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Archive through August 20, 2009Jdugger30 08-20-09  02:25 pm
         

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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Well, I could get LESS mileage out of my tires if I tried, but who can afford that?"

Tru dat in 80ese.

I'm making half of what I made a year ago.
I was bummed I ONLY got 5k out of my last rear tire.

I dream of track days and burning up a set of tires in 1500 miles and being able to ride every day.
All at the same time.

At least I can say most of my WFO is at 30* or better lean.
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Chadhargis
Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I love the "Pace" technique.

I do much of the same when I ride on the street. I hate riding with guys who do the "squid seesaw" through the turns, unable to hold a line, then when the road goes straight, the run it up to a buck 30. Just stupid. I won't ride with them.

Riding on the street is a whole different ballgame than track riding. On the street, even if I KNOW the road really well and I KNOW I can make a specific corner at, say, 80mph....I dare not do it if I can't see all the way through the turn. Gravel, animals, cars, etc....just too much risk.

On really familiar roads, I'll make a sighting run and look for gravel and such, then blister it coming back.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess I've done the "pace" all along - I've never been one to open it wide out on the straights - at least not all the time : )

My reasoning, aside from not wanting a ticket or to, say, die... is that the faster you go, the faster you catch up to the slow moving car in front of you.
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Like2adventure
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I change my tires every 3k. (sticking with factory for road grip) I wear out the sides out on turns. The bike was made for corners. You can feel the high rubber when you roll out. Then it's time to do some hard breaking and a couple of burn outs to trash the tires. 12k on the bike and I still luv her!
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Thurstonbuell
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used my first set of Conti Sport Attacks , same or slightly more mileage than the OEM Corsa III's , more lean angle than I can use , I didnt have any chicken strips on the Pirelli's , but still some more useable shoulder to lean on with the Conti's.

Awesome wet/cold grip , VERY predictable slip or break away with the Conti's as well .

May just stick with these for my next set , just MO
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Xl1200r
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just ordered a pair of Pilot Power 2CTs, race stands and a no-mar bar. I'll get a balancer from harbor freight and still end up spending a good bit less than if I had my dealer do the job. I love the guys and they do good work, but they've never been good on tire prices.
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Metalrabbit
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put a set of Dunlop Qualifiers my '99VFR Interceptor to see what they're like. My '09 1125 is going to need something real soon too.

So far the Dunlops are perdy damn good. I'm going to raise the forks 10mm to see if I can get the Honda to turn in better and turn the wick up!
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> I'm going to raise the forks 10mm

To make a bike turn in more quickly, one generally lowers the front end vs the rear.
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Metalrabbit
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The forks go up which brings the front down. I didn't notice any "turn in" with the last tires but I could detect a slight one after putting these tires on.

Course all this is with the Honda,, the 1125 turns in real well when I get forward, down and tucked-in,, not always an
easy thing to do with my 57 yr old bod.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

10mm is an EXTREME adjustment. Suggest you try 5mm first and see how that feels.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh wait, you are talking about a more conventional geometry bike, a Honda. 10mm might not be so extreme in that case. Carry on.
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Redscuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"15000 km is like 5k miles...right? Lol

"That is insane. I went from 1/4 tread to past the wear bars in 1500 miles on the Corsas. There is no way dedicated performance rubber should be lasting more than 5k...let alone 10k"

Pics at 16,000 km, which is 10,000 miles. Shallowest groove / sipe at rear is 2.5 mm, which is about 3/32 inch. Lincoln's head is well and truly buried in it!

I'm a commuter and use the sides as much as possible within this limitation (we have roundabouts here, which improves the odds), so the pics show that there is double the tread depth on the sides.

Would go to 20,000 km easily (I do 500+ km weekly), but I have a plan for the tyres that involves using up all that extra sidewall tread!

fronts



rears
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Redscuell,
You must have a magical pair of Pirellis! There is no way you should be getting that kind of mileage out of that tire. That tire simply isn't designed to last that long.
ac
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got 15k miles out of my first front.
Then I slid out of the parking lot and bought a new front tire.
Cost me 110 for the tire and 240 for a pod and RevB clutch cover.

I still did better than most!

Z
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D_adams
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Km to miles conversion. 15,000 km = 9320.567883555 miles. Sure, the front will go that long on the highway, but the rear, I don't THINK so....
Red, I'm sorry, but I'll call BS on 15,000-20,000 km on the rear tire. Keep in mind that's just my opinion. I've NEVER seen a sport bike rear tire run that long. Sport TOURING, sure, sport, nahhhhh.
That tire looks almost exactly like mine did at about 3500-3700 miles, which made me order a new one.
My personal average on the Corsa 3's when commuting is only 4250 miles or so. No, the cords weren't showing yet, but they were definitely getting dangerous to ride on.
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Xbswede
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 03:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats about what my tires looked like down the center at 4700 miles. That was riding during the winer months on wet roads so very little aggressive riding.
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Buellerandy
Posted on Friday, September 04, 2009 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got 5k miles on the stock rear while it still had a lil tread left in the center. I didn't do any track days with it but I still hammer the twisties decently (for what Wi has to offer) so I know it would've only lasted me 3k at most if I were to be relocated say...to Georgia.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Friday, September 04, 2009 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got 5300 miles out of my Corsa II rear - plenty left on the front, but I changed them both.

10,000 miles on a rear seems a little pie in the sky...
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T_man
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got a question: The tire pictured above - would you take it onto the track for a track day?

Mine looks identical to that one (maybe 2000 miles on it) I used to race and take my TRACK tires onto the street when I was done with them - but never took a tire I used on the STREET onto the track.

I'm not sure if the 'street flat spot' will be a big problem or not when rolling in/out of corners - but I'm willing to try. It would be a shame to let these tires waste away without ever using them to thier full potential.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got a question: The tire pictured above - would you take it onto the track for a track day?

Any reputable track day operator will not let you on the track with that rear tire. Most specify having 50% or 75% tread life remaining.

As far as running a squared off tire, yes it will affect the handling of the bike. Just think how different (and nice) it is to get fresh rubber on the bike...it's so different it takes a little while to get adjusted to how fast and easy the bike wants to turn in.
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Avc8130
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The WHOLE point of me starting this thread was to emphasize how much better the bike handled with new rubber that wasn't sqaured off in the rear and pointy up front.

ac
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

new tires are also much stickier. Run the tire on the track for a couple of days, then run it on the street. You will end up with much more even wear and utilization of the tire.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

new tires are also much stickier.

+1. That's because the heat cycles of a worn street tire dry it out, I am assuming?
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure, but I do notice. I think your theory is a good one, though, because warmers supposedly help tires last longer.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They say that street tires are made for thousands of heat cycles, but I can't imagine that they are as good after 1,000 heat cycles versus brand new. They must degrade over time and heat cycles. I too notice the performance loss with worn tires.

Also, you made a good point about shaving some of the side rubber at the track to counter act the flat bottoming of street riding. After a few track days, my rear doesn't look nearly as obscenely squared-off as my non-track riding buddy's tires.
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T_man
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good points - all of them. I guess I'll be looking for some affordable race compound tires then! Too bad about my Corsa III's though... what a waste.
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

T-Man,

I run the Corsa III on the track. It's an excellent choice for a track day, IMHO.

I run a pace that in Heavyweight twins would put me just under the mid-pack mark in CMRA Novice class racing. And, the reason I'm not faster isn't the tires.

True DOT race rubber will not perform correctly without warmers. The Corsa III will do just fine.

If using the Corsa III, start with your pressures about 30/30, and measure the temp HOT, right off track. As your pace improves, aim for about 33/33 hot in pressure. I end up with about 27 to 28 cold, depending on season, but hot pressure is more important than cold with the Corsa III on track.

The Corsa III is a very, very good tire, and the 1125r is really happy shod with them.
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T_man
Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've only ever used race compound DOT tires & full-on slicks - at race pace... actually - is there ever anything other }than race pace when you've been there before and the juices start flowing again? Hahaha.. sheez! I guess the next logical question is; Do any racers on here have any leads on hot deals for race rubber?
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