvent-Refined Heavy Paraffinic
64741-88-4
0% - 20%

(6) Zinc Alkyldithiophosphate
68649-42-3
0% - 2%

Item 1 is a Group IV base oil. I was unable to locate the manufacturer of this base oil. Group IV and V base oils are the only "true" synthetics to the cognoscenti.

Item 2 is probably their additive package (boron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorous, moly), but it is conceivable there could also be some "secret" synthetic oil, maybe an ester type oil, included in it.

Item 3 is a fancy name for synthetic rubber (or elastomer) but this is probably considered to be "synthetic" oil as well.

However, Item 4 is a Group II base oil, namely Conoco Pure Performance Base Oil, either 110N, 225N or 600N. To my knowledge, no one is calling a Group II oil a synthetic.

Research yielded no information on the group number of Item 5 but it is Conoco's Cit-Con 650N Base Oil. Can't help but presume that it is a Group I oil as it is solvent refined. While they have their place, most quality blenders are not using Group I oils in thier premium motor oils and they certainly are not considered synthetics. However, I stand to be corrected.

(Also got a MSDS for the HD 360 20w50 oil. The major base oil constituients in it are the same ones as are listed in Items 4 & 5 above.)

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/hot-topics/24547 -nitty-gritty-syn3.html
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Court
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The good news is that, given modern oil specifications. . . you can put ANYTHING in most cars and bikes.

I wouldn't suggest it . . . but I'll bet you could put the cheapest oil you can buy in a bike, drain it out and pin the throttle for an hour. Oil, overall, has gotten very, very good. There really are no "bad" ones.

That being said . . I bought a new car last week and immediately took it in, had the oil drained and filled with Mobil 1 as I did in my F-150 and CLK350C.

In addition, I change the oil at less than half the recommended intervals . . I grew up with the "3,000 mile" mindset and I change the filter with every change.

Of course . . I have the transmission, power steering, brake fluid and differential drained, flushed and filled annually.

Overkill.
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

court,
what do you run in your motorcycles??

Jake
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Court
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Syn3
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 08:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, any imparticular reason to why you chose to run Syn3?? Just wonderin...

Jake
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Ponti1
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That being said . . I bought a new car last week and immediately took it in, had the oil drained and filled with Mobil 1 as I did in my F-150 and CLK350C.

In addition, I change the oil at less than half the recommended intervals . . I grew up with the "3,000 mile" mindset and I change the filter with every change.

Of course . . I have the transmission, power steering, brake fluid and differential drained, flushed and filled annually.

Overkill.


You should make sure to put your used vehicles on sale here...After reading that, I bet you'd have lots of people lining up!
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Mrbuell
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow all I did was asked a simple question. Put a 100 miles on at trackday, Have 200 miles on the bike Guess it is time to put Redline 10/40 in the beast
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Fast1075
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh....here is a tip for CafeFun...call the guys at MTC Engineering and buy a set of hardchrome steels for the clutch...well worth the money.
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Court
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>Thanks, any imparticular reason to why you chose to run Syn3?? Just wonderin...

The reasons are baseless and stupid. I am one of the few folks who will admit that. They go something like this.

  • I (patently unqualified to make the judgement) think synthetic is better cause it's newer.
  • It's more expensive, ergo it should be better.
  • The total cost of motorcycle oil in a year is less than I spend on cheeseburgers in a month.
  • I read on the Internet that it's better


As you can see I have ABSOLUTELY NO sound reason.

Unfortunately the car going back goes back to Mercedes-Benz . . . one of the few I have ever leased. However when I sold my last 9 year old F-250 the dealer opened the hood and the guy commented that it looked new at 147,000 miles. I used to keep the engine bay meticulously clean . . a habit acquired when I had my 3 Taurus SHOs years ago.

My current truck is a "beater" . . . I take good care of it but we're not spending time waxing under the hood as in the past.

The next car (tentatively late next spring) will be special, babied and delivered with Mobil 1.

We're all a bunch of sicko's, eh?

: )
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2009cr
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh man... I love oil threads!!! Laughing my butt off here... KY, slippery, fingers, Studebakers, knockers, Citgo, etc. How come no one mentioned the Citgo/terrorist connection? I use Mobil 1.
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Yugi
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Syn3 is overpriced. You can buy a semi-synthetic motorcycle oil much cheaper than a Syn3, for example Castrol 20w-50 Power RS V-twin 4T.
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Court
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>>Syn3 is overpriced.

Big deal . . so are most the $15 cheeseburgers and $25 Harley t-shirts.

What's your point?

All my bikes were serviced in strict accordance with the service manuals and the total cost of oil wouldn't buy you and I dinner in a Manhattan restaurant.

Most folks . . . I'd be willing to bet. . . .buy and change oil for the same stupid reasons I stated above . . . just won't admit it.

I've raised stupidity to an art form . . . .
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Tbenson
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 Court, continuous and/or preventative maintenance is the key, not so much the brand for everyday use!

I also overkill with my vehicles maintenance schedule, always have and always will!

I am not sold on one particular brand, but I do try to stay consistent with it, once I choose what oil and filter will be used.
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Whynot
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After reading all these posts, I'm gonna switch from Syn3 to Mobil 1 v twin 20-50 for my second change coming up at 3600 miles. Last time I checked, around $8 a qt at auto zone. Oh, heck, maybe I'll do it now at 3,535 miles. Like tomorrow, when it's raining.

Anyway, does anyone really NOT change the filter as recommended at alternate changes? What's the deal with that?
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Gotlime
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just like changing oil. I actually look forward to it. I do it waaayy too much, cause it's fun.

Except in boats..............

Talk about a sicko. LOL
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Tbenson
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The filter should be the first and main thing that is changed, in my opinion.

I always change the filter at every oil change, on everything I own, that is me though.
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Tbenson
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gotlime,
Maybe there is a support group for that?
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