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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through July 07, 2009 » 1125 cr handlebar kit « Previous Next »

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Gscrasher
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm a new CR owner. Really liking this bike, but have the handlebar kit and I'm planning to install it myself. I did a search but did not find any info about installing it. If anyone here has done this themselves, are there any gotcha's that I need to be aware of before I tear into it? I expect to get the service manual today.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Search.
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pay the money. Hour and a half of labor to reroute all the cables, etc...

Unless you have all the time to spare, and are really good with wrenches....

I can shade tree with the best of them, grew up on a farm, etc, but you might want to at least talk to your dealer about what it would cost.

R
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd do it were it not for the hydraulic clutch. That gives me pause.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can bleed brakes you can bleed a hydrolic clutch.
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It can't be that hard. You may need a second person to bleed the systems, or get yourself a Mighty Vac.
ac
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch is easier to bleed than brakes! I do mine with a simple $15 one-way valve. I fill from the top and pump through. It's worked well for both the 1125r brakes and clutch, and I do a lot of track time, so my hydraulics are getting a workout.

The trick with the clutch is to ever to slightly have the lever engaged as you are tightening the bleed valve. The work the lever a few times. This will cause the lever action to be very "there" and help take out the slack.

Don't be afraid... it's a pretty straightforward job. Again, if you have done brakes and got 'em right, I think the clutch is rather easy.
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Chadhargis
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fatty....come on now. You know I have that high zoot Vacula bleeder in my shop.

I can bleed the brakes and clutch for you in 10 minutes.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it bleeds like the brakes, cool. I just wasn't sure whether there was a special trick to the clutch or not.
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Chadhargis
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope....no special trick.

There is typically a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder end. You crack it open and apply suction.

Wow...that sounded really suggestive. Nipples...suction....humm....gotta get my mind out of the gutter.
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Ccryder
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I swapped out my longer lines I used a hand-held Miti-vac and it worked GREAT. Just don't suck too much out of the nipples and let things run dry ;+} otherwise you have to start over LOL

I'm outta Here!
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Gscrasher
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the comments. I was mostly interested in how hard it would be to disassemble down to where you could see the throttle bodies. I did get the manual and it doesn't look like much trouble. Tomorrow I hope to get to it and will post with the results of my labor. What's the problem with a little time spent massaging your new bike? Besides, I'm retired and this is one of my hobbies.
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Scubarc51
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its about a three beer job! Maybe four with a smoke break!
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Gscrasher
Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it took longer than I expected to put on the handle bar kit but I only lost one bolt for the seat, and broke one connector on the mirror wire.

For those who might be considering doing this, it is straight forward, I just like to go slow. The brake and clutch lines don't require any removal of body parts.

The throttle cables require removal of the top plastic cover, an inside plastic cover, the air filter and the base plate that holds the air filter over the throttle bodies. Those babies are awesomely large!

Anyway, after a first ride, it was worth the effort. I had also changed out the pegs for 1 inch lower jobs.
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