| Author | Message | ||
     Fmaxwell |
Like many people, I can't tilt the glass up enough in the mirrors to see anything but my thigh. I had hoped that the housing could rotate, but no deal. I've searched for, and failed to locate, photos or info about what's behind the glass. Is it possible to remove the glass and mod the mirror so that the housing is rotated about ten degrees (tilted up)? I really don't want to rotate all of my controls as I am happy with where they are now. Nor do I want to go with different signals and mirrors. Maybe I'll have no choice, but I'd like to explore my options.} | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
I did not take mine apart before I took them off, But a TINY change in the rotation of the assembly makes a big difference, Loosen everything up and play with it. R | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'll have to try that too- I've already noticed the same thing. | ||
| Dmhines |
Anybody know if aftermarket LED directionals are plug and play with the factory front directional wiring? If figure the harness is alreayd setup to properly control LED's. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Speaking as an electrical engineer, there's more to it than whether it's LED or incandescent. The primary question is how much current the factory electronics expects and can drive. I can get LEDs that consume just a few milliwatts or get ones that consume 3 or more watts -- each. I know that the rear LED direction signals are rated at 2.05W (for comparison, the 2010 incandescent ones are 5W). Don't know about the front turn signals. I'd be very careful as replacing the instrument cluster (which I think contains the controller for the lights) is very expensive. You're probably okay with somewhat less current draw, but I would not go for more. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
The front lights are just plug in's with bullet connectors. Piece of cake to change them. R | ||
| Stevej |
they are not plug and play with most aftermarket LED turn signals I have seen as the factory harness has a male bullet connector on one wire and a female bullet on the other and most aftermarket ones are male on both wires. the thing to do is modify the wire on the turn signal side and leave the bikes wires as is by putting a female bullet on the end of the turn signal wire to mate with the bikes male connector. and speaking as an electrical technician the flasher worked fine with the LED signals I bought at Cycle Gear and pulls the same amount of amperage as the stockers did as checked with a clamp on ammeter. | ||
| Dmhines |
Cool. Have a link or part # for the cyclegear flashers? | ||
| Fmaxwell |
Thanks Stevej. I didn't know if the 1125R used a conventional flasher or if the switching was via a power FET or relay in the instrument cluster. I thought it was the latter, but I'm no expert on the 1125CR -- yet. | ||
| Hughlysses |
R- thanks for the tip. I loosened and rotated the clutch and brake assemblies a few degrees and that made all the difference. I can see! |
