| Author | Message | ||
     Xl1200r |
At some point, I saw a post someone had made about modifing the guts in the front sprocket (I think) that involved shimming the tolerances a little tighter so it doesn't feel like there's so much play in the drivetrain.... Anyone recall??? There were pictures and everything. | ||
| Clarkjw |
there is no play in the drive train. it's just the throttle cable IMO | ||
| Xl1200r |
This isn't a throttle cable issue. It feels like the primary chain is WAY loose, if it had one, which it doesn't. I remember seeing a post where someone had taken apart the cush drive unit and put some shims in there to take out most of the nuetral space. | ||
| Sparropie |
Is that adjustment on the handlebars? Or is it on the throttle body? y 1125 is really jumpy between throttle on and off... | ||
| No_rice |
its on here somewhere but i suck at implementing the search function. never can find what i want. i commented early on about how much slop there was. just like if the primary chain needed adjustment. it was messing with my off/on throttle when cornering. i never did do the shimming, just learned to compensate for it. but may still try something someday | ||
| Clarkjw |
my drive train is tight as a virgin's... | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Sparropie Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 05:21 pm: Is that adjustment on the handlebars? Or is it on the throttle body? y 1125 is really jumpy between throttle on and off... The cable adjustment is done at the adjuster nuts on the cable at the end of the metal piece at the grip. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
How about some clutch/throttle control? Just saying that it's possible to eliminate the lash in this manner. | ||
| No_rice |
How about some clutch/throttle control? Just saying that it's possible to eliminate the lash in this manner. yes it is. i was just originally surprised that my new refined 1125 had more lash then my old xb's ever had. but like you said it can be over come. | ||
| Orman1649 |
I have very noticeable slop in my drive train as well. It most definitely has nothing to do with the throttle cable. When I am cruising along, if I let off the throttle and slow down a little from the the engine's compression, I can feel/hear the slop bottom out. Then if I hit the throttle, I can feel/hear the slack get taken up....I don't know if that makes any sense but I don't know how to better explain it. If it was the throttle cable, it would have to be sticking in a different place every time and have an effect on both accel and decel. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I've noticed it on test rides with both the R and CR. What is weird, though is that the "lash" isn't consistent through the RPM range. You REALLY notice it if you are lugging around, but if the motor is spinning above 4500 there is much less to none. It's really bad if you are running it just above idle in gear and roll on and off. Feels like crap. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
You REALLY notice it if you are lugging around The obvious answer is not to lug around, however in spots where it is unavoidable the clutch can help immensely. This bike likes to stretch its legs. | ||
| Unibear12r |
You are talking about the "cush" compensator in the front sprocket. It's there to save Buell money on belt replacements. Yes there is some slop there. You REALLY notice it when you move up from an XB. | ||
| Unibear12r |
And it will get worse over time as it wears. It's a periodic replacement item. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
I noticed this since I took a test ride the first time. Since I was coming from an xb12r, it was very noticeable. I didn't mind and I still bought it. Now it bothers me a little when applying throttle coming out of the curves. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Luis, i am not some superior rider but you should be on the power as early as possible in a curve--if you are coasting and applying the power (when lash occurs) then you are asking for big problems as it certainly can upset the bike at just the wrong moment. Also, you tend to run wide if you are not driving thru the corner on the gas. Are you going into the corner too hot and not being able to roll on the throttle early enough? If so, lower your entry speed and concentrate on maximizing your exit speed. When I have things working right, I get on the throttle immediately after turn-in (immediately after slowly releasing the front brake) and keep the power rolled-on all the way--nothing like the drive out the corners on the 1125. It's truly impressive. (Message edited by fresnobuell on July 16, 2009) | ||
| Xl1200r |
How about some clutch/throttle control? Just saying that it's possible to eliminate the lash in this manner. Correction, it's possible to MANAGE it this way. This is what I have been doing, but it's annoying to have to. Like I said, there was a post where someone took the cush apart and shimmed it to take up a lot of the play. I appreciate the advice, but I'm not interested in "feather the clutch" - I already do that, but don't want to. | ||
| Ccryder |
I guess my wrist or my butt is not sensitive enough to notice the slack (even after 25,000 miles). Anyway there was someone that shimmed the compensator cushions with plastic shim stock. It can be taken apart and "shimmed". Search and yea shall find. Glenn, get real with your: " It's there to save Buell money on belt replacements." It is standard practice to have some sort of cushion hub on the drivetrain for belt, chain or, shaft. I thought it was pretty innovative that they put it in the counter shaft "sprocket" instead of adding unsprung weight to the rear wheel. Later Neil S. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I appreciate the advice, but I'm not interested in "feather the clutch" - I already do that, but don't want to. Ride the bike. Lash is a rare thing and a non-issue.  | ||
| Jaimec |
You'll notice it more when coming off of an XB, that's the truth. HOWEVER, if you ride your buddy's chain-driven superbike for a couple of days, then come back to your 1125R... suddenly it doesn't have ANY driveline lash...  | ||
| Ccryder |
It is all relative, and some have more lash than others. I do know that my ST1300 has much more lash than my 1125rt but even that does not bother me. Anyway, Time2Ride!! (Yeah I took a V-day today ;+} ) | ||
| Parrick |
I second the observation on excessive drive train slop. I have come to look at it as a training aid to better cornering technique but it seems to negate the advertised purpose of the belt drive system. My SV1000 is much smoother from decel to accel without feathering the clutch. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I did two test rides with customers today. I worked to create and alleviate the lash. Below 3500-4000 you notice some. Below 2000, you notice A LOT! Above 4,000, you have none. I kept it above 4000 throughout the turns and it was just like an XB without the cush drive. Problem solved. | ||
| Samcol |
This thread kind of goes along with the threads about trying to cruise smoothly at very low rpms imo. If it doesn't FEEL right you're probably doing something wrong or going against the overall design of the bike. Run it at higher rmps if it keeps the bike from surging/lugging/slapping. Keeping it above 4k whenever you can just feels right to me and I would bet that it's actually easier on the bike. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
There shouldn't be any shimming issues for the first 15-25k miles. And then its a maybe. DOHC V-Twin motors are sloppy on lower rpms. My Vrod is terrible, I mean horrendous at less than 3000. So bad I could use a gear before 1st. If you're not liking the slopply drive train, trying running a different sprocket. I changed mine out to a 26 tooth and I did pick up some performance on the lower rpm end. (Message edited by buellinachinashop on July 17, 2009) | ||
| Unibear12r |
I know it's had to tell tone on the internet, but that was not intended as a slam Neil.  It would also save us riders money too. And it was very Buell to put it in the front sprocket. But it is not a standard practice for Buell to use a compensator at all. In fact in their past models they were VERY proud to point out their bikes lack of power train slack. For them to now use one on their most powerful bike and no longer claim "zero lash" leads to one conclusion. This bike can be harder on belts!  | ||
| Ccryder |
"This bike can be harder on belts!" Yep you are correct on that! I can't say that I am hard on my bike but I play hard a couple of times a day, high and low rpm, light and heavy loading and (knock on wood) I have not had an issue in 25,000 s'miles. Will I change it out b4 it breaks, probably since I don't want to be left stranded. For me the cost of the belt is cheap insurance. I'll put the original under the seat or in my saddle bags for a spare. Time2Sleep Neil S. | ||
| Unibear12r |
Between the compensator, stronger belts, and the slipper clutch the belts on the 1125 shouldn't live any shorter than on the XBs. Whether its because of the higher horse power, or a greater expectation of squidly behavior (appeals to younger riders) or the engine (less smooth, lighter flywheel) making the compensator required I lament a little the loss of "zero lash". It was just way too cool. It's not a big thing with the 1125 because the lash is so small, far better than other makes, but its still there and very noticeable to XB riders. I would bet that the compensator winding up in the front sprocket was due to the very desirable ability to use all the current rear wheels on the 1125. Gives us greater choices and BMC lower development costs. The small unsprung weight savings is a happy bonus. Remember that BMC is made to mostly stand on it's own legs. As such they must put a great deal of thought into where pure quality is needed and where engineering will save them money. This keeps them in the business of building this kind of product for a reasonable price from what is such a small company. When everybody gets one dimensional and thinks everything BMC does is just for performance they deny half of BMC's genius. When I post that something saves them money I'm not saying they are trying to be greedy but smart. If they play smart right we all win in the long run. (Message edited by unibear12r on July 18, 2009) | ||
| Xl1200r |
Anyway there was someone that shimmed the compensator cushions with plastic shim stock. It can be taken apart and "shimmed". Search and yea shall find. That's exactly what I've been looking for with no luck, but I'll try again. Running the bike constantly over 4,000rpm is not reasonable to me in many areas that I ride. What this is coming down to is I've ridden enough bikes that have a lot less lash that I don't feel like I should have to compensate for the lash this bike has. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Found it! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/403796.html | ||
| Ccryder |
Have fun! | ||
| Dirty_john |
Gents, the 1125R is not designed to be ridden at low rpms, my firebolt was great for low rev riding but there is no way I am going to operate my 1125R at such low revs. The 1125R redlnes at nearly twice that of the Thunderstorm engine with totally different power characteristics. I like to enter a corner with a trailing front brake and then open the throttle up when going through the apex, just initially open the throttle slowly to take up any drive train play and then open the throttle further when this has occured, had to do this on my old motocross and two stroke roads bikes anyway, in the seventies and eighties we used to use the brakes and rear brake to control the way in which the suspension operated slowing down the fork rebound etc with the front brake worked a treat - ah happy days |
