| Author | Message | ||
     Timi |
I have had a few (read often)problems with my bike. Ocasionally when I start the bike to ride, ill roll on the throttle and nothing!! About 1/3 twist the engine starts to accelerate as normal. But while driving the bike does this in all gears all the time! Doesn't change just makes it hard to opperate safely! After I ride to say the movies, ill start it up to go back home and it runs and opperates perfectly! I leave the bike on a batt tender in my garage when not riding. So its always has a full charge. No "engine light" no warnings, nothing to make me aware that the cpu is aware of this strange happenings. It just has a mind of its own. I've tried disco the batt to poss reset any faults but to no avail! I'm stumped. I haven't ohmed out the tps cause it opperates fine most of the time. This bike is my buddy its name is "Animal" and it lives up to its rep!! But this intermitant problem is often. But it goes away!!! Any help out there??? Should I (gulp) take it to a dealer and have it ckd out. Its fully under warr but its driving me crazy | ||
| Rsh |
Do you have the "noid" issue? This is the most resent post on the subject start here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/489162.html?1250813010 Even better: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=290431&post=1558238#POST1558238 (Message edited by blake on August 23, 2009) | ||
| Badlionsfan |
WHY WOULDN'T YOU TAKE IT TO THE DEALER!?!?! Of course something is wrong. Should have nothing to do with the noid. My GUESS would be tps needs reset or is bad, but why guess? Take it in and let them make it right for you. You don't want to have no throttle when you may need it to escape a dangerous situation. | ||
| Blake |
Try TPS reset yourself. Turn run switch to on. Turn key/ ignition to run. Twist throttle grip to maximum, hold for a second, then minimum, hold for a second, repeat back to maximum and minimum tow more times, turn off ignition/key. Turn on ignition/key. Use moderate pressure on throttle at stops in both directions. See if that helps. (Message edited by blake on August 22, 2009) | ||
| Doerman |
In addition to the above, and maybe you already know, make sure you let it warm up to the "cold" is done on the cluster. | ||
| Macchiato |
I've noticed this on two occasions in about 1000 miles the very same thing, WTF is that? | ||
| Blake |
Doerman, >>>make sure you let it warm up to the "cold" is done on the cluster. Me no understand. What mean "warm up to the 'cold' is done"? | ||
| Jmr1283 |
1125's display flashes cold before its warmed up and ive been told that the bike wont run right untill warmed up. i always wait so i wouldnt know. but the dealer's folk told me and they would know because im certain they dont wait. they said something about different fuel/spark maps. | ||
| Doerman |
Means.. there's a flashing "cold" on the IC. It will stop flashing when the CT reaches 150. So what I was saying was... - start it - DO NOT blip the throttle - Let it idle (spend the time getting your gear on and getting ready to ride), until the CT reaches 150F - ride off and have fun This procedure has worked very well for me for going on 21K miles | ||
| Blake |
So let it warm up until "Cold" is no longer displayed on the instrument cluster. Got it. | ||
| Timi |
Doerman Sorry I left that out. I promise all you guys I "warm her up" b4 I ride anywhere! Ill try the tps reset/home idea. But if this doesn't work ill deff tk 2 service. Noid issue? I'm no expert on that damn noid but its never given me probs. Ok 3rd gear doesn't seem yo torque as quickly as 1&2 but wth I'm not racing GXRS either. This is a hot street bike. Gets A LOT of attention ever since the first time I rode it! Its unique in the sportebike world and almost always has a croud around it. Its charicer (sp) is why I bought it in the first place. But the only bike I've ever owned that was fuel inj. So I'm all in the dark! I don't want to get all into the cpu and void my warr so this is obviously a weird prob and if she had mac-unis I bet she wouldn't do this! AND I could pour the fuel to her. But I don't think there is such a thing as 68mm carbs for bikes! Mabie a Holly 1250 Dominator carb! Well till you added some lean angle! Ha | ||
| Zac4mac |
Timi - been a while, welcome back. Fuel roll-on should be smooth and consistent. If you've had your airbox bottom off, pull it back off and check all the cables and linkages for interference. Remove the solenoid cable, it adds a good bit of drag to the throttle. Tie your throttle plates together also, so both open the same amount when you roll it on. Refer to the post from Puzzled that Blake linked to above, lotsa pix, great post. Zack | ||
| Crowley |
Your assuming the 'noid is operating correctly. My bike had almost identical issues which made it difficult to ride (and dangerous) when you were trying to balance it on the throttle. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong. This was in days before it became fashionable to de-noid the bikes. After a bit of research and investigating other export bikes that had the solenoid, I decided to disconnect the 'noid operating cable and everything was fine. Turned out the solenoid was faulty  I'm still waiting (and waiting,and waiting, and waiting  ) for a resistor to be sent from the European warehouse so I can get rid of the heavy piece of junk. I could've walked to Belgium and back from the UK in the time I've been waiting. |
