| Author | Message | ||
     Buzzie |
Yep I yelled out loud. Sorry. Since our beloved Buell Co. is no more....and the babies are selling at an alarming rate...(I bought one too), it also means that I am going to be busy squaring away new customer concerns. I have encountered a few..but not all and was hoping you guys could help. I would like to hear your brief description of the major problems you have encountered and the fixes that seem to work the best. I have encountered and fixed a few already myself....charging problems ..the reflashes...turn signals etc...what I am wanting is a more detailed list from a larger group. I only had a handful of customers who had a limited number of problems..... Most inclusive list of problems and fixes ...not rants and raves. Help me maintain my service rep. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Turn signals. Buell only sells the complete signal (housing, stalk, wires, etc.), but you want to just swap the module -- one screw and two miniature spade connectors. Water gets into tail light due to the open hole where the fender should be and the non-gasketed design of the tail light. The clear lens for the tag illumination (on XBs -- on the 1125, it serves no purpose) is not sealed and water can get in around it, too. Strongly suggest that you look for signs of water damage (corrosion in the socket). If the brake/tail light fails and the customer is rear-ended, you're talking all kinds of legal exposure. I swapped to the 2010 LED tail light, which is sealed. To keep the 2008/2009 part, you will need to find a way to seal it better -- if you have customers who ride in the rain. RTV might be your friend. Battery draining. Dealer reflashed the ECM and the bike runs better and battery drain problem seems resolved. High bar kit throttle cables have too much friction. Not solved yet, but will experiment with routing. Seat mounting. Uses a pair of Torx fasteners under the seat and it sucks. They screw into soft brass inserts in the frame and it's easy to cross-thread them. Difficult to remove and replace, especially with the Select Seat. American Sportbike has a quick-release kit, but it puts a nut between the seat pan and the frame, which I don't like. Oil checks are annoying and the dipstick is easy to cross-thread if you're not careful. I started to, but caught it before damage was done. Gas smell after shutdown. Best fix: Develop a fondness for the smell of gasoline. Mirrors can't be adjusted high enough to see with clubman bars. Rotate the clutch/brake levers a few degrees forwards. Rear brake switch shorted on. Fiddled with it for a while and got it working. Tell the customer, who is an electrical engineer who builds satellites, that you don't trust his diagnosis of the problem and make him bring the bike in. When it works at the dealership, refuse to replace the part. (That's how my dealership handled that problem, anyway.) Hope some of this helped. | ||
| Swamp2 |
Hey Fmaxwell, I'm an electrical engineer who builds satellites, too! I'm not kidding. Good info. Buzzie, it's good of you to solicit this info to help your customers. I'm interested to see what else surfaces. | ||
| Buzzie |
hadnt heard about the tail light.. or throttle cable.. Fmax...check your horn wires for chaffing on the brake light short. i thought some were using a reflective tape for the fuel boiling and gas smell? was that not the best fix that had been found.? | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
Dealing with a system voltage error right now po562 code. Will find out more apparently dealer has fixed 3 stators so far on 1125's where I am at. | ||
| Buzzie |
.....they already have the stator updated once....hmmm...wondering if the grounds are ok.. Anyway....it that it? that the most of the problems? | ||
| Moosestang |
Has no one had the large coolant hose on the left side rub through? I noticed it rubs on the frame and mine had a nice rub mark on it. The frame is not sharp or all that rough, but it looked like it could eventually cause a coolant leak. I simply put a small piece of rubber hose between the two. | ||
| Buzzie |
Moose...thats a new one thanks.. anyone had a problem with the throttle sticking on the breather hose? other electrical gremlins? mechanical problems besides the bearings, clutch piston? | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Swamp2, "Hey Fmaxwell, I'm an electrical engineer who builds satellites, too! I'm not kidding." Cool! I worked on the Dawn space probe, a military bird, OCO (launch vehicle fairing failed to separate), and a few science satellites. I've managed to avoid being assigned to geo comm satellites, which is not as much fun (at least to me). I've done three launch campaigns in recent years, but begged off this year. I did manage to get them to truck my XB12Ss out to California for the multi-month OCO launch campaign, so I got some good riding in out there. Just don't try to convince your dealer that you know how to diagnose a rear brake switch failure. I unplugged my rear brake switch and the brake lights went out. Plugged it in, they came back on (with the pedal not depressed). Tapped on the switch and the light went out and switch started working again. Yeah, there's a real mystery wrapped in an enigma when it comes to figuring out what part is questionable. | ||
| Sknight |
I must be lucky. My local HD service dept has been pretty good to me so far. My turn signals gave out on the ride home after purchase, when I called to ask about it I told him I confirmed power and ground under a load. No questions he ordered two rear turn signals for me. Great South HD has been great so far. | ||
| Buzzie |
Fmax...the horn wiring is related to the brake light circuit ...chafed wires at the horn will blow the brake light fuse. | ||
| Buzzie |
I gotta stop skimming when i read posts. you guys get to literal....are any of you women? | ||
| Fmaxwell |
@Buzzie, Thanks for the tip on the horn wiring. The problem that I had was that the brake light was stuck on with no one touching the brake pedal or lever. The pressure-operated hydraulic switch on the rear brake was stuck closed (brake light illuminated). | ||
| Buzzie |
by the way max...i have already replaced one caliper and one brake disc and rotor because the master cylinder stuck...that would cover your light staying on.. also indicating another possible problem for folks | ||
| Fmaxwell |
@Buzzie, Thanks for that heads-up. I really do appreciate your advice. I'll check the rotor and caliper for signs of overheating and excessive pad/rotor wear. |
