| Author | Message | ||
     Aeholton |
Picked up the bars that I had modified. Will install and test this weekend. In preparation, I had a longer clutch line made. Should be OK on the right side. For now here are a couple of pictures:   | ||
| Bigblock352 |
Sweet, hope it turns out well. I will be looking to do the same thing. | ||
| Ccryder |
Looks pretty good. Here is an alternative that offers much more flexability: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/354781.html Even with the convertibars I didn't need longer throttle cables. They can be re-routed around the fairing mount to get more slack. Neil S. | ||
| Tpoppa |
Personally, I think the Convertibars look a little sloppy. I don't like the unused stock mounting holes. | ||
| Ccryder |
Sloppy or not, nothing else allows you to tailor your grips to you and your preferences. A degree here or there makes a HUGE difference. You can always cut off the old mounts or, use the to support other devices. | ||
| Aeholton |
Yeah, not real fond of the way the mounting holes look with convertibars. As for adjustability, I don't do track days. I'm more the set it and forget it type. Hopefully this ~1" rise will be perfect and I can move on to the next project. | ||
| Aeholton |
Put them on today along with the Buell traction grips. Only had time to ride to the dealer and back before tackling some honey-do's. Feels great. A lot better in stop and go traffic. No clearance issues what-so-ever. Here are a couple of pictures:     | ||
| Avc8130 |
Looks great! ac | ||
| Dbolemiss |
I like it,I need to do some shopping around to find a place to make me a set of these. | ||
| Dc29 |
Looks good,have thought about the exact same thing myself,u beat me to it.What are the small holes for? Let us all know how the vibration feels compared to the original position. | ||
| Aeholton |
The small holes are pre-drilled from the factory. They are for plastic nubs on the switch gear housing to go in. Haven't noticed any difference in vibration from the stock bars. Coming from an XB12R, vibration is nothing on the 1125r. | ||
| Nillaice |
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| Sparky |
Nice job! Are they all new (steel) material or modified stock ones? | ||
| Aeholton |
Modified stock. Picked up an extra set of stock bars from Al at American Sport Bike and had them modified locally. (Message edited by aeholton on November 17, 2009) | ||
| Liquorwhere |
Looks good, any clearance issues on the fairing? I remember when you were talking about this at Fletchers a few weeks back and I was wondering if it affected your ability to lock the front wheel. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Adrian, Bravo....I had a set pretty much just like that laid out on my CAD tube (the 2nd of 4 different iterations of 1125R bar risers I've done so far), but convinced myself that the wires and cables that were launching under the triple clamp were going to run smack into the sockets if I raised them like that. Sure doesn't seem to. Got any close up pictures of the throttle cable clearances? Any issues there? If it works well like that, I may just go ahead and produce the design I'd already completed. Al | ||
| Tpoppa |
Al, Glad you posted in this thread. If you make them, I'll be buying a set. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Neil, I agree with your assessment about the flexibility with the Convertibars, but also agree with others that the convertibars with the stock handblebar sockets retained is just too hideous to leave. So the 4th iteration of the risers that I've been working on was really just a new top triple clamp without the bar sockets to work with the convertibars. This would do two things: 1) it would fix the cosmetic issue. 2) it would allow the cyclops eye of the Convertibar to rotate more to the front, instead of being on the side, so that they didn't have to be so darned wide. If that bar socket wasn't there, and you rotated the convertibars forward a bit, do you think they'd hit the fairing? I've got a couple sets of the convertibars here and an extra triple clamp that I'm going to machine the sockets off to try. I may release BOTH solutions. Al | ||
| Ccryder |
Al: These might help. If you need the higher rez let me know. I think you are headed in a good direction.     Your thinking is correct if the stock mounts are removed. You will be able to get 1.5"-2" rise with the brackets rotated around front. I wanted the bars to be up as well as back for my reach challenged torso and arms. The location of the clamps is about as far to the rear as they can be located with out contacting the frame. Let me know if I can help more. Neil S. | ||
| Aeholton |
Adrian, Bravo....I had a set pretty much just like that laid out on my CAD tube (the 2nd of 4 different iterations of 1125R bar risers I've done so far), but convinced myself that the wires and cables that were launching under the triple clamp were going to run smack into the sockets if I raised them like that. Sure doesn't seem to. Got any close up pictures of the throttle cable clearances? Any issues there? If it works well like that, I may just go ahead and produce the design I'd already completed. I had a custom clutch 47" clutch line made by cyclebrakes.com. I re-routed the throttle cables to the underside of the fairing bracket. I had to drill new alignment holes on the bars which moved the controls out 20mm on each side. Had to do this for clearance of the swith/connector/wires on the bottom of the clutch lever on the left side and brake light switch on the right side. I then installed the plastic endcaps from the stock bars on the end of the new bars and put the grips over them. This worked great as the Buell traction grips are closed at the end anyhow. I, also, took the wires to the brake switch out of the little routing bracket at the center of the triple tree. There are no clearance issue with the fairing. I can move steering from lock to lock. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Very cool...I'll get cracking on this. In fact, I already stopped by my machine shop to get some producibility inputs. I think I can make these available in the not so distant future. And they'd be from scratch, not from machined Buell bars, so there won't be any compromise in the bar end treatment with regard to the 20mm extension. 20mm I can live with. Thanks Adrian! Al | ||
| Whynot |
Al -- I am standing by for this new product offering! -Kurt | ||
| Aeholton |
Cool Al. Give me a call if you need any further information. | ||
| Dms |
Hey Al, a kit with bars with about the same dimensions as Adrian's would greatly assist in my plan to put your kids through college by buying every last item on the American Sport Bike web site. Any clue if this could be done with the stock brake, throttle & clutch lines, or will longer replacements be required? | ||
| Aeholton |
Dms - There was not enough slack in the clutch line to come up the short distance that I did. Throttle and brake line (assuming you have the lasted recall length line) had sufficient length. If Al can offer a kit with new clutch line, it would be terrific. | ||
| Sknight |
That looks pretty cool, does it flex any? Looks like it would need a gusset underneath it. I may have to go that route if I can't get my right hand to stop falling asleep. | ||
| Aeholton |
No flex. | ||
| Joesbuell |
Great idea and look well done, but I think they need to be braced or thicker material at the welded points, there aluminium aren't they? the forces on that thin piece is going to be huge under heavy braking! Just my technical opinion  Otherwise they look awesome  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Made from OEM bars, which are stainless, not Aluminum. I'm thinking a bit thicker on the riser plate as well, but will have to look at some numbers first. Al | ||
| Ccryder |
Numbers are good, especially before the fact. That would be a VERY bad failure mode!!!!!!! |
