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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through November 02, 2009 » Oil Check Questions and Break-in Oil Change Notes « Previous Next »

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Fmaxwell
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I keep my bike in an enclosed trailer where it sits completely upright. Can I cold-check in the morning or does the cold check have to start with the bike on the side stand, move to the upright position, and wait one minute?

I performed the oil change today 589mi on my 1125CR and it went well with little oil spilled -- thanks to all of the warnings here. I drained it on a rear stand and then finished off by rocking it from one side to the other after removing the stand.

The particles on the magnetic drain plug were so fine that it was like a fine gray sludge. Nothing like what I saw on my XB12Ss, which had visible splinters of metal after break-in. Oil and filter looked way better than I expected, too.

Put in three quarts of Mobil 1, V-Twin 20W-50 and then rode around and did a hot oil check. It was touching the overfull mark. So a used my oil sucker and removed a little. Rode around, checked again, and it was 1/2 way between maximum and overfull. WTF? How can something be higher than "Maximum" and not be Overfull?

Right? Drain some? Check cold? Help is definitely appreciated right now.
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Metalrabbit
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you drained all the oil you can get out between the 2 drain plugs and the filter then 3 quarts should be fine. I have done the same on mine 4 times so far and its been all good.

The "fine gray sludge" is common around the magnet.

(Message edited by metalrabbit on November 01, 2009)
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Fmaxwell
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. That gray sludge is exactly what I wanted to see from a break-in -- stuff like the crosshatching being taken off of the cylinder walls by the rings.

I was a bit nervous about the torque specs on the oil filter housing screws (97 in/lbs.), but I snuck up on it and it seemed to work fine. There are a lot of threads they are burying, but still a lot for such little fasteners.

The break-in on the tranny of my XB12Ss had some significant size metal splinters. This Rotax is obviously put together quite a bit better. I'm probably about a couple of ounces under 3 qts. and a hot check puts it right between Max and Overfull, so I hope that's okay.
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Moosestang
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine reads the same on my 09 cr. I've been riding with the full 3 quarts in it, but read the 09 manual and it recommends 2.7 quarts. I believe the CR has a different dipstick than the R or they changed the dipstick for 09. If you check the 08 manual and the 09 manual, the dipstick pictures are different.

Mine is at the max line doing a cold check, FWIW.

Anyway, if it's not over the overfilled mark, then it's not overfilled. That's your margin of error.

Any increase in engine noise with the mobil 1?

(Message edited by moosestang on November 01, 2009)
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Fmaxwell
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I noticed no change in engine noise -- which, since they were both synthetics of the same weight, I didn't expect much. I think that the shifting may be slightly better, but it's too early for me to say that definitively.

They did change the dipstick because the initial pointy one was mismarked, indicating .5L between Min and Max when it was supposed to say .25L. There was a service bulletin on this.

Word of warning: I started to cross-thread the dipstick. It's very soft and it's relatively small diameter threads, so it's not tough to do. Watch out for that.
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Moosestang
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bike comes with conventional oil, pretty sure that was the official consensus. Also mine tested out to a 40 weight with only 115 miles on it, so either it sheared really quick or it was never a 50 weight oil.

I think the dipstick is soft because it gets so freaking hot! You wouldn't think plastic could get that hot without melting.
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

True, the syn 3 is not full synthetic... I bought enough for my first 2 oil changes when I picked up the bike, did the first one already so 1 more to go then I will swap over to a full synthetic.

Also when I did my first service i put in 3 qts, hot checked... over full, sucked some out, hot checked and eventually got it to the full line after about 5 times... pulled out about .25 qts. after a week its now half way between the low/full line.... I hate the oil check procedure on this thing. Next time I'm dumping in 3 qts and calling it goood.

(Message edited by xtreme6669 on November 01, 2009)
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Blur
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So is the factory oil conventional or SYN3?
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