| Author | Message | ||
     Andros |
I want to remove my rear wheel so i can mount a new rotor. Can some of you explain what steps needs to be done!? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Do you have the means to get the rear wheel off the ground? If so, do that. If not, find the means. Align rotor to allow removal of caliper bolts. Loosen axle pinch bolt. Remove upper belt guard. Loosen axle (reverse threads). Once belt goes slack, rotate wheel and disengage belt. Remove axle. Wheel is off. Reassembly is opposite...except there is a special torquing procedure for the axle. I don't have the values on me so I will not attempt to quote it. ac | ||
| Ccryder |
Andros: 1) Remove top and bottom belt guards. 2) Remove 2 bolts hold rear caliper and nest in swingarm recess. 3) Loosen/ remove pinch bolt 4) Support bike off of rear wheel 5) Support rear wheel (wood block) 6) Remove left handed rear axle 7) Heat right side of swingarm to loosen frozen threads. 8) Now remove axle. 9) Roll rear wheel slightly forward and remove belt and remove wheel. That should do it. Torque specs I don't have memorized. Neil S. | ||
| Andros |
Sweet!! Thank you! I really appreciate that. Does anyone have the torque specs for the pinch bolts and caliper bolts and axle?? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Oh, don't forget the Antiseeze! Otherwise you will need step 7 over and over again. ac | ||
| Andros |
Anti seize when i remount you mean? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Yeah, antiseeze the threads and the bearing areas. ac | ||
| Doerman |
Torque values: Caliper bolts: 18-20 lbs/ft Pinch bolt: 40-42 lbs/ft Axle bolt: tighten to 27 lbs/ft loosen back up again two full turns re-tighten to 48-52 lbs/ft The reason for the axle tighten/loosen/re-tight procedure is to properly seat the wheel bearings. | ||
| Andros |
cool little tutorial we got here then =) Thanx guys. how about the antiseize where can i get that? | ||
| Doerman |
Antiseize can be found in a store in Denmark that would be equivalent to this one: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessori es/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Oil,+F luid+and+Lubrication&fromType=accessories&fromStri ng=search&parentId=1312-10&filterByKeyWord=antisei ze¤tPage=1&navValue=100177&categoryNValue=10 1312&fromWhere=&itemId=177-10&displayName=Lubrican t/Grease. I am sure you have an equivalent store around København? | ||
| Andros |
Sweet! And do we need any special tools to remove the wheel? | ||
| Doerman |
Nope... A standard tool set will do. Now go to it Anders! Hilsen Asbjørn | ||
| No_rice |
i have yet to remove the rear caliper for any thing to do with changing the wheel. still havent figured out why its needed... and ive gone through ALOT of tires. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Only "special" tool is the axle tool in your tool kit under the passenger seat. ac | ||
| Spectrum |
Um well, I broke two cheap 3/8 ratchets doing rear wheel removal. Went to buy a breaker bar and found a 2 foot 1/2 ratchet so bought that instead. I no longer have a need for a breaker bar or replacing broken ratchets.  | ||
| Zac4mac |
I use a 7/8 combo wrench I "modified".   Z | ||
| Avc8130 |
Zac, Is that to get you enough leverage and still fit in the tool kit? Is 7/8 really the right size? I thought this was metric (22mm)...but with this bike we all know I have no clue where metric and where standard is used! At least this bike lets you use your ENTIRE tool box! ac | ||
| Ccryder |
7/8=0.875*25.4=22.225mm Yep that's the correct (close to) size for the axle adapter. In my tire changes over 25,000+ miles I have always used my electric impact to break loose the rear axle. Most times I still needed to apply heat even though I previously used never-seize on the threads, bearing areas, and pinch area. Just call me a wuss but that "breaker bar" 7/8" would not work for me. Instead I just throw a 1/2" ratchet in the Givi's (yep one reason to have bags). So now for the $64,000 question (if you can remember that far back), can you get that in the tool bag with all the tools that came in the bag? Time2Run | ||
| Zac4mac |
No it doesn't fit in the bag. I already have a tiny Leatherman in there and an extra Allen wrench - it's full to bursting now. The break-down 7/8 rests in the trough behind the battery. I also have a Metric Allen set, a bag of Teflon body screw washers, a bag of M6 fasteners, a roll of black tape, a T-27 and T-30 "screwdrivers" and a couple of rags. Fits the underseat tool area perfectly. Lots of "nooks & crannies". I am prepared to change my belt on the roadside if/when it pops. That's why I carry a spare belt under the rider seat where the Cali canister fits. Still running the belt Court sent me that rode, coiled up tight, under the seat for 2 months. Z | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
zac that wrench is brilliant | ||
| Court |
I use a Klein Canvas Bag under the seat in addition to the Buell kit. The tools that go in the bag, a wide array of t-handles, sockets, screwdrivers, tape, Ty-Raps and so forth are all marked with tape so that when I am working on the bike I know what remains on board and what goes back in the tool box. |
